VFR 800 V-tec from 2002 Problems and questions.

Hi guys i recently bought me self lovely vfr800 from 2002 but bike is after small drop and try to fix it and start it and here is the problem. Everything turns on and engine is cranking but no fuel pump noise or starting. I check the Fuel pump be connecting battery strait to it and she start working. Any one have any ideas what to check or were to look? i m thinking that tip over sensor get stuck on the drop, maybe someone know how to check the tip over sensor or how to bypass it?

 

Hi and welcome to the MadHouse.

Digging straight in - what do you mean by a drop? A stationery tip over, a low speed slide whilst riding on the street, a full on crash? If it was just a "tip over" the sensor should reset automatically once the bike is upright again, but it is a good idea to cycle the ignition switch off to on to off at least once. Is the dash going through the usual pre start display or is anything unusual? Are there any MIL codes flashing on the dash?

As you are not hearing the fuel pump check the obvious - kill switch has not been knocked to the off position whilst you were getting the bike upright again. Also check the main fuse beside the battery has not blown. Hopefully the bike will now start.

If not eliminate issues with the safety interlocks by putting the bike in neutral, hold bike upright, raise the side-stand and pull in the clutch and try to start the bike. If the bike now starts investigate what element on the safety interlock system needs attention.

Hopefully you will get the VFR running again - if not start looking at the state of the battery and charging - if the volts are below a certain threshold the starter and fuel pump will not run, in which case charge the battery overnight with a proper motorbike battery charger - some car chargers can kill a motorbike battery. If the bike now starts then search on here for "the Drill" ..

Good luck - let us know how you get on and when you get a chance visit the "introductions" part of the forum and tell us a bit about you and perhaps include a photo of your VFR.

Take care ATGATT



SkiMad

 

Hi thanks for so fast replay, well i bouth the bike in state how you can see on the pictures, no side faring dented tank broken etc. And he just turns over dont want to start. I put new battery in and fully charged soo that shoudnt be issue, the ignition turned on normal check on the speedo cant see any errors lights , will try to check kill switch and fuses and come back to you guys. Thanks

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Wow, I don't know a lot, but that doesn't look like a "small drop" to me

I, too, have dropped my Viffer on its right side, and the damage done was a fairing that was a bit scratched due to stones and the clutch cover was roughed up, but that's all. The one you got looks like it was in a crash of some sort since the left fairing took some damage to the indicator and the right side on the clutch cover is scraped away.

With that in a crash, there might be some electrical problem, if you ask me. The ECU is on the right hand side way up in the front, while the ABS-system (if it has one) is on the left side at the same location. Maybe that helps you out?
Anyhow, I wish you the best and good luck, man! Hopefully you'll save that Viffer

 

Wow that is a bit more battered than I had assumed.

So here are a couple of links which may help you home in on the fault..

http://www.lifford-cooke.com/motorbiking/documents/VFR VTEC PGM-FI Diagram 2002.pdf

http://www.lifford-cooke.com/motorbiking/documents/VFR800FI Charging and Starting.jpg

Let us know how you get on.


SkiMad

 

hi guys, had bit of time today and do some work, when i bridge the "engine stop relay" and "fuel cut-off relay" bike starts up and runs fine. Now is the question why those relays are cuting off.

 

Sorry - It is never going to be possible to remotely answer your question. You would need to use the schematics linked above and work methodically with a test meter to identify the problem(s). Whilst it is reasonable to assume you are only looking for a single (common mode failure) problem, given the current state of the bike, there is a risk that more than one problem may be at play.

Which brings me to a perhaps more pertinent observation. Does it make sense to do any more?

If you are lucky, someone looking for a replacement engine might give you £500-£750 for what you already have - especially now that you can show a buyer the engine running. However a quick check on Bike Trader shows you can pick up a newer ready to ride 6th Gen without any accident history for £1895 - with no work needed at all.

You really need to write down and cost everything which will need to be fixed, and then decide whether it makes sense to spend any more money or time on the bike?

Remember you will be spending a heap of cash and time (which you will never get back) to bring your damaged VFR up to similar spec and then get it through an MOT test. Even then it will have the stigma(and lower price) of being a crash damaged vehicle - which you are now legally obliged to declare if you ever sell it.

However that is assuming there are no structural issues with the bike. If you are not a qualified motorbike repair technician I would strongly advise that before you do anything else you at least get a technician to check the bike over. Sadly from those photos I really have doubts over whether it makes sense to fix that bike.



SkiMad

 

Looks like a category C insurance job ?

 

One man's junk is another man's treasure....and I don't mean that in an anatomical sense

 

Hi. Yes thats cat c salvage. I like to bring bikes back on road, hate to see nice bike in junk jards rusting away... on bottom few bikes i bring back to life.

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Exactly my point - finding some parts for 6th Gens is already getting problematic especially anyone looking for matching OEM fairings in decent condition. Anyone who is really hooked on their current 6th Gen and envisages they will still be running it for another 10 years plus, may already be on the look out for a suitable parts bike.

Sadly apart from being a source of a replacement running engine, Mariusz's bike is probably of little interest, although he might find someone willing to buy it if he sorts out the starting issue and bungs on a cheapo Chinese fairing kit even if they are usually a nightmare to fit and look pretty naff close up.

Meantime I suspect that much of that damage would have been avoided if the bike had just been fitted with decent R&G frame sliders.

 

Hi guys, had bit of time in the weekend and take closer look at the bike and find out one plug on the left side of the bike was bit crushed so i put new ones in and check rest of the electrics connections etc. Find out that ale cables connections to relays fuses and fule pump works fine. Just the engine stop relay is not geting the possitive feed from ECU and the dash board dont shows FA light when turning bike on. Can it be that bike(hiss) dont read the key and thats why its not working? How i can check if the hiss is working fine with the key or by pass it to check if that the actual problem. I only have one key for the bike and dont want buy whole ecu key ignition set.... regards

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Provided you have a correctly matched HISS key I have never heard of a case where a HISS system fault has prevented a motorbike starting.

Lets just hope the key you have is not the problem or the viability of your project just went out the window.

There is NO way to by-pass and start a HISS equipped motorbike - apart from ripping out and replacing at enormous expense the entire HISS system ECU with a new set of matched keys and locks.

Inherently Honda designed the HISS system to prevent anyone without a suitably paired HISS key ever starting the bike with that ECU fitted.

Whilst there are plenty of firms who can cut a key to match a lock barrel - so things like the seat lock will work fine, even Dealers cannot pair additional keys with the ECU if you do not have at least one key which is suitably paired to that ECU key available. I think there is also a limit of 4 paired keys on the ECU, so if that limit has already been reached, then extra keys cannot be added without disabling one or more of the keys currently paired to the ECU.

The HISS security design was intentionally made prohibitively expensive and as a result HISS equipped VFRs of minimal interest to bike thieves as they know it is impossible to hot wire a HISS equipped motorbike.

If you want to check your key is valid then a trip to a Honda dealership should allow them to quickly confirm whether the current key is paired to that bike. If not then you need to be asking some serious questions of whom ever sold it to you...

 

i dont know any more will need to give the bike to a good mechanic who doing electrics as hiss lights coming off when turn they to on possition. but when i turn the key to on position the FI light dont lights up and maybe thats the problem.

 

I bridge the engine stop relay on the black-white cable with positive and fi light come up and fuel pump prime. I check the FI fault memmory and its says 2 and 9 flashes.

 

OK those flashes represent PGMFI fault codes which are all listed in section 5-11 of the 6th Gen Service Manual.

I am guessing that the "flashes" are all the same length and short (as there is no code 29)
This suggests you have two fault codes being displayed a 2 code and a 9 code

Both relate to sensors or related hoses/wiring faults. one for the IAT and the other for the MAP sensor.

I guess given the accident damage you should not assume stuff is OK, but is an expensive game just fitting new parts.

Hopefully in both cases either during or after the accident connections to these sensors have come adrift and will work once you connect them back up correctly.

 

Hi guys finaly find what was wrong with the bike. After fixing smashed plug i start checking all wires and connections and find out that black/white and few others cables was slightly cut in a loom just few cm from a plug(im questing when bike droped somethink spab in it and cut them). After fixing them everything start working like it should. The FI faults come on as someone disconect the plug on the pressure sensor and disconnect air filter pressure hose and blank it. Bike now wait for new fairings and back on the road.

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If that’s a category C write off the wheel alignment needs to be checked before you ride it

 

Already did that im good with mechanic part just hate electrics problems

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hi, guys i come back as i get new problem today, as when i turn on the lights engine cut offs, bike runs fine on lights off but can see its lossing leectric power when indicator is on... im questing a short or losee connector in the harnes but do you guys know any common placces to start with? i heard that thay had some kind of a recoil of front headlight harnes or some wire burn out any ideas? regarsd