New gauge faces.

Not sure. You have to look at it as two assemblies. The gauge face and needle stop are together, and the needle and needle mounting pin thing are the other.

Removing the screws allows the gauge face to be lifted off, but you can't really move it without removing the needle.

If you're that concerned with seeing where the needle goes before removing everything I think your best bet is to just very carefully try to remove the needle stop from the front face. If you're careful enough hopefully you won't break the clips.

Hope this makes sense. It wasn't difficult to take the whole thing out to the bike before putting it back together so you can apply power allowing you to properly place the needle back on.


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Mounted the new gauges with integrated voltmeter

I think my rpm needle is slightly off. Would need dismantle it all over again




thanks Anik

 

Based on the excellent first post by VFRkat and some other research, I decided to give this a shot. Gauges faces are the same, just search Ebay for them. Lights are red LEDs from superbrightleds.com. These specific ones are part number WLED-R-120. All 5 bulbs are the same, and I removed the blue filter from the LCD panel. I think it looks pretty nice.



Biggest annoyance is that even after messing with it a couple times the tach needle is still about 500 RPM high. If I care enough I'll start it and set the RPM with the idle adjuster to 2K using the Power Commander and a laptop. Then I'll set the needle at the 2K mark. I honestly don't know if the speedo is off, or if it's really worth the trouble of taking it all apart again.

 

Looks great. How did you remove the blue filter from the LCD panel? Was it hard to get at? I looked briefly while I had it all apart but didn't see easy access. Removing this I'm sure would brighten the red in the display a bit. Thanks for sharing.

 

I followed Anik's thread over on VFRD. Post #15 contains this picture, which I have added the red circles to, but it's Anik's original. You remove those 6 screws and an obvious connector on the front, and the LCD unit comes off the rest of the cluster.



Once it's out, you'll see the whole thing is held together by 4 tabs from the metal surround. They go through slots on the PCB and are twisted slightly so they lock the whole mess into place. Carefully twist the tabs so they re-align with the slots and you can pull the whole stack off the PCB - the LCD, filter, diffuser, and metal surround. Make sure you keep the orientation of all the parts the same and just unstack until you get to the filter, then put it back together without it. Align the tabs with the slots in the PCB, squeeze everything together firmly, and re-bend the tabs to lock into place.

I worked very gently with all of it since I wasn't sure how much abuse it would take. I also put it in upside down the first time, but that just meant the display was garbled and I needed to flip it over. All in all it was tedious and I was worried about messing it up, but it wasn't really difficult.

 

Hey thanks! I'll get at this sometime in the summer.

 

I have still get the rpm needle realigned. It is off by 300 rpm. My OCD wants to get it fixed.


thanks Anik

 

Had a bulb go out in the LCD so I pulled it apart and took out the blue screen today. Wow, made a nice difference in the shade of red coming through as well as the brightness is a little better. Thanks for the info.


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I would like to change my gauge faces also, but can't seem to find them in MPH. Does anyone have a source? Venoxy says they don't make them for a Gen5 in MPH.

 

Ooohh. These might be nice also. I might weaken and do this. Already did LED dash ligting, but I would be willing to tear it apart again and put these in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gen5-Honda-...-01-/121682359277?hash=item1c54d573ed&vxp=mtr

 

Hi guys.
I know this is an old post, but I changed my speedo plate to km/h one, and I too had problems with the needle... I managed to push it in when the power was applied to the cluster. Pushed it in so it rests on the back stop pin. When you turn the key, needle does not float or move which is good. Then I removed the little back stop and took the key out. Needle went anti clockwise few degrees which is correct. Then turn the key without back stop and needle is right at 0. However, took my very accurate camera with gps and pointed at the speedo while riding at constant speeds of 50, 60 and 100. Unfortunately at 100km/h (gps) shows 117km/h, at 67 km/h(gps) shows 80 on the clocks... So I am average 15km/h off... Have to take it apart now again and test with my gps. The reason I am writing this is that your readings might be incorrect. I also followed friends car, and when he got 50km/h and I have 50km/h he was moving away from me...

 

After many tries, I never could get mine adjusted correctly. Gave up trying. I now use a Speedo Healer to get it exact.

 

Thank you for your reply. Yes , I was looking at this healer tool, but spending 100 euro just to use it once... eh... Don't know. Anyway, could you please tell me how much time did it take you to fix this issue with speedo healer? Did you have to take much apart of the bike?

 

Most bikes have a speedo error, but your current error does seem a little excessive (my guess it should be between 5-7% off depending on the bike. This can only be truly fixed with a speedo healer, which you have to leave permanently connected.

 

Yep, it is excessive because I was rebuilding entire front end including clocks, dashes etc... Tried to put the needle in the correct place but after so many attempts I gave up... If I don't find service where it can be done for like 50 euro then I have to buy speedo healer...

 

It plugs in line with the speedo output on the front gear. Stays in permanently.

 

I don't know enough about needles and speedos, but the indicated error is not likely linear. One would have to know at what speed one would want it correct, say at 100 kph, then attempt to place the needle correctly for that.. On the other hand, a SpeedoHealer compensates the signal to the ECU, so when the correction factor is programmed in, it will be correct for all speeds.

 

So it stays in for ever under your seat or whatever? No perm fix like reprogram something etc, it has to be constantly connected. Not an option at the moment

 

Yeah, I had GPS (proper one) on the bike with camera recording, and kept riding at different speeds for 1min non stop. 20 readings calculated average difference of 13.95km/h or 15.2%. I took clocks apart, and needle goes anticlock wise when no power to the cluster, then goes back in place (wherever you set it;-) when power is back on.

 

The Speedo Healer is the programmed module, it just modifies the "pulses" going to the ECU, by the factor you program in, thus making it display correctly.