How-To: PAIR removal for 5th Generation

I don't make assumptions and I also don't use websites to increase the presumed validity of my claims. But it is much cheaper than dyno time and experienced help.

 

Please explain, MD. Is that like jumping the shark?

For me, I noticed no running difference with/without the PAIR system, and no performance difference with/without the flapper. IMHO the flapper has much more to do with Honda complying with noise regulations than trying to improve performance.

Getting rid of the PAIR is like chucking out the vapour canister on CA bikes, it just gets rid of a heap of unnecessary hoses. If I wanted to save the planet I'd get a Prius.

Disabling the flapper stopped what I considered an annoying step-change in intake noise when it opened.

I have no data to support the statements above!

 

Keeping or removing the PAIR system will not change anything either way. If you just want to unclutter the amount of hoses under the tank and rid yourself of the hardware, disconnect it, plug the openings and put electrical tape in the plug coming from the harness. If you wanna get real tricky, you can make a new connector half with just plugs in it.

The airbox modifications are only useful if you have a fuel module, catless header, a good set of cans, good aftermarket air filter, eliminate the O2 sensors and some dyno time. The gains with the airbox become of greater value with the level of engine modification. Insulating the airbox, bottom of the fuel tank and the lines is also beneficial.

One thing to consider is that Ti exhausts have different thermal properties which can lower exhaust gas velocity...the effect is very minimal, but it does take place. Wrapping or thermal coating of exhaust headers is also of marginal value. It will assist in heat soak into the surrounding engine cases however.

Heat soak into the engine cases alone can cause 3-5% HP loss on a dyno reading after repeated runs......

 

Or, how to turn a 5000 peso bike into a 10000 peso bike in several sort of easy steps.

 

here are some pics of my pair valve delete and de-snorkled airbox...

Click on the pics to enlarge.

Admittedly, tough to tell if this had any significant effect on the engine performance, but as others have mentioned it did de-clutter the area under the fuel tank.

 

When the timing is right, Ill just go looking for some rocking horse poo in the shape of a RC45 cam cover (s)

 

Only $328 each on Partzilla...why wait?

 

Any chance these photos are still available from your PAIR valve mod instructions?

 

I can see them. You can't?

 

Hi,

Thanks for the detailed how-to but I can't see your photos.

All I can see is a logo from Photobucket requesting I upgrade my account.

I have created a Photobucket account but this has not made any difference.

Is there any way I can see these photos in an alternative way?

Tony

 

Sadly the problem is with Photobucket, where they have changed their terms and conditions so instead of hosting for free, you are expected to pay like $400 to upgrade your account to allow you to link images to sites like VFRW. So any photo link to Photobucket is now kaput.

 

Unfortunately you are correct. I have a lot of forum posts across multiple forums and it affects all of them. I am not paying $400 for this.

 

is here a difference between capping 2 hoses per head or using a hose to connect the 2 chrome tubes ??

 

Yea, it's a pretty cut and dry process especially with Mellos Plates if you plan on at any time to do a dyno tune, you'll be glad you did this.

 

[QUOTE="mello dude, post: 571184, member: 1366"

3. Pry the reed valve plates out with a screw driver. They come out easy.

4. Carefully slip off the rubber gaskets of the reed valve plates. – I cleaned them with spray brake cleaner – wipe dry. The gaskets are somewhat D shaped. Remember which way they go in. (I would have bought new if I could, but no go on that unless you buy new pair valve assemblies, not happening for me.)

5. You will now have 4 loose plate/reed valve assemblies – one at a time, clamp in a vise and with the right sized JIS screwdriver, remove the screw out that is holding the reed valve. It’s a good idea to pre spray with a penetrating oil, such as blaster and let it sit, tap, tap a few times, before you unscrew it.

6. Pull ‘em all apart so you just have reed plates and gaskets and give ‘em all a good cleaning. I used the spray brake cleaner and wiped ‘em down dry.


7. Also back on the bike, I cleaned the inside of the “pockets” that the parts go in with more brake cleaner on a Q-tip. Clean parts = good seal.

8. Now re-assemble the D gaskets back on the reed plates. Keep clean! Clean! Clean!


GL[/QUOTE]

Forgive my inexperience but why take the reed valves apart? Is it just to clean them or are we eliminating some sort of internal component?

I assembled mine with the block off plates just placed on top - no screw removal - and they sit nice and flush.

Also, can anyone clarify which airbox port gets plugged? I took it all apart a month ago and am struggling to work out which hoses go where. Currently I have one open port on the front left of the air box. Is that the one to plug? If so, the plug supplied is too small.

Supplied by Smart Moto in Greece.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Thanks Mello Dude, you're a gent. Pitty photo bucket has hidden all your photos because you've done a cracking how-to and put a lot of effort into it.

Interestingly, Google's search engines can still see the photos of you do an image search. I used this function to help do the mod.

Stray

 

I know less than nothing about this but what you are saying makes sense to me, there are no 02 sensors,cat converter etc on my 98, I always thought the 98-99's were different from the 00-01's for this reason,
I might try removing the snorkel and unplugging the flapper though to see if it makes any difference, easy to undo if I'm not happy with it, can't see the point of messing with pair valves though on a 98 bike with no 02 sensors.