2004 VFR 800 Basic Maintenance Related Questions

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by faran, Oct 9, 2014.

  1. faran

    faran New Member

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    Hi Guys-

    As you guy know that I recently acquired a 6th Gen VFR.

    Now doing all fluids change and other sorts of work. Finished doing Coolant, engine oil, chain cleaning, clutch fluid and brakes today.

    Have few questions about brakes and air filter.

    For brakes, I just followed the instructions, couple of questions I have:

    1- With front lever only two front bleeders are bled, correct?

    2-With rear lever and front left caliper cylinder bleeder close to battery is bled?

    3- Both Rear bleeders are bled from rear brake ONLY?

    4- Front left center bleeder is bled from rear brake again?

    Please see pictures of my brake pads(first two rear and last for front) and advise if they need replacement, plus rear brake is hanging out of caliper and front both are locked. How to put them back?

    Also, look at air filter and advise if I should replace it or just blow air and put it back. Thank you.
     

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  2. xorbe

    xorbe New Member

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    Hold the air filter up to light. Can you see through it?
     
  3. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks for a good tip, going to follow it.

    What about brake bleeding sequence and pads?
     
  4. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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  5. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thank you, I have already sent him a text. He is very very helpful and knowledgeable.
     
  6. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    Replacing the pads when the grooves in the pad face are no longer visible is a good rule of thumb. If you have a brake thickness gauge or other means of measuring the pad material 2 mm or less is also a good time to replace pads.

    photo 3.jpg

    If your a hard core canyon carver or you do track days you may want to replace your pads sooner. As the pads become thinner more heat will transfer through the pad & into the caliper. This really isn't a problem for the average street rider though. Anytime your brakes are apart & your going to reinstall the old pads, hit the pad face with some sandpaper to help remove any glazing & foreign contaminates. Also hit the rotor with a Scotch Brite pad for the same reason. Make sure the braking surfaces are clean, always have a can of brake clean in your garage.

    There's a spring type clip that sits in the caliper. If that isn't seated properly the pads won't fit in the caliper.
     
  7. faran

    faran New Member

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    I am just a street and weekend rider. Looking at these pads and grooves, roughly how many miles they have on them? If it's few hundred to thousand, I'll prolly replace them and if you think they can last for 5000-10,000 miles, I'll just install them back.

    What would be a good guestimate for both rear and front one? Thanks
     
  8. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    Everybody is different so how many miles are on em or how long they will last is questimate at best. The first two pic's are hard to see so if you can get a better pic that would help. For the pic of the pads in the caliper I would make sure the pad surface is clean & wouldn't hesitate to reuse them. I've got an 07 VFR that I bought new & recently changed the brake fluid on. The pads were very similar in thickness to the ones you have pictured (pic #3). At the time they had 21k on em.

    For a comparison on my Suzuki also an 07, has 35k on it. Original front pads are still in it. The pads still have good material on them, but have lost their effectiveness. I'll finish the season with them but they will be replaced next season regardless of thickness.
     
  9. faran

    faran New Member

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    I bought the bike used with nearly 34k miles on it. I guess/think, these pads are original but I might be wrong.

    Please see picts attached, all these 3 pictures are for the rear pads from different angle.

    BTW, how much all of these '3' cost?
     

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  10. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    Expect to pay on average $35-45 for a set of name brand pads. Thats per caliper. You can find some cheaper on ebay. Theres about a million threads on pads here, but most will recommend a sintered HH rated pad.

    The rear pads are noticeably thinner than the fronts but still IMO have life in them. I live in Mass & we have about 8 weeks, maybe 10 (fingers crossed) of riding season left. I would clean & reuse those for the rest of the season. Then consider replacing them in the spring sometime. If I lived in an area with a year round riding season I would still reuse those. But keep an eye on em. However "peace of mind" can be priceless. If you feel like those pads don't have adequate stopping power then replace them. Or if your just not comfortable with them because of their age or unknown history replace them.

    Heres a link to an article from Motorcyclist magazine about different pad types: Stop Tech
     
  11. faran

    faran New Member

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    Thanks, now real question for the rear pad is how to put it back? Since piston is touching other pad which is still inside and there is no way I can put this hanging pad inside it.

    Your advice sounds pretty solid and brakes are definitely solid at the moment and I don't feel any difference, will replace after riding for sometime and next season.
     
  12. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    You mentioned in your first post about bleeding the brakes has that been done yet? The reason I asked is that some people will crack the bleeder to relieve the back pressure created when collapsing the pistons into the caliper in this situation. Of course with the LBS on the VFR brake bleeding is PITA! I've also done a method with a power bleeder but that requires shop air. If your limited to basic hand tools you're going to have to wedge something between the pad face & piston to force the piston beck into its bore. Keep in mind the brake pads are replaceable. So I would try & work something in between the pad & piston. If you damage the pad its no big deal its replaceable. Another option is to push on the backing plate of the pad thats in the caliper. It doesn't take much force to move the pistons. If the caliper is in good shape it can be done by hand. There are specialized tools for collapsing pistons provided theres clearance. Most people will use a screwdriver. Keep in mind once the pistons retract the fluid level in the master cylinder will rise. If its full you'll have to drain some out 1st.
     
  13. faran

    faran New Member

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    Yes, I have bled the brakes and coffee color brake fluid came out. Is this sequence and assumption about bleeders right?

    For brakes, I just followed the instructions, couple of questions I have:

    1- With front lever only two front(left upper and right) bleeders are bled, correct?

    2-With rear lever and front left brake caliper cylinder, bleeder close to battery is bled?

    3- Both Rear bleeders are bled from rear brake ONLY?

    4- Front left center bleeder is bled from rear brake again?

    If all these '4' assumptions are right then I bled it in the right way and order. If not, please advice and will correct it.

    If above all is right, then I just need to put calipers back and that's it.
     
  14. faran

    faran New Member

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    Is the sequence and steps I mentioned above are accurate? If so, I'll just try to put the pads back on and tighten everything up.
     
  15. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    Without looking in manual that sounds right. The reason I mentioned bleeding was if your have to crack open the bleeder(s) on the rear caliper to collapse the piston(s). If you did that you would have to bleed the brakes again. Now if I'm understanding you correctly the rear caliper has one pad in it with the pistons extended. Preventing you from installing the other pad & reattaching the caliper to the bike. Yes?
     
  16. faran

    faran New Member

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    I haven't touched any bleeder yet after doing the brakes.

    Yes, I am struggling with one 'middle' piston on the rear.

    It's not ready and willing to move, while other two I can compress with my hands. See attached pict, if I can compress one in the middle can put the pad back and install the caliper.
     

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  17. Arnzinator

    Arnzinator New Member

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    If you didn't properly relocate the rear caliper during bleeding, that could be why the center piston is extended. Heres a link to a very good procedure for bleeding the VFR's brakes: DIY: Bleeding Linked Brakes w/ABS (The Ultimate Guide)

    If you can't get the center piston back in. You may have to open the center bleed screw to collapse that piston. Have something ready to catch the fluid. You'll have to bleed that portion of the brake system again. Make sure you relocate the rear caliper as shown in the procedure above.

    Sometimes when a caliper piston extends fully it can become misaligned. You may have to work it from side to side to walk it back into its bore.
     
  18. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    Use a flat plate insert between the caliper and press them all down at the same time.
    If the center won't go back down you might have to take them apart and clean them up.
     
  19. faran

    faran New Member

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    How can I bring the other two out? As you can see from the pict one is sticking out and rest two are way in?

    I exactly followed the same tutorial and instructions. Just making sure about using front and rear levers, since I don't have ABS brakes.
     
  20. DfnsMn69

    DfnsMn69 New Member

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    Where on earth do you live Faran the backing plate and bolt look like they have been living in salt water for a decade. If I were you I'd do a VERY serious rust and corrosion inspection on the wiring and the rest of your bike..
     
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