Cooling system problems

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Gino, Dec 30, 2015.

  1. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    My 06 800 has developed a cooling system problem. Purchased the bike a year ago and the bike has been well maintained by previous owner and I continued to do the same. The bike has been running well until two weeks ago. This is what has happened in reverse order.

    Drained and replaced coolant six months ago. Did the whole burping thing while on side stand, ensured there was no air in system. Ran bike for 10 minutes and rechecked coolant level after it cooled down but level only need about half a cup. Filled top up cainister between low and high level before test ride and rechecked. Used Honda dealership coolant recommended for the bike.

    Bike's had no cooling issues until two weeks ago. I ride the bike three days a week. Ambient temp around 35c. Riding the bike on the highway sits between 77 to 80c, city riding between 90 to 95c. Sitting at traffic lights can reach 102c but fan normally cuts in and cools the bike back down. Fan cuts out once below 96c.

    Two weeks ago I took the bike for quick spin into the city and noticed the fan didn't cut in at the traffic lights like it normally did and reached 105c.
    Once I was moving again the bike cooled down. Next set of lights bike reached 102c and fan cut in and cooled down as per usual.
    Last weekend took the bike for quick trip into city and bike heated up to 110c at the traffic lights, fan did not cut in.
    Got home and bike temp was at 100c. I left the bike run for a while and temp reached 112c, fan did not cut in. Turned bike off and back on again in the hope the fan would cut in. Fan did not cut in so I turned the bike off.
    Notice gurgling noise from coolant top up cainister. Waited for bike to cool down and notice the coolant top up canister was empty. I have done the following.

    Removed both fairings, removed radiator cap and found about a cup of coolant missing.
    Topped coolant in radiator and burped system, filled coolant top up cainister to just above low level.
    Fitted a funnel that seals well in the radiator cap opening. Started bike and watched coolant level rise very slowly in funnel. Bike temp reached 100c and coolant level remained at a level of approximately 1 cup above radiator cap level in the funnel.
    Temp continued to rise and I notice some very fine bubbles. I shut the bike off at 105c as the fan hadn't kicked in.

    Coolant was clean and clear with no oil in it.
    Drained oil as it was due in 1,000ks and placed oil in glass bowl. There's no coolant in the oil.
    No smoke was observed from exhausts regarding burning of coolant. Bike idles and runs fine during all of this.
    Have ordered new radiator cap from Honda dealer (what a rip-off at $45) at least Ned Kelly wore armor when he robbed people. The current radiator cap looks fine but thought I'd start with the simple stuff.
    If this doesn't work could it be the fan switch or thermosat?
    I've read some horror story threads about head gaskets I hope this not the case.
    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    I was going to suggest a rad cap. Although $45? yikes! Anyway, I'm thinking that may be the issue. Doesn't sound like a head gasket based on your summary above.

    But as far as your fan not turning on, give everything the once over. Can you move the fan by hand (bike off, obviously). Crazy as it sounds, I one had a little pebble get lodged in my fan. Fuse kept blowing. Drove me crazy! Turned out to be something simple. Maybe you'll get lucky with an easy fix.
     
  3. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Pliskin the fan rotates freely.
    I'm waiting on the radiator cap. I'll try that and see how it goes.
    Thanks for the tip though.
     
  4. Guj

    Guj New Member

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    Is the inside of the fairing wet? Wonder if you got a pin hole in the system somewhere, and it only leaks under pressure.
     
  5. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Missing coolant.
    Fan not cutting in.

    Which is the cause and which is the symptom?

    I'm with Pliskin, I would start with the rad cap, then check all your hose clamps to make sure you're not sucking any air.

    Any white exhaust? The coolant might be boiling off.

    Check your wiring from the fan switch / sensor and the fan itself back to their origins.

    Pull your spark plugs and inspect them ... what do they look like?
     
  6. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    I could not see any coolant inside the fairing or on the engine.
     
  7. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    +1 on the radiator cap. Caps are designed to pressurize system. If system is not pressurized, coolant will boil at a LOWER temperature, (100c @ sea level). By pressurizing system, coolant will boil at a HIGHER temp. That's why you never remove cap when very hot, pressure will drop and coolant instantly boils.

    I installed a manual override switch & relay on old 2003. We have very long traffic lights in our area due to left turn lanes, my 2003 always got too hot in the summer sitting at these lights.
     
  8. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    The exhaust are not white inside and there appears to be no evidence of it burning off while it was running.

    I'm in the process of checking all the hose clamps.

    I'll also check the wiring to fan switch, as I read these can be temperamental. I'll more than likely order a new one; have even quoted $140, does that sound right?

    Haven't pulled the plugs yet but good idea to see what condition the tips look like.

    Thanks for the advice Jeff.
     
  9. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Allyance I'll look into installing manual fan switch.
     
  10. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    $140 sounds pricey to me .... Partzilla has it listed for $39

    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2006/VFR800A+AC/RADIATOR/parts.html

    The sparkplugs will tell you if you're getting anything into the cylinders pretty quick by their colour.
     
  11. chris.townsend

    chris.townsend New Member

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    I had a issue of the radiator hose touching the header on the front cylinders causing mine to run warm, it eventually burned a pin hole in the rubber. Reinstalled a new hose and adjusted it further away, and spent over a hour priming the system and verifying the fan came on @ 220 and haven't had a issue since
     
  12. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    For my 2 cents worth there's two separate issues here; the fan doesn't run, and the coolant level was low. I doubt they're related.

    With the ignition on, the power feed to the fan motor is always live, and the temperature switch on the radiator just completes the circuit to earth.You should be able to check the fan wiring by pulling the female spade terminal off the temp switch and earthing this to somewhere on the frame. Bypassing the temp switch in this way allows you to check the rest of the circuit and also the fan motor. With the spade earthed and ignition on, the fan should be running irrespective of engine temp. If not, you can also check whether you're getting 12v between the spade and the chassis with ignition on; if there's nothing there and the fan fuse is OK, then the wiring is likely to be the problem. There is a 2P connector feeding power to the fan motor, maybe this has some corrosion?

    Now for the coolant. When the coolant heats up it expands and the extra goes to the expansion tank. As the coolant in the radiator cools off, it contracts and draws coolant back from the expansion tank so it stays full. It should burp any small amount of air out in the same way if the radiators were not totally filled originally, so when you pull the cap off after a few running cycles, the radiator should be chocker block. Given the expansion tank is now empty and the level in the radiator is low, I'd guess that there is a leak elsewhere in the cooling system that is leaking under pressure when hot. If the problem re-occurs after the new radiator cap, my suggestion would be to get a pressure test done on the cooling system. There's plenty of joints under the throttle bodies where leaks can and do occur (I just fixed some on my 5th gen).

    Us Kiwi's get stung for OEM Honda parts too. My suggestion is to go online to Partzilla in the US and price any bits up. Even with freight I ended up at 2/3 of the local prices, and with no delivery time penalty as all local parts seem to be ex Japan every time.
     
  13. Gino

    Gino New Member

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  14. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Chris I'll take a look.
     
  15. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    OEM from what I know.
     
  16. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Cadbury64 I'll take a look into all this and see what i find.
    A question I just asked Jeff was are the parts from partzilla genuine Honda parts or aftermarket? From your reply I can see you have used them?
    Appreciate everyone's help.
     
  17. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Yes .. on Partzilla they are OEM unless you select "Aftermarket" from the menu. :)
     
  18. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Yes very easy to select OEM parts; all mine arrived in the expected Honda packaging.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Jeff, Just ordered plugs, fan switch and oring for fan switch.
     
  20. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Cadbury64, just ordered some parts.
     
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