advice on buying an older (non VTEC) VFR please

Hi, after trying quite a few different bikes and discovering the VFR800 make me smile the most(!) I'm looking out for a non-VTEC VFR800. I've seen a few, with mileages varying from 13k to 50k, some with service history, some without much history at all.. I've also had a few wasted journeys viewing neglected bikes listed as 'excellent!'. I'm new to bikes (but pretty good with old Saabs - especially 9000s!) and would be really grateful for any advice on what to look for on an older VFR? What kind of things need replacing and at what kinds of miles, and what kind of work really needs doing vs what is nice to do? Is being serviced every 4k enough or does a VFR need more if not being used much? I'm in the UK, which is not the driest climate, so most the bikes will have been in the wet and damp!

Many thanks.

PS, if you are in the UK and have a really nice VFR you might want to sell, please get in touch! :smile-new:

 

Well.. coming from a slightly wetter climate, I would check the exhaust downpipes..they tend to rot and can be expensive to replace (if they have been replaced with stainless then you're quids in..). Beside that, the normal consumables (fork seals, C&S, bearings, etc..). This is the site I use locally to buy/sell, and here is one to start.. not mad about the colour..

http://www.donedeal.ie/motorbikes-for-sale/honda-vfr-800/6600226

 

I wouldn't be scared by mileage. I'm in Australia so moisture and salt aren't issues at all but my bike has just clocked 160,000km (100k miles). I have replaced one oil seal (apart from normal consumables) in the 40,000 that I have had it. I have still never added oil in between services. General rule of thumb is replace oil once a year if it isn't being used much, but a well-used and well maintained bike is better than a low mileage bike that has been neglected. Good luck.

 

I can give you this advice about the 5th gen models:

-Regulator/Rectifier is a must replace IMO. Also check connections to the R/R for any burning/melting due to faulty R/R causing over-voltage issues. If any lights are burned out, that's a potential indicator of R/R issues

-Steering head stem bearings will probably need replacement after 30,000 miles. Many replace with roller bearings for longer life

-Valves have to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, too. This is a pricey maintenance item if done by a shop

-If a lot of miles on the bike, shocks may need to be looked at for refurb.

Anything else would just be normal motorcycle maintenance stuff (i.e., brakes, oil changes, etc.)

 

Tips for a used motorcycle inspection….all these can be done as part of a walk around with no tools except a volt meter and a flashlight.

1) I would check the charging voltage at idle and 5K RPM with the high beams on. It should be at lease 13.8V or you have some charging issues. It is easy to do with a voltmeter, just remove the seat. Check the forum there are plenty of threads on charging issues on the VFR
2) Obviously check tires, brakes, chain, brake and clutch fluid color. The fluids should be clear. If they look like tea or coffee they need to be replaced. Wear or replacements items are good negotiating points.
3) With the bike on the center stand, have someone push down on the rear and lift the front wheel off the ground. Turn the wheel left and right and feel for binding or a notch at dead center. This is a sign that the bike needs new head bearings. I have had to replace bearings at 20K miles on some VFRs. Check the fork seals – look for oil on the fork tubes.
4) Obviously, check the overall condition of the finish and look for missing or non OEM fasteners or new panels or missing decals. Look for scrapes on the end of the clutch and brake levers, bent shifter and brake foot levers, bar end weights, and on 5th gens look for a black block off plate on the underside of the fairing between the headlights. A missing plate or scrapes indicated a fall or accident.
5) Arrive when the bike is “cold”. It should start easily, idle well and be ridable without requiring any warm up.
6) Finally look in the tank for signs of rust – use a flashlight
7) Not to go to CSI on you – but bring a flash light when you inspect the bike. A good light will help with the inspection.
8) Make sure you get the factory tool kit. Most of the wrenches and screwdrivers are poor quality but you will need the chain adjusting tool and the shock adjusting tool. Ask for the owner’s manual. It doesn’t hurt to ask if the PO has a shop manual. He might throw that in as part of the deal. Oh, and get both keys.

If this is not your first bike you probably know most of this. Good luck with you purchase.

 

I have had two 5th gens, and ive had to replace the exhaust (collector box rot) clutches in both (only cheap tbh) reg recs a buggers for going so check that its charging and see if the lights are dimming (put all of the lights on) other then that as long as they're in good condition you'll be fine, usually the more you pay the better you'll get, a 99 s plate with 3k on the clock in immaculate condition went on ebay this week for £3900, i paid £1150 for the one i own now with 24K and i have spent £380 full delkevic exhaust system, £55 on a clutch, £190 full give luggage, £50 service and brakes, £25 heated grips, £180 a pair of bt016 tyres (triple compound) and its a great bike all-round.

 

Guys, thanks very much for your advice. I'll make sure I look at all those points. Hopefully I'll find a good one in time for the summer!