Headlight Bulb Replacement Options

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Jack Bauer, Jan 13, 2015.

  1. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Not yet, everything is stock, new, and balanced. Got other priorities first, like a set of lowered foot pegs.
     
  2. Crashcup

    Crashcup New Member

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    I'm curious if anyone knows what the "ballast" in these kits does? With HID lights, as I understand, the ballast is like a step-up transformer because they're an arc light that runs on thousands(?) of volts. But LEDs run on small DC voltages. Just wondering why a "ballast" is needed.
     
  3. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    According to my '14 Honda Service Manual, it is called a LED Driver, "Contains a voltage booster circuit, constant current circuit and Hi/Lo switching circuit to turn the light on or off depending on the switching input"

    I would assume after market replacements are similar in design (except for switching).
     
  4. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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  5. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Hmmm, since it is already DC, don't why the call it a rectifier, maybe they need to re-rectify voltage after stepping up!
     
  6. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    Rectifier option is for dirt bike folks rolling with AC power.
     
  7. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Your right, missed that the rectifier was extra. That makes more sense.
     
  8. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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  9. Alfadiablo

    Alfadiablo New Member

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    Let me know how that goes Red, really considering upgrading my headlight to them LED bulbs too, seeing that I've already order the LED taillight and Indicators, might as well vamp the headlights up :smile:
     
  10. Crashcup

    Crashcup New Member

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    Makes sense, Ally. In playing around with electronic circuits, I was used to seeing only the LEDs with only 3.3V - what they call forward voltage - the voltage required to turn the LED on. But after a little more searching, I see there are LED packages with higher forward voltages... I saw up to 64V. I guess the kits for vehicles must use LEDs with voltages higher than 12V, so some step up is needed.
     
  11. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    alright, I'm actually pulling those 80w LEDs from the main housing on the cage. too much glare, even aimed down, light is still scattering everywhere. Low beam swoops up at the sides. Might be due to the domed style of the LEDS. I like them in the fog housing though.

    For the bike I would stick with the lifetime style ones that have the built in rocker reflector. even though they're a lower lumen outpuyt, those at least seem to have a better controlled beam with a decent cut off.
     
  12. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    this will be my last update regarding these LED bulbs. stick with the "lifetime" style with the rocker reflector. It actually makes a huge difference. After my failed experiment with those brighter but domed LEDs in the cage, I installed a set of the rocker reflector ones like I installed in the fifth gen. HUGE difference. Even though they aren't as bright overall as some of the non-reflector kits the light is much better controlled. The light is actually whiter than those new brights linked on the previous page.

    Just the fact that the low beam cutoff was very close to the stock Halogen position tells the whole story, I barely made any adjustments if at all to the housing. Pointed it a bit more down just to be safe. With the domed style LEDs the housing was adjusted way down due to the amount of glare.

    so bottom line, if you want to install an LED kit, go with the ones that have the non-domed LED recessed surrounded by the rocker reflector. best design out there at the moment.
     
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