5th Gen Best Mod$: "Actually Readily Obtainable and Available"

Listening to a dumb Squid bang off of the limiter, for a few seconds, at the top of each and every gear, brings as much joy as listening to nails on a chalk board.

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Ok so listen to this video and the limiter also gets hit, so what's you gotta say on this guy?
There's no need to be so concerned about what others are doing to the point of being critical and casting a made up aspirsion, but you are entitled to post here, so fine ok

Kawasaki H2R Isle of man TT (SCREAMING). !! - YouTube

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cL3MH3Nllic


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100% supports other's claim of needing a rider mod, before a bike mod.

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Before you get all moist over DynoJet #s, go look up a site called True Rear Wheel HP.

It eye opening.

 

Today, about 75% of the entire world's hp values are a mess of dynojet "hp" and dynojet dyno clones' rough approximations of dynojet horsepower , some brake dyno mfgr's "dynojet channel" that's "+/- 10% of a dj number" , some dynos that out exaggerate the dj numbers and imply that they know what the transmission hp and crank hp is, and even other dynos with the most expensive brochure that read whatever the user wants them to read, True, Real, SF and DJ..... or make up your own inflation factor (sigh...)

All because some guy thought that a 1985 over bored 1400cc prerelease version V Max made 145 crank hp according to the marketing dept. and he couldn't have his "new" inertia dyno read 90 hp on a stock dealership V-Max. Well, he was correct at 90-95 effective hp, but he made it read 120 to sell more of his dynos. And that's where the chassis dyno hp mess started. Read more about inflated hp numbers

Simple Solution:

True / Effective HP. Every dyno company can all do it.


DEF:
Corrected True HP is the:
Actual power under Steady State (preferred)
or Sweep with CORRECT inertial mass value at 20 f/ps
delivered to the drive roller of a chassis dyno
to which is ONLY added the dyne coast down parasitics and then
corrected to existing atmospheric test conditions.


Factory Pro has confidentially refused to exaggerate measured and corrected horsepower figures to sell more dynos.

Since Factory Pro hasn't rescaled horsepower for the last 20 year and our software reads the same files the same from the very first EC997 dyne system.

Some Dynamometer companies add to measured rear wheel power readings a factor that is based on ESTIMATED rear wheel power losses (under what power conditions? 125cc? 1200cc? under coasting conditions? with a 3.00x17 bias ply tire? a 190x17 radial tire? New heavy radial tire vs. worn old, light, stock bias ply tire? Who knows?)

In short, there is NO meaningful "average" tire to get a correct rear tire power transmission loss measurement for all bikes - so obviously, unless they actually measure the power lost in the rear tire, under driven load conditions, NO dyno company should BE ADDING incorrect power figures into the measured power. It's simply wrong.

The fact that they add varying amounts of power to the actual, "true" amount of power delivered and measured to the surface of the drive roller creates a situation that makes it an onerous task to compare power figures from different brands of dynamometer systems.

On simple inertial dynamometers, some (most, actually, all that I know of in the MC market) companies use an average for the inertial mass value of the engine, transmission, rear wheel, sprocket and chain on every bike - as if a YZ125 has the same rear wheel or internal rotating mass as a 1340cc Harley Davidson. Needless to say, if the software thinks that the YZ125 had a HD rear wheel on it, it would look like the 125 makes more HP at the rear wheel than it does at the crankshaft. It's simply wrong.
And - that's why you hear of 125cc Karts that make 43 hp at the rear wheels!!!!!

It's expensive to measure frictional losses in the engine and drivetrain, requiring the dyno to be able to drive the vehicle with engine off. Add the cost of a 50+hp electric motor, controlled power supply, etc. It's just not likely that $20,000 dyno will be equipped with that equipment.

It is also common for dynamometer companies to add to the power readings by adding transmission and primary gear/chain losses back into the measured power readings. Some companies make a concerted effort try to measure frictional losses and, optionally, add the power to the measured readings. Other companies - some that would surprise you - say that it's not important and give a blanket, single factor for frictional losses in every engine. That includes some $25,000-$35,000 dynes.

Some simply say that there is a meaningful "average" for every motorcycle,(2 stroke, 4 stroke, 1 cylinder/1 transmission, 4 cylinder/1 transmission) and apply it to every bike and that it is not a significant difference.

Blanket estimates of "average" losses and corrections are, quite simply, incorrect. At the upper levels of the industry, (we are talking about $150,000 - $500,000 AC or DC 4 quadrant dynamometers) it is not tolerated - shouldn't be - and needn't be.

There is a dyno company that actually has different versions of software that displays their own identical data files as different amounts of power depending on whether you use the DOS version or the Windows version of their software!!

True Rear Wheel Horsepower (tm) is Factory Pro's standard of measuring the power that is actually delivered to the rear wheel. It is honest, true, fair and duplicable. It is the ONLY standard that can be duplicated by the entire industry - regardless of the dyno manufacturer.

Following is a reference table so that, if you are used to rather inflated HP figures, you can see what your vehicle would generally make on the True HP Scale.

True HP as compared to DJHP

It's not possible to give an absolute conversion factor, as it appears that dj dynos don't all read the same (my experience, other's, too - and Mag Articles and 2002 Roadracing World gsxr1000 and R1 comparison articles), but, you can take True HP from EC997's and produce an "average" djhp of of an "average" dj dyno - empirically derived, over 20 years of comparison of the two hp scales.

True / Effective HP Scale approximate DJHP +/- 2% multiplication factor
This is on a calibrated EC997 - all ec997's are supplied with quick, accurate calibration procedures. This number depends on whether the dj is a high or low or average reading dj. Dj dynos can be calibrated with a visit from dj tech support. (the dj dynos do not compensate for the differences in inertial mass of the bike - a HD/Cruiser has a heavier rear wheel, chain and crankshaft (resulting in a lower correction factor) and a higher dj correction factor for a YZ125 with a light crank and rear wheel)

Subtract up to 5% for high mass bikes. Add up to 5% for low mass bikes.
example: at 90 True hp, *1.15 average and *1.10 (high mass bike) to 1.20 (low mass bike)
50 True HP 55 djhp *1.10 = djhp
80 True HP 90 djhp *1.12 = djhp
90 True HP 103 djhp *1.15 = djhp
100 True HP 115 djhp *1.15 = djhp
120 True HP 138 djhp *1.15 = djhp
130 True HP 150 djhp *1.15 = djhp
140 True HP 168 djhp *1.20 = djhp
150 True HP 180 djhp *1.21 = djhp
160 True HP 192 djhp *1.15 to *1.22 = djhp - subject to revision
(Only a couple samples, all S1000rr's - Seems to be a wide range of S1000rr dynojet numbers, 179, 184, 185, 186, 191, 210?? )
170 True HP
I don't know what the scale is after 275 True or in between 170 True and 275, as I haven't tested any motorcycle that has also been run on a normal reading dynojet that makes that much power
275 True HP 375 djhp *1.35 = djhp


Need a reference scale?

True Rear Wheel Scale Samples

HD True HP page - click here

 

Link goes to Home Depot site...

 

More relevant than most of his posts

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FYI GPS SpeedTracker max today was 132mph

 

Well shit.

 

And that was at an speedometer indicated...?

 

This is becoming a full time job for ya Candyred
Have him on ignore but read all the replays and I'm LMAO


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Blablablablablablabla

You've had enough freedom of speech here


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I'm double checking the speedo with the GPS apps and it's indicating about 3-4 mph faster at 50 mph

 

If your GPS is indicating that your speedo is off by 3-4 mph at an indicated 50mph that is 6-8% That would make your indicated 140mph runs and actual 131.6 to 128.8.

That seems about right to me.

 

And that would make the 130mph indicated, aero brick wall, even more non impressive lol.

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Actually now I am really concerned because I have not seen a top speed over 132 mph yet and if this is always true and ECU has a top speed limiter then it's pretty much the end of that story and I'll have to get a RapidBike module

 

You're an idiot lol

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Possibly but not a "total idiot" because I have revealed an accurate means to test a VFR power gains, but I have to wind out 5th gear to about 12,000 and get it in 6th gear for about 15-20 seconds on a clear open road with no wind and see what GPS SpeedTracker shows as max speed. I am thinking if I'm at 115 whp it should get about 148 mph

 

Stock vfr800's do 155mph actual. You are confirmed for an absolute idiot. The only thing that you revealed, is how to spend a lot of money to make a vfr slow.

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