Touch up kit vs. Aftermarket fairings?

Hey guys, I just recently bought a 2005 vfr ABS in Italian red and I am trying to make it look pretty again. I have looked into aftermarket fairings and from what I have read here on the forums, the fitment is never quite right and there are decal issues, color runs, and clear coat runs. I would like to get a set that looks like the stock candy apple from 2007 though, something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Glossy-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d5394251c&vxp=mtr . I'm not sure if its worth the money though with all the issues I've heard of.

The other option would be to get a nice colorrite kit, which from what I have read here does a pretty good job. My question to you guys is if the color rite kit would work well on the scratches and blemishes I have (pictures below), and if any of you have any experience with some hong kong fairings as of late. Maybe the fairings have gotten better over the years? Thanks

This area I suppose would be covered by the stock seat, but the sargent seat is a bit shorter I guess.

Normal rock chipping.

This is where the bike was supposedly dropped in a parking lot. its the only damage I could find on that side.

This one was on the gas tank. He must have dripped something that ate all the way down to the metal.

This last picture here is just an example of some light scratches that are all over the bike. Would a touch up kit fix these? or would a good waxing do the job?

 

The Chinese fairings are of poor quality. Noticed that included is a "tank cover". Read the ad carefully. It is not clear if the price includes shipping... Hardware is not included.

Your current fairing parts unless there is unseen structural damage, looks to be OK. Some of those scratches can be buffed out. Not a lot of fun if one is capable, An established auto detailer may be of help. A Honda automotive dealer that has used cars can probably recommend someone. An inexpensive random orbit bonnet buffer and some fine rubbing compound will not cost an arm and a leg if DIY is in the mix..

There are some nicks to be addressed. The wear spot on the tank looks to me like a strap on tank bag was used. Colorite is good stuff. Buy the smallest amount you can and a couple of good brushes and some reducer. Ride the bike until next winter then do a repaint. The touchup spots will not match perfectly. The current red has faded. It will be close but not perfect. To get a candy color right should be done by a pro. Candy paintjobs are not cheap they require lots of prep/labor and the paint itself is expensive.

First order of biz would be to take care of that missing paint on the tank. The tanks are steel. Once oxidation sets in rust will occur under the paint.

 

That wear on your rear cowl, behind the seat, is a common problem. Whether you are running stock seat or Sergent does not matter. The wear is caused by the seat cowl rubbing there. The rear seat cover will wear down its rubber pads in very short order and scrape away like what haas happened on your bike.

A cheap simple solution to that is to apply those felt bumper pads in that spot, under your seat cowl. Apply it far enough under so that it does not show on the outside. Every couple year or even every year, you may need to put new felt on there but for th 2.3 cents per pad that it costs, I don't think you will loose you home over it. You can get these everywhere from hardware stores to the grocery stores.

BTW. That is some rock chip up front there. Good thing that did not hit the visor.

 

I used the touch up paint some wet sanding and some polish to blend and was very happy with the results. .patience and some elbow grease go along way

 

Hey, thanks everybody for all the advice. I believe I have decided to order the tough up kit and give it a try. I might be able to use my uncle's buffer as well to clean up any mild clear coat scratches. Hopefully I can get the bike looking close to cherry again. I'll pick up some felt pads too for the cowl. I'll post pictures after all the work is done if anyone is interested.

 

I'm no pro detailer, although I did my share of that many moons ago. But, I will say that all of my vehicles look pretty damn good by using the following tactics. I usually use Meguiars products. Reasonably priced, and they work well. But use what you want.

I'll guarantee you that with some patience and a little elbow grease your paint will be looking like new. OK, not like new since its 10 years old, but it'll look worlds better.

Wash the bike for the first time using dish detergent. This will actually break down the greases and waxes that have accumulated on it. For future washes, dish detergent is terrible to use. Buy something designed to wash cars with.

Get a clay bar kit. $15-$20 at Walmart. It'll last you a while. Watch a video on the Google if you haven't used one before, but its very simple. You can use it on any paint, as well as headlights and taillights. Result are amazing. It'll pick up all the tiny little pieces of invisible dirt. Run your hand over the paint before and after, and you'll see.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/16386193

You can use a light compound/swirl/scratch remover. Don't go with anything too gritty or hardcore unless you really know what you're doing. Use applicator pads to apply, not your old sock. Don't let the compound dry to a haze!! Work small sections at a time. I think BadBilly always says RTFL, which is read the fucking label.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Compound/16550255
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-ScratchX-2.0/16550259

Apply a coat of polish, using application pads. Follow directions for application and removal. This is not wax. Its polish.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Polish/16550273

Apply a coat (or two) of carnuba wax. Again, using application pads and following directions. I happen to like the Meguiars Gold Class, but if you want to use a different/cheaper brand, I'm sure that would work.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/870634?www=true&productRedirect=true

Finish it off with a "quick wax" spray. Again, I really like this stuff. Once I apply it, I usually try to give it 12hours before the vehicle sees the road. You can use this stuff on the lights as well
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Quik-Detailer/16550246

Take your time. Use an orbital buffer between coats of polish/wax. Don't try to use a hand drill with a buffing pad unless you're really good - you run the risk of kind of "burning" the paint if you hit it at the wrong angle and hold it on a spot too long.

Get yourself quality application pads, and maybe a terrycloth towel or three. You might be $50-$75 by the time you buy all this stuff, but you'll be able to use it for quite a while and it'll keep your bike looking sharp. Once you do everything above, you won't need to do that with each and every wash. Just a quick touch up, or a new coat of wax.

I look forward to seeing picture of your new machine. (Take some before and after).

 

A slight mod to what P sez.., use a random orbital buffer. Try Walmart for one. The orbitals are the same deal as a pad on a drill motor. Real easy to mess up a paint job when using polish or rubbing compound even the really fine stuff especially on a bike with a fairing.

 

I would just get a custom paint job done, same price as the chinese fairings but you know that they will fit!

 

To clarify, and to add on to what BB said, I wasn't trying to imply you should apply various products using the buffer. A bike is a small area to work with, unlike doing cars and trucks. You can apply all your products by hand, and use the buffer after each product has been applied and/or removed to buff it out.

 

Have you guys ever tried any of the 3m marine compound products on bikes ?

 

I've used them on my boat, but not on my bike or car. In my opinion, they are too abrasive for automotive/bike use. Whether this is because they are designed more for fiberglass, I don't know (and I know there are some cars/bikes with fiberglass). I guess if you had a really bad case of oxidation, then maybe worth looking in to. Otherwise, I think there are plenty of products geared towards the automotive industry that should work.

 

Thanks. I have used them on my boat too with good results. Took a shit ton of hours but worth it.

 

They do work well. When my boat got too oxidized (dark blue with touches of gold metalflake), despite my bi-annual detailing, I bust out the 1000 to 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Actually less effort required, although timewise was probably longer due to sanding, wetting, rinsing, and then having to wax it all over.

 

I think this was the last stuff I used.

http://www.premiumboatcare.com/3m-06044.html?productid=3m-06044&channelid=FROOG

 

PS, don't try using this stuff in your garage while drinking......... it flew everywhere.

 

The major factor in polishing/rubbing compounds is the grit size. ie a 1200 grit compound is the same as a sheet of 1200 sandpaper.

Some boats are painted with two component paints some are not really painted the color coat being part of the layup process building the hull. Some boats have been repainted using marine grade alkyds (aka oil base) .

P is right on aboot using mechanical tools on fairings especially those made from ABS plastic. Lots of curves. Really easy to burn off paint if care is not taken.