Cooling system problems

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Gino, Dec 30, 2015.

  1. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Be sure to let us know how it goes ... :)
     
  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Gino from your order, did the fan switch turn out to be dead?
     
  3. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Hi Cadbury I'm going to replace it to be on the safe side.
    I figure if I'm going to go to the effort of checking the plugs I'll replace the fan switch while everything is off as well as replacing the plugs. I'm not sure how long the plugs have been in so figure I'll replace them when I check them.
    Parts arrive in one week so should have some feedback
     
  4. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Once the parts are in and I've carried out a few tests I'll provide some feedback.
     
  5. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf New Member

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    I replaced my spark plugs at around 9,000 miles they were no good-spark plugs don't last any where near what they say- spark plugs just slowly die over time and use and the connections fade away too.
     
  6. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Agree totally with Cadbury64. While it may not be the problem, it is easy enough to do and cheap. You can eliminate any leaks, and should be able to find any you have without burning yourself in the process.
     
  7. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Hi Jeff I pulled the plugs and they appear to be ok, I wouldn't say they are perfect as I have no idea how long they were in the bike for. They all look very similar.
    I've attached some photos of the plugs. See what you think.

    IMG_5340.JPG IMG_5345.JPG IMG_5346.JPG IMG_5355.JPG IMG_5357.JPG
     
  8. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Would be nice to see the side profile of those plugs, but from what I can see, they look healthy.

    If you were leaking coolant into the cylinders they'd be way lighter / whiter in color. This is good news.
     
  9. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Hi Jeff side photo attached. Plugs look reasonable from this shot as well.
    image.jpg
     
  10. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Yup, they look pretty healthy ... is #3 kind of whitish or brownish / beige? Looks like lighting in the photo.

    They all look pretty good though with a beige color.
     
  11. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Jeff
    Number three is more beige in colour.
    Just about finished checking all hose clamps.
    Air filter box off tomorrow to check the rest of the hose clamps. This will take place after the headache wears off after having a few sherbets tonight to see the new year in.
     
  12. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    You're going to have to go a bit further to get to all the hose clamps around the thermostat, like removing the throttle bodies. I was able to leave the throttle cable and injector cable in place, and just swing the assembly up out of the v to get access to the remaining hoses.
     
  13. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    .... if you're taking the throttle body off to check those hose clamps under there, you might as well inspect / test the thermostat since you'll have easy access to it.

    Heck, I'd even just replace it whether it needs it or not if you have the coin since you're under there anyways and it's a bit of a PITA to get to.
     
  14. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Thanks Jeff & Cadbury after looking at the task of ensuring the hose clamps were tight and then checking where the hose clamps are under the throttle bodies I thought I may as well replace the Thermostat. Placed an order for new thermostat and oring this morning.
    This should keep me busy for a few hours.
     
  15. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Given your original post stated the running temperature as 77-80C, I'd say your thermostat is fine Gino. That is absolutely the target operating temperature where the thermostat just starts opening, and provided you've got some airflow through the radiators the temp should sit just there. Different story through traffic without airflow obviously, where the temp will rise until the fan kicks in around 100C.

    My thermostat failed (jammed) in a half-open position, which made the bike slow to warm up, and gave quite variable running temperatures but generally cooler than you report.

    [​IMG]
     

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  16. VF1000Fe

    VF1000Fe New Member

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    To Air is Human,,..

    data deleted
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2016
  17. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Hi Cadbury the operating temp of 77 to 80c was the normal operating temp before this problem.
    To go back a little further in history I lived out of town and travelled 20km each way at 100klm p/h. I've moved closer to the city five weeks ago so the bike has sat still for two weeks prior to the problems.
    So I'm not sure if the 77 to 80c temp range existed during the past three weeks as there's been no need to go on the highway.
    Main reason I'm going to replace the thermostat is to ensure I don't have to visit this area again in the next few years, if the thermostat was to go. The thermostat was under $30 so relatively cheap replacement.
    Appreciate your advice though.
     
  18. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I understand Gino, not a bad idea as getting under the throttle bodies is no fun. You might also consider replacing some of the hoses down there. As you may have guessed there was about a year between replacing the thermostat and the first hose leak. For my bike the two short hoses between the tstat and block needed to be replaced. The leak started after I did a valve check which meant lowering the radiators and I suspect the unusual position lead to the leak.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. Gino

    Gino New Member

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    Hi Cadbury & Jeff; bike is up and running now and back on the road about two weeks ago, haven't had the time until now to reply back.
    I believe replacing the radiator cap fix the original problem. I did however replace the fan thermo switch, removed and tested the fan motor and cleaned the left side radiator. Also noticed a small stone must have been drag around between the fan and radiator but only caused superficial damage. rebalance the fan to the motor drive shaft as it was out causing the fan to slightly rub on the radiator. I didn't replace the thermostat as I tested the bike on a few runs and the bike is not boiling over and the fan is cutting in. I have the new thermostat there so will replace it when I do the valve clearance check.
    One thing I have noticed is the fan appears to cut in between 103 to 105 degrees Celsius, prior to this I'm sure it was cutting in between 100 to 103. So I'll check the engine temp sensor when I do the valve clearance.

    Otherwise it's back to organising a few more rides and a couple of overnighters.
     
  20. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    The thermo switch is a pretty simple bit of gear so probably no surprise if the new one was triggering at a slightly different temp to the old one. As you'll appreciate, the fan switch is completely separate to the engine coolant temperature readout on the dash.

    Thanks for posting up the resolution to your problem. My main reason for lurking on this forum (aside from sharing my dubious experience) is to learn what goes wrong and how to fix it.
     
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