Surging and stalling after dealer valve clearance check

Last season I had my '01 VFR in for a valve clearance check as it was overdue

The dealer did the check and said that nothing needed adjusting, everything was within spec.

Upon leaving the dealer something didn't sound right as i released the clutch. I immediately turned around and gave it back to the dealer. They fixed something that had to do with air coming up through a valve it should not be? (forgive me please, i am not the most mechanically inclined and feed the stereotype of government employees) They said this was something they did not put back together properly.

After getting the bike back again there were a few things ive noticed.

Fuel economy was roughly 2 liters/100km worse than prior to the service. This has since resolved a couple thousand kms later

Bike mildly surges in 1st and second gears when i run the throttle around 6-7000 rpms, surging is enough that both my wife and i notice it jerks us around a bit on the bike.

I have noticed that the dash lights get a bit brighter as i get higher in the revs. I know this is due to higher output from the charging system however i am not sure how noticeable if at all that should be or if it is even related

Lastly and the main reason i am posting this. The bike occasionally stalls when i pull the clutch in. Typically when the engine is warm/hot. A couple of times i have caught it going into a rough idle prior to stalling but typically it just dies immediately after pulling in the clutch.

Since these issues have arisen i have had the charging system checked and the starter valves sync'd and nothing has worked so far. Looking for some advice on what could be wrong. I'm not keen on going back to a mechanic to have the valves re-checked ($$$money talks) unless that is likely the source of the problem

 

Hi Swizzlenoggin and welcome to the MadHouse:welcome:


When you get time please drop by the "introductions" forum and say Hi to the rest of the folks on here - and add at least one photo of your VFR if you don't want people raggin on you.

:focus:

As for the post valve check misbehaviour other things you mention make me wonder if this is just coincidental timing. I had my vtec valve check done recently and of course none of the valves needed adjustment despite over 90K and the bike runs perfectly.

However some of the other things you mention make me wonder if you are about to join the "VFR fried RR owners club".

As you say previously you never really noticed the lights brightening as much when the engine revs increase. Also the bike stalling sounds more like you have the start of electrical gremlins.

In your shoes I would take that as a warning that now would be a good time to get hold of a multi-meter and do the infamous "drill" - post #9 on this thread. If as you say things mechanical are not your strong point then maybe find someone to help give the charging system a quick check over.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures


At the very minimum remove the seat and check the DC volts with a multi-meter connected across the battery terminals. Note the volts DC with the engine off, engine idling and engine at 5000 rpm, then take the bike for a 20+minute ride and repeat exactly the same tests - just in case a component is only starting to fail when hot!

If the battery is healthy the first result should be between 12.7-13.2 volts. Normally a healthy stator and RR should be delivering 13 - 14 volts+ at idle and between 14 and 15 volts above 2,000 rpm. It should never exceed 15.5 volts or things like headlight bulbs will blow. (Lights on/lights off should make no more than about 0.5V difference to those numbers.)

If you see numbers outside that range "DO THE DRILL".

Take care




SkiMad

 

Who adjusted the starter valves and worked on the bike post-problem, the same dealer?

Are the battery connections tight?

The surges and rough running sound like a lean condition. Run the engine a bit particularly until you notice a rough idle or problem. Open your tank. Got any "woosh" vacuum going on? If yes a vacuum hose is blocked. Lift the tank and check the fuel vent lines.

 

After paying a dealership for a valve clearance check and likely another service item or two and your bike is not running properly, take it back to the dealer. Any further payment to said dealer should be by credit card.

If as you say, your mechanical skills are not great, any work on the bike by yourself will void the dealers responsibility.


Skimad is an old hand and may be on to something. Knight has a "thing" about starter valves which are just a bit different than checking clearances in intake and exhaust valves.

What could be fun is to bring your wife along when you state your case to the dealer. The ladies have a nose for these things and besides, you get a ride home..

 

Could the RR failure start as a fail intermittently and only when the bike is hot? I will do those tests and see what happens