No power when turned ON

My '84 vf750f left me on the side of the highway this weekend, pretty sure it was that damn fuel pump. After a certain point, say 11 litres of gas, it just won't pull anymore or it is overheating.
Can I just take that damn thing out and run a gravity feed and if so what's the best tutorial I can find on that?

The bigger problem now is that while I was tinkering with it on the side of the road, I opened the fuse box just to make sure they were all secure, sure enough all was good, put the cover back on, put the key in the ignition and nothing...

I've put the battery on charge but even before that I boosted it from our car and still nothing, no oil lights, neutral light, nothing and naturally it won't even turn over.

What's my process going forward? The bike was at least turning on and turning over before I touched the fuses, I've got a voltmeter to test fuses, wires, etc and a shop manual.

 

Have you checked the main fuse? It's in a seperate small box, looks like a thin flat plate with screw on each side....

 

That's the small box to the left of the battery right?
I've looked into it but maybe you can clear something up as I'm about to put the battery back in.

Should there be power going through it at all times or only when the key is put into the on position?
Also is there a specific setting or way I should be testing if there's power going to it?

I'm really new to working with the electricals on bikes, have only had to work on carbs/valves so far.

 

Yes that's it. Is that plate broke? If so you won't have any power.

 

Probably sounds dumb, and a shot in the dark but have you checked to kill switch ?
Quite easy to nudge into the off position
I know from bitter experience many years ago !!!

 

Just checked the main fuse.
The metal bar that is screwed down seemed complete on the left side but on the right side had a gap, I doubt this is normal so it could be broken.

THAT BEING SAID... I unscrewed it for further inspection and that thing just crumbled in my fingertips, super brittle.
I'll have to start by getting a new main fuse, are those little bars hard to find? I'm in Montreal, Canada. They seem to be pretty simple so I'm hoping i'm okay!

Haha Deadeye, it was worth a shot! Killswitch was on. Thanks either away!

 

Yep it was blown, hence the gap. It's a dealer item. I replaced one once with an auto parts store fusible link with a replaceable fuse, 30 amp. Just attach one end of it to each screw. When I sold the bike years later it was still working just fine.

 

Well I've got everything put together, battery installed and charged, new 30A main fuse as you did it and changed all the fuses in the fuse box to new 15A fuses and still nothing. I'm thinking it could be the ignition switch?

 

You need a test light to start tracing where you have power and where you don't

 

.... or a digitical multi-meter and know how to use it.

 

I've got a digital multimeter, just not really good at using it. I understand how to use it for continuity and I think I've got it down for measuring the voltage in the battery.
I've got four options on mine (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...e&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default)

I set it to volts with the bar and dotted line then 20V and my battery gives me a reading of 12.6 volts, sounds good.
How do I go about testing wires and the like, do I ground the black to the frame and the red to what I'm testing? Grounding to the negative on the battery and the red to my main fuse gave me 12.6 volts, that would mean it's getting power from the battery and the wires between the two are good... I think?

Having trouble finding a really basic tutorial on how to test my wires so I can go through the chart and find the issue.

 

No power when turned on......one word Viagara

 

lmao. If only it were that easy

 

Sounds like you're on the right track with the multimeter. Just remember that volt testing should be done in parallel (as you're doing) but current testing is done in series.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yup .. pretty much as Cadbury noted. Look for the thread called "the drill".

Start with the battery and work your way to the starter for now though.

 

Not sure, haven't read it but it might help with using a multimeter.
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

 

I figured I'd give an update in case anyone has the same problem and couldn't find a solution.

Looked into the main fuse and that thing was brittle and busted so I did as Y2Kviffer did by just putting a 30A fuse holder wired in.
That got the power back on when turning the ignition on.
Started the bike in one shot and then noticed smoke coming from around the rectifier and sure enough the plastic was melted to shit.
Fixed that up by individually wiring those wires into themselves with connectors.

Bike ran well until I was on the highway and had to get off again, that damn fuel pump.
Running a straight line from the tank into the carbs with an inline fuel filter to catch that pesky tank rust.

If anyone's wondering, I'm using a plain plastic filter. I read that the bronze sintered are better since they don't restrict fuel flow but so far it's ran perfectly.

 

If you have rust in the tank, get yourself a tank liner kit from Kreem or POR-15 ... you'll never need to worry about plugging your fuel filter from rust again.

 

Spoke too soon - this bike has me going crazy lmao.

Won't hold idle now if it manages to start, choke or not.
Even with a boost... I tested the battery and it was getting its 12V same for main fuse

 

hI,

if no oli lamp, no lights, nothing....just check the negative pole of your battery. It has to be well attached to the frame.
Let me know....
çamps,
Carmine