WANTED: complete 6th gen engine

Hi all,

I am looking for a complete 6th gen engine, I am willing to take the whole bike if the price is right. I dont care for is the bike is all there (wrecked bike) just as long as the engine runs.

I have a project that requires the use of another engine. Since I can not use the engine in my bike for this, obvious reasons apply. Dont want to melt my engine down by accident if I dont have to.

Let me know what you guys find

Thanks

 

Here ya go

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mpo/4340527469.html

 

Decent price, 2days drive to go get and 2days back. . . .
I look into it. Keep them coming.

 

Yah you are kinda close to nothing way out there is Saskatchatoon. I'm thinking that no matter what we find, you will be shipping it. But we'll keep looking for ya.

 

Im actually very close to scobey Montana. Problem is trying to ship across the border these days is getting to be a nightmare!

 

I hear you loud and clear. The 10% exchange rate combined with the random way in which shipped items arrive up here has really put a damper on cross-border shopping. I still buy but I have it shipped to the border so I can personally go down and import it. I've seen items shipped UPS that cost $80 in brokerage when the part was only worth $50!

 

I got a motor but it has between 0 and 60psi compression on piston #4 and burns 1 quart of oil every 500 miles

 

#4 needs rings and possibly valves....what did you to the poor thing? Does it consume coolant or just oil? Thats important as it tells me if something is badly damaged.

Ill only take a badly damaged one on very select terms because I will have to put project money into rebuilding the test bed.

 

It is actually a VERY low mileage motor. I bought the bike used with 2.5k miles and it was like that when I bought it. No coolant consumption, just a broken ring or badly damaged piston or god forbid a cracked head. I plan to rebuild it and bore it out later. Keep in mind a rebuild for this motor is $500 in parts minimum, while a used motor off ebay is $600 (I should know I just bought one). I was mostly joking but if you want it I will sell it to you.

 

rc

It is actually a VERY low mileage motor. I bought the bike used with 2.5k miles and it was like that when I bought it. No coolant consumption, just a broken ring or badly damaged piston or god forbid a cracked head.

 

Tink, you only want to see the vid of it melting down!

Fantastic,
2.5k miles I would say rings or head. Still not that bad. Rings are a pain due to having to pull both jugs but not impossible. Pm me with a price and we will talk. Maybe work a very good deal out of it.

For those now following:
This project is to see what it takes to make the 800 a dream engine. I propose to see what it takes without boring or stroking the engine to squeeze more power and better response out of this engine. I am currently trying to hack into a stock ecu to make it programmable. So far this is not working, I do have an iron in the fire with a AEM associate that is considering donating or severly reducing the cost of an aftermarket ecu.

Reasons of why:
Obvious answer. . . Because I want to
But also, of all the things the vfr is, I still hate the conservative programming in the ecu. And I feel that a pc-v is not the right way to go. I have a turbo that is meant for this size of engine, the pc-v cant control it but an ecu can. Turbo vfr anyone?
I already have the throttle body adapter casting molds made and will be casting a set as soon as it stops being colder than a mofo here. Im currently sourcing an intercooler, looking at liquid cooled for reasons we can argue later. The turbo I have is a gt1241. This is both water and oil cooled so it is perfect for this application. But that is not the goal. Goal one is to reprogram an ecu to make a better engine.
Goal 2 is to squeeze all the power I can out of it.
goal 3 is to turbo a bike just for the fun of it

 

Lately I've been thinking about disabling the V-Tec on my 6th gen so all the valves function all the time. I mean seriously, they took a four valve engine and tied one hand behind its back by disabling one intake valve, which they reactivate under certain conditions to give you a boost in performance. It's a silly game which they call "variable valve timing" but they never really alter the timing of the cams. It adds complication and weight to the bike for what? A tiny improvement in fuel economy down low. If I wanted fuel economy I would be driving a Nissan Leaf for gods sake.

So with my rant over, I wonder what the 6th gen would feel like if the fourth valve was engaged all the time? I would be pretty simple to bypass the V-TEC solenoid to engage that valve and find out. A more permanent mechanical solution may be worth looking at too but I'm leaning towards the KISS method at the moment. I'm also looking at doing this on my Civic SI to see how she runs.

 

The reason for disabling the valve is to give a better fill rate for the cylinder. Having all four valves operating will not give you any better performance in the lower rpms.
You can try it, but its my opinion that it wont help and may hinder.
My plan at this time is to give the vtech a two stage apply. Since its oil pressure activated, how about giving the vtech valve a command to only close part way. This would increase the pressure and start that port valve opening. As the rpm get closer to the full engagement point just keep closing the vtech valve until it is fully engaged. This spread to engagement would improve the flat spot infront of the vtech engagement point and thus a smoother vtech engagement.
Actually advancing the cams and being able to retard them would be a way better setup, add lots of weight and complexity. Vvct like what is on my 2.0t genesis coupe is fairly simple but again requires a lot of extra parts. So the performance gain is negated by the weight.

With a turbo, vtech could be engaged as soon as manifold pressure reaches 2 or so pounds, it must wait until the turbo creates enough boost because as soon as that valve opens the flow rate will jump and pressure must fall to balance.

This whole thing presents some very interesting challenges. I havent even come close to thinking of every thing im going to try. But I do know that the exhaust temps are going to be the li.iti g factor.

 

As I understand it at Partial throttle 2 valves is more effective at lower rpm and at full throttle you only spend a second or two below vtec range when launching in first.

 

I'm aware that the single intake valve flows adequately to fill the combustion chamber during low demand and the reduced area will also speed up the charge and aid in mixing the air/fuel mixture. It works, but does it improve torque or fuel efficiency over a four valve head? If it does, the improvement is so small I didn't feel it when I switched from a 5th gen to a 6th gen.

The 2000 model year VFR produced 105 HP and 75 Nm torque @ 8500
http://www.mbike.com/honda/vfr800/2000

The 2002 model year produced 109 HP and 80 Nm torque @ 8700 rpm
http://www.mbike.com/honda/vfr800/2002

I don't have a dyno chart to compare but it looks like the 5th gen made similar numbers without the worry of Vtec engagement.


Regarding the two stage engagement,

Unfortunately the valve is engaged with a pin the connects the rocker arms together so its either engaged or it isn't so I don't think you can do what you suggest.

http://takemebeyondthehorizon.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/vtec.gif

 

You still have to think about the flow of air and its inertia. The physics of fluid dynamics (yes air is a fluid, all gasses are) are very important to engines. Since they are nothing more than pumps we have to consider how best to keep the intake air moving fast enough to fill the chamber more completely and how at faster engine speeds to ensure that same fill rate without changing the intake air speed. Once the fill rate surpasses unity then it no longer matters as we can not put any more air into that cylinder. Now we change to a boosted system where unity is surpassed very easily and we can pressurize that cylinder. This over charge allows more fuel to burn and thus creates a higher bdc pressure. The goal is more power at as large of band as we can get.

I know this is above most peoples heads so please dont be afraid to ask questions. I will do my beat to explain it in (now dont be offended) simple terms. If you want to add or correct please do, I encourage the sharing of knowledge in a constructive way.

Now before asked, the pair system will not be used and will be blocked off. Im not interested in emissions control for these tests, I dont even have the ability to test emissions other than o2 content at my home.

 

I have a good running 6G engine that was removed to install a 5G engine in the frame.

I am in Georgia and not sure what shipping would run you. Send me a pm and let me know how much of the other components you want (fuel injectors, airbox, etc...) and maybe we can reach an agreement on price.

 

That sounds like a winner to me!