Front brakes dragging - all pistons moving, but are they too tight?

I'm with ridevfr on this one, leave the bobbins alone.
It doesn't matter how shit your bobbins are, they will not cause brake drag.
Just because an idiot posts a video on turning your bobbins, doesn't make it true.
The same for wheel centre, you have floating calipers, unless your wheel is out by a shit load, that won't be it.
Make sure your caliper slide pins are clean and greased.
You will be suprised at how much crud builds up behind your pistons, and at the bottom of your master cylinder.
Brakes need bleeding every year, and a major clean every 4 or so years. It doesn't matter how many miles you do, or the type of bike.

 

^ thanks, you know, I saw a briton doing a video where he was using a socket on the bobbins along with a hammer, I won't dispute the fun of "hammering" on stuff, as long as its not yours. I happened to call EBC a whle ago and they substaniated the :bs: Unless your bike was under the ocean, they are ok, side bar note, I remember looking at a Yamaha TZ125 with the front wheel off and you could litteraly move the blade of the brake assembly several inches either way, can you say "Full-Floating?"

I read one of the original posters which was not bad as far as serviing the front caliper without actually forcing the pistons out. It was good, I may do a similar mini-service on one of my bikes in the near future. The proper way to do it as you know is to force the pistons out using the master cylinder and using non-maring/scratching tools to dig out the mug behind the seals, (thats why they drag!) You being the bright individual knew this though already :wink: ound: On older bikes you could have problems with the brake lines and all kinds of other problems not excluding the master cylinder and pistion/set-ups. Cheers Happy motoring.

 

The pads rubbibg is normal......! That is the intend of the design.
Otherwise as the pads wear out it would take longer time to bite and take longer time to STOP
If you are in doubt go to a dealer and check on the new bike.

 

+1

I've searched, though maybe not enough, and seen many people say to check the fluid return hole, but haven't seen anyone say exactly where it is. Maybe it will be obvious when I start messing with it, I just like to be sure ahead of time. So when you pull the lever, the fluid goes through the banjo bolt to the line... when you release the lever, does the fluid come back through a different hole?

 

Kind of. The fluid return hole is located under that flat piece of sheet metal that sits in the master cylinder. If you lift up that piece you'll see the fluid return hole. They do get gummed up a bit sometimes. Be careful if you pump the lever with that piece off because the brake fluid will splash out.

 

Thank you. I do get 1 or 1.5 turns of the wheel when spinning it by hand, and get about 40 mpg so maybe there is nothing wrong, it's just that you can hear the pads against the rotors. Maybe my imagination, but it seems louder than it used to be. Hole seem clear, and fluid did come out quite noticeably, even when pulling the lever slowly.

 

Ouch......that brake-fluid needs to be changed.....(sorry; had to say this...)

@Honda00: Question. Are the levers OEM or after market ?

 

Hey no problem man. Yeah it's time, right at 1 year, and has about 7500 miles. The black spot on the right, isn't actually there, something weird with the light/camera.


So I went 10 miles on the freeway, only used the pedal, and lightly, to stop, checked the temp of the rotors. Left was about 100*, right about 90*, rear about 115*.

 

Just getting the bike ready for Spring which isn't too far away now, decided to check the brake pads etc, anyway the pads had plenty of life left so copper greased the caliper pins and cap screw and went for a very short spin to test everything out, noticed right away that the brakes were binding, wasn't like this before I decided to mess with it, got back to the shed and discovered the left front disc and rear disc were red hot, this after only riding 1/2 mile. I was testing the brakes though, the right front disc was stone cold, time to start rooting again...