2014 Brake fluid and Cluch replacement

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by Bubba Utah, Mar 10, 2018.

  1. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Has anyone replaced the brake fluid on a GEN 8 and could you show me how to do it. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on older bikes. I also want to change the clutch fluid. Most of the videos conflict and state to use a friend. Most are only changing a single disk caliper. Some state issues like air in the line. I would like to see if anyone could show me the best way to change all of the brake fluid on a 2014 if possible and suggestions like using a pair of needle nose pliers to create a one way valve to make the change easier. I have no buddy's to help me so it would be good to see how to do it on my own!

    In this He is only changing a system with one front caliper. I appreciate any help. I'm not a general wrencher for years, but I would like to start back up and take care of the bike on my own.
     
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  2. Tiutis

    Tiutis New Member

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    I'd like to see a video too.
    This guy's technique is new to me. I'm not sure if the pliers fully stop the fluid from going back up so I would still want to close the bleeder valve just to make certain there are no bubble introduced into the lines.
    And we need to wear gloves!
     
  3. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I just looked at my fluids today and since buying the bike new in May, 2016. The color is a light-medium amber. I will probably wait for a month or two of riding this season and go from there. Maybe someone by that time will have changed theirs and posted a video. With duo calipers and alone I would like to see it done before I go out and Fuck something up again myself. ;-) But I do need to get cofindent at doing routine maintenance. And I need more TOOLS and a work bench.
     
  4. Laker

    Laker New Member

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    Hey BU. Get yourself a set of Speed Bleeders. It turns this into a super easy, one man job. Front, rear and clutch. I got mine from Wire my Bike.
    Good Luck
     
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  5. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    I second that motion. Speedbleeders are great!
     
  6. HawkhoundVA

    HawkhoundVA Member

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    The guy in the video works at my local Honda shop in Norfolk. I’m going to do my fluids here in a couple weeks on my Gen 8. I also have been searching videos and and looking for a how to. Even the maintenance manual doesn’t specify for the dual caliper. I’ll try and post a video of how that goes once I get it figured out.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  7. HawkhoundVA

    HawkhoundVA Member

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  8. Vulcanator

    Vulcanator New Member

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    I did both the clutch and brake fluid on my bike by myself without special tools, so it is possible. On the front brake, I did the right caliper first although I think it doesn't matter. The fluid on mine still looks like a light coffee color, but I least know it's new.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2018
  9. fink

    fink Member

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    Have never seen his technique before or replaced the rubber diaphragm unless it was goosed . I wonder how it would work on braided lines?

    I have used several methods over the years , std Pump and open, Sucked the fluid through using a syringe or reverse bled using a syringe. All have worked.

    Most state use a friend because it saves you stretching to close the bleed nipple, risking spilling fluid.

    The 8th gen is the same as other twin caliper bikes to bleed.
     
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  10. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I just like the Turkey Baster! Gotta get me one and those long angled needle nose. I trust a guy that has this as his job for years. I miss my old contact at the dealership locally that I worked with back in the mid to late 80's that retired from bikes and went into insurance due to income. He loved wrenching on bikes- which was his first love, but when you work for 20yrs and only break $18 an hour and have a family, I understand. I tried to get him to work out of his home and pay him half the shop charge. He did with some, but he had integrity and loyalty to the owners of his shop before he left and was always hesitant to do outside work even if it benefited him. That is why I loved him and trusted him.

    Shops that charge $80 an hour and give a very good mechanic only minimum income is a bitch. But, I know that Motorcycle shops depend on the shop hour pay to keep the door open. Rent, inventory, lights, payroll etc. is a killer. Not much profit if they don't take the rate and pay what they can out of that. Sales of bikes new get them shit and only on used bikes do they make up some profit with parts, and service.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2018
  11. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Had a text chat with OCLandspeeder yesterday and we were discussing clutch/brake bleeding and how often one should do bleeding. According to this video, we were wayyy off!

     
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  12. fink

    fink Member

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    Have to say if I do brake or clutch fluid changes it’s a new bottle every time. As it’s hygroscopic I wait for a warm dry day to do my changes.

    The only air in the system is the stuff that sits between the fluid and resivoir top. Agree with what he says regarding racing / trackdays but not so for the road.
     
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  13. Thomas Gessner

    Thomas Gessner New Member

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    While replacing the brake fluid is not a complicated task per se, a lot of care as to be taken to do it right. There is no room for errors. Maybe it would be a good idea to take a wrenching course b4 starting to work on a critical component of the bike yourself. I have been bleeding brakes for 20+ years but still today, I turn off the radio in the workshop when working on the brakes of the bike so that I am not the least bit distracted...
     
  14. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Been doing the turkey baster thing for decades.... I thought lots of guys knew about that... Suck out the fluid, get the inside of the reservoir squeaky clean with paper towels and Q tips. - Its also good for a quick change with out a bleed...(Making note to do a full bleed later) -- Needle nose pliers? Screw that, (wont work with SS lines)... get speed bleeders as Laker and Joe have said. Will cost about the same as buying the pliers.

    On the bleed.. pull the lever.. slooowwly, that helps very well. Feel the fluid moving through the MC... And after you think you got it made, button it up and take a zip tie around the lever and grip pulled back solid and set overnite. Any bubbles will rise to the reservoir, and the lever will firm up solid.

    Dunno why the guy is saying to change the rubber thingy every time, I do mine once in a great while.... - I wrap a paper towel around the whole edge of the reservoir when I pull the plastic thing off...

    Last tip - Use a JIS screwdriver on the 2 screws on the MC lid.... A regular phillips risks a strip out....
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2018
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  15. fink

    fink Member

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    Yeah Mellow. Forgot to mention that in my post if he’s a qualified Honda mech he should know the difference between a JIS and a phillips.
     
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  16. Tiutis

    Tiutis New Member

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    If the only air that sits in between fluid and reservoir, why would it be good to suck the brake fluid out completely like in the video. Doesn't that pose risk of air getting into the lines when you pour new fluid and starting the level action?
     
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  17. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Thanks for the advice!
     
  18. fink

    fink Member

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    Some folk prefer a dry system and start from scratch as opposed to putting fresh fluid in with old stuff.

    Makes no difference with me.
     
  19. Gator

    Gator Insider

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    I have run ATE brake fluid forever. Their DOT 4 use to come in blue and yellow and made it easy to see color change with a complete flush. When I was doing a lot of track days we changed it a lot. I can't find it in Blue, only yellow now. This thread reminded me I need more.
     
  20. mikem317

    mikem317 New Member

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    All good advice here. I used the factory bleeder values and used a one-man bleeder tool (https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11017-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B00F9XHVKA/) to help me. Worked wonders. Using Honda DOT 4 brake fluid.

    The one thing I would recommend highly is to make sure you put a ridiculous amount of clean shop towels and rags to prevent the brake fluid from making contact with painted surfaces. For the front, rear, and clutch master cylinders, I would take one of my wife's hair elastics and use that to hold a clean shop towel close to the surface so as to prevent the oil from coming out and wrecking havoc on the paint.

    Also, and perhaps more critical for motorcycles versus autos, I would make sure the master cylinder caps are totally clean before you put them back on. If not, you'll get a little bit of fluid seepage.
     
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