Bike Stalling while riding, ABS light flashing

Just did a 230 mile ride and was fine for the first 140, but on the way home the bike shut off on me 6 or 7 times. ABS light would come on and flash. Crank crank crank crank no start. Key off and then key on will allow the bike to start...any ideas? What does an ABS fault have to do with the bike stalling?

 

Its a fault code, you have to count the numbet of blinks and it corosponds to a fault code. Others will chime in, bad crank position sensor? I dont know, keep us posted.

 

Once it dies while riding have you tried switching the ignition off and back on and see if it restarts without pulling the clutch in

 

Won't restart without pulling clutch so I know the kickstand switch is ok...

 

So is it still rolling when you do this, what happens if you turn the ignition off and back on , pull the clutch and then dump it so you are effectively roll starting it?

 

Read the fault codes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpHK7gMx2WY

If you pause the video at the right point there is a brief shot of a list showing all the codes and their meanings.
That should tell you what is wrong and what needs attention. If you need it there was a link to a manual on here somewhere.


Good luck

 

Manual:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....onda-vfr-service-manual-optimized-bookmarked/

Please add your bike year to your profile.

 

There are no fault codes. Light blinks as many times as I let it...

 

Yep still rolling, sometimes highway speeds sometimes when coming to a stop. Haven't tried pop starting it but if I try to start with the button it will crank crank crank but not start until I turn off the key and turn it back on

 

And here's something I just noticed, when it shuts off, I don't get the FI light and the fuel pump cycle, OR the FI light flickers along with the fuel pump sound.

 

You may have to do "the drill" and inspect the electrical system. The first thing I had thought was that if there is a problem with one of the grounds it could kill everything and cause mysterious problems, until the ground discharges after a couple minutes, then you take off like normal, and the ground voltage builds back up again.

 

Found something...

Would this fuse and connector happen to go to the ABS system?




Judging by the parts diagram it's part of the starter system...


Now the only thing I can think of that would have caused this is my cooling fan...
I had some issues with the bike running hot and found a 182* fan switch which works great but sometimes it keeps the fan on while riding at highway speeds which as far as I know makes the fan work against the natural aerodynamics of the cooling system. Could that extra stress on a longer ride have caused this harness to burn up?

 

Lots of things can cause that, corrosion of the connector builds up heat and melts them. Next thing your stator/recreg connector will do the same and take out your charging system as thousands of VFR's have already done. You have been warned

 

How do I prevent that?

 

Cut the connector out and solder and heatshrink the wires

 

Do that with the stator too? That thing is 3 or 4 wires correct?

 

The connector that fails is the one with 3 yellow wires from the stator to the rec/reg, this one gets hot due to corrosion, melts and then allows the terminals in the connector to touch each other and that causes instantaneous charging failure, takes everything out

 

The corrosion Norm warms of happened over 12 years of aging on (unfortunately) non-sealed connections that were exposed to air and moisture. Also the stock suspension is extremely harsh and this vibrates wires loose. You cannot prevent these things, they simply happen over time. You can however catch these problems in the early stages and refresh them before they become a problem.

Many here install voltmeters which is a great idea. You will typically see the voltage begin to drop as a result of many issues, a hint that it is time to redo your inspection.

 

The other cause is the constant heat cycles the connector goes through depending on how hard the stator is working

 

Would dielectric grease in the connector suffice or is it better to remove the connectors entirely?