Chain Tight/Loose

I tightened my chain a week or so ago right before getting a new rear tire and noticed the chain being of appropriate tension throughout its travel until one spot where it became very tight for about 3 to 4 inches of travel. I had cleaned and lubricated the chain well prior to adjusting it. I assume the chain has some corroded links but it appears fine visually. Is it possible the front sproket is worn? The rear sprocket appears normal. The chain was replaced a year or 2 ago. The 98 VFR has 33,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions.

 

The chain is shot. I may look fine but it's worn out. It's possible that the chain was replaced and not the sprockets making the new chain wear more rapidly.

 

If funds are available its probably time to replace both sprockets and the chain especially if the sprockets are the originals. Replacing the whole lot is really the only way to deal with a chain once it has deteriorated so far it has developed a section with several tight links. OK you might be able to get a bit more life out of your current chain if you intensively clean, free off and lubricate the tight links, but it will be only a temporary fix.

Sadly chain life is far from predictable as it all depends on the conditions where you ride and how the bike is stored and maintained. When you park a bike outside in the rain then the section of links at the bottom is more exposed to rain and more prone to rust and tight links developing. In California with dry roads most year round - a well maintained chain and sprockets can last many years, meantime just one winter of daily use in Europe on roads with loads of road salt and nil maintenance can virtually destroy them.

Take care



SkiMad

 

I live in galicia, spain, lots of rain but no salt. I use the bike all year roun and cant get more than 15k miles out of a chain-sproket kit. Even with scootoiler.

 

One word of warning, you do not want to have a chain break. It happens with worn out chains. In the best case it will feed itself off and leave you stranded. Most of the time it wads itself up around the counter shaft sprocket bending the shaft or breaking the engine case. Sometimes it will lock the rear wheel at speed. Please do not take a chance with a worn out chain. It is false economy.

 

Is that the original chain? Possible with that many miles. I bought my 99 with 28K, still had the original chain. Was missing some o-rings, others shriveled with dry rot. Had more than an inch of stretch compared to a new one.

Replace it

 

Thanks everyone. No it's the 2nd chain. How difficult is it to change both sprockets?

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Depends on your skill level. I would say medium. Read the procedure in the service manual and you will get a better idea if it is something you want to tackle.

 

What they all said.

 

Will do.... Once I buy a service manual.

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Chain and sprockets is easy, just a bit time consuming.

-pull the chain guard and left fairing
-remove the clutch slave cylinder housing(don't pull the clutch handle while it's off!!)
-activate the rear brake and break the counter shaft sprocket bolt, and the rear sprocket bolts loose.
-loosen the swingarm pinch bolt and get yourself some slack in the chain.
-if you've got a clip on master link removing the chain is quick, rivet on you'll want to break it. (or you can be lazy like me and use an angle grinder with a death wheel and simply cut it off)
-remove old chain, remove sprocket bolts and sprockets.
-clean out the gunk from in front of the countershaft
-install new sprockets and hand tighten bolts
-install new chain
-take up slack and tighten pinch bolt.
-apply rear brake and torque sprocket bolts to spec
-install slave cylinder housing, chain guard, left fairing
-ride

 

Well now that sounds like something even I could manage. Thanks so much for the tutorial! I think I'm going to tackle it then.

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You can do the chain/sprocket replacement with basic hand tools, you may need air or an electric impact gun to break free the counter sprocket bolt. You do need a chain riveting tool too in order to press on the new master link plate and stake it. You have to have a riveted master link (not the ones with clips.) There are chain companies that have nice kits all ready cut to length for your specific applications, I usually go with them. I get 20,000 miles out of my chains, on my EX/GPZ 500 I replaced the stock one at 10,000 miles or so, second one lasted 15,000. I think that bike is on its fourth chain/sprocket replacement. You have to replace all three items btw eace: OUTTIE

 

Thanks RiderVFR

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If you have not replaced sprockets and chain before - the basic principles are covered in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yj4sKsguvU

OK its not a VFR but the principles are the same.

Have fun





SkiMad

 

VFR is actually one of the easiest bikes to do. Single sided swingarm wins again. On other bikes, you'd be pulling the rear axle and wheel. Then worrying about the hub and cush drive bits falling all over the place.

 

You can download service manual here but must sign up for free. Good luck.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/228-vfr800-9801-servicemanual/

 

Golden Rule of Adjusting Chains and Lubing them;

Lube when hot.

Adjust when cold.


Chains always have tight spots no-matter-what. Rule of thumb is to adjust on the tight spot. You can do it :thumbsup: :smile:

 

as others mentioned, your chain may break unless it's adjusted for proper tension at the TIGHTEST spot after a ride, when it's warm. :dread:

 

Ah. Didn't understand that - Thanks! Kinda important huh?

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