Painting a Fuel Tank !

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Diving Pete, Feb 25, 2018.

  1. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    In October, SkiMad 4x4 mentioned that he had managed to get a spare fuel tank for Triumph Street Triple - his tank has more dents in than the moon !

    I said drop it with me at Xmas & I'll look into painting it... LOL

    BTW

    His Current bike is Jet Black....

    [​IMG]IMG_2879 by Pete Smith, on Flickr

    So yesterday I started the initial prep work - out with 320 grit wet & dry & a stanley knife blade.

    [​IMG]IMG_0858 by Pete Smith, on Flickr

    [​IMG]IMG_0857 by Pete Smith, on Flickr

    Quick discaimer - I am NOT A PAINTER !!!!! so don't send me any kit to paint / practise on - lol
     
  2. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    After I got the tank pad off the area underneath has the paint flaking & looks like a repair had been made - ca la vie...
    Its a carbon tank pad & I removed it in one piece - phew so reusable.

    Current plan

    Its going to get a 320grit sand all over, repair a small paint chip, then 600grit. If the 600 is fine then I'll move to primer BUT MAY put a black guide coat on check - rattle can..
     
  3. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Looking good so far. The secret to a great paint job is the preparation.
     
  4. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee Member

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    I did that once a long time ago. Along with 2 little side panels and maybe a fender. Or maybe that was chrome.
    Swore I would never do it again. Prep is key, yes.
    It also helps to have a better spray booth than a dimly late apartment house basement.
    And better sprayer than a rattle can.
    I did get a pretty good from 10 feet look at least. :Yo:
     
  5. mwlehman

    mwlehman New Member

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    i do it for a living....not a bad gig
     
  6. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee Member

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    I bet you don't work cheap.
    But do a lot better job than a 20 something in his basement. :D
     
  7. DaHose

    DaHose New Member

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    I can share that my experience using rattle cans on body work taught me a few things.

    1.) Preparation REALLY is the most important part of the process. You can use glazing putty to spot fill chips. Just feather before applying.
    2.) Rattle can primers work ok. I have used high build primers with good results.
    3.) You actually can use the inexpensive paints from the parts store and get good results. The important thing is to buy several extra cans so you can learn how the sprayer patterns, and how much to apply on each layer. Practice, practice, practice.
    4.) Try for at least 3 coats of paint. I find that 5 light coats is ideal.
    5.) Good quality paint is ready for clear faster, the less expensive paints seem to like a bit of time between. Make sure you wait 3 days between last paint, and clear coat layers, and that you store the painted parts in a warm space.
    6.) Do a good wet sand between last paint and first clear coat layers.
    7.) Do at least 4 light layers of clear, because spray cans really seem to orange peel (maybe it's just me). With 4 layers on there, you can do a final wet sand with 800 that cleans things up really nice, then finish with some 1200, and polish.

    I am NOT a pro painter, and I am sure my experience is not comprehensive, but I sure do get good results keeping the above stuff in mind.

    One last thing I would like to learn more about is about clear coating. The inexpensive clear coat you can buy at parts places does not handle gasoline splashes well, which is exactly the kind of conditions a tank will regularly be exposed to. One thing I haven't tried yet, is using a 2K clear as a final top coat, and I have concerns of the solvent doing damage to a lesser quality clear coat. You can purchase 2K (2-part) clear coats in a rattle can, but they are quite expensive, so I haven't just ordered some to do a test myself. Perhaps our more experienced members can comment if it would be safe to top coat a lower quality, fully cured clear coat with a high quality 2K layer(s)?

    Jose
     
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  8. CYCLONE 2Cooper

    CYCLONE 2Cooper New Member

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    One thing I didn't see mentioned was the surface where the fuel cap seals against the tank. Looking at this tank it's probably not a big deal but that surface where the cap and the tank seal needs to stay bare metal. Years ago I had a tank done and it was beautiful. The guy that painted it had the paint on top of the lip where the rubber gasket of the cap met the tank. About a month into it I noticed the paint was lifting around the filler area. What happened was the fumes from the gas got under the paint and lifted it. I had it redone and left the mating surface unpainted and never had a problem again. This tank has a recessed design so even if that happened you wouldn't notice it until you took the cap off.
     
  9. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    I'm not rattle canning it. Except for a guide coat after priming.

    Don't worry all masked up - hopefully will be in primer next weekend - if the temps pick up.
     
  10. mwlehman

    mwlehman New Member

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    if you have any questions on painting ect..please do not hesitate to ask..I would be glad to hep

     
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