squirrely

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by larry tom, Sep 26, 2019.

  1. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    I'm going use my dial indicator to check for any run out and to see if the rim is true.
     
  2. sudolea

    sudolea New Member

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    I find it a little difficult (as a non-native English speaker) to distinguish the exact difference between a corner or a sweeper ? Anyhow, when I notice it most, it's in the tighter kind of turns (with more-than-usual lean angle) where I have a speed of around 40 to 80 km per hour (say 30 to 50 mph). So it's noticeable the most on mountaineous roads (and bents).
     
  3. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    The few of too many variables to conclude anything on a motorcycle forum not talked about is the "bump" size, kind and depth, the radius of the turn, the bike speed, lean angle, and the list goes on and on. The first thing I would do is avoid bumps in turns whether there is a problem or not. Kind of like asking why my bike loses traction when there is sand in a turn....maybe. This is entertaining if nothing else.
     
  4. sudolea

    sudolea New Member

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    Just like the best way to avoid a motorbike accident is not riding one in the first place :confused:
     
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  5. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    When I say sweeper, think of an expressway on or off ramp and corner is more like 90 degree turn. I'm located in Chicago. There's no twisty roads here. You would have to go out on Sheridan rd. up north or go westward away from the city. I've ridden the bike only a few times. Once when test riding the bike, the other was getting it home after purchasing. The third time out I was on Sheridan rd. near or in Glenco IL. It's happened 2 times once when riding it home and the 2 was on Sheridan rd.

    Just about the same in terms of speed, maybe a little higher. When it happens I'm not looking down at the speedo. I'm concentrated more on the handle bars than the speed.
     
  6. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    Ok, first time I was doing maybe upper 50's mph on a curved on ramp to expressway. I hit a few bumps and that's when it started to wobble for a second or two. I was leaned over with the bike, my body was not at any time leaned off to the side of the bike. I'm up right with the bike although at an angle. Second time was at lower 40 mph in a sweeper. Sorry, but I'm not the type to go back and measure the bumps. I've been down Sheridan rd many times with the f4i and never encountered that issue.

    Is that enough info for you or would you like to tell me the exact issue that needs to fixed. You should change your name to Sherlock Holmes.
     
  7. sudolea

    sudolea New Member

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    So in my case I'd rather describe it as occurring in a turn, whereas your case seems to be rather in sweepers. I have the impression we're not exactly observing the very same behaviour. When you experience it, do you notice the handlebar wobbling ? (I don't, I rather feel the complete bike -gently- wobbling)
     
  8. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    More of the handle bars wobbling, at least I haven't notice the whole bike doing it. Tomorrow might be rather nice here. If I can get a couple of friends to lend a hand, I'll check out the suspension.
     
  9. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I think you need to stop riding that bike until you find out what is causing this and if it is safe to ride like that. I really don't think so. I would hate to hear that you lost it trying to figure this thing out and find yourself being nursed by some beautiful nurses catering to your every need.....wait, I will stop with that. But you get it don't you?

    I am certainly no bike tech but using reasoning only, I suggest it is either something in your forks, or something in your suspension. Seeing as this only happens when you are in a sweeper and after you have hit some sort of bump, whether is is debris or maybe a hump in the concrete surface, I am thinking one of your front shocks is the culprit. My reasoning to go with that is that it happens after the bump. A bump has an immediate affect on your shocks. If both shocks behaved the same and as they are designed to do, I doubt there would be a wobble. However, at a deficient shock, or a broken one, or leaking one or what ever, now you have an imbalance that could very well create the wobble. How to you stop this wobble from continuing? If it is to slow down dramatically or stop, then this only strengthen my thoughts that it is a shock issue because you have allowed to settle down.

    With a car, you can have totally worn out shocks and drive in a straight line on a really smooth road at whatever speed you want practically, and be fine. Add a bump to this, or cornering, or stopping and the car starts bouncing like an 80 year old lady's boobs dancing to YMCA.
     
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  10. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    i tend to agree with our randy. if your front wheel and tire check out, you'll need to drain, flush, and refill the forks with the proper amount of ATF
     
  11. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    Thank you for your concern as well to others on this forum. I do hear you on this issue. I'm just riding the bike a few blocks away from where it's currently stored, so that I can check out all that I can. I want to check out the sag/head-wheel bearings/wheel rim/tire pressures. If I have to I was thinking about rebuilding the forks with this kit http://daughertymotorsports.com/product/02-09-vfr800-bd20-fork-cartridge-kit/. Has anyone here used these on their VFR and if so how did it turn out? I've never taken a fork apart any experts in the area 'Chicago'. I did however take the forks off of my f4i to replace the dust boots a week prior to it being stolen.
     
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  12. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    I'll have to check out some youtube videos on doing that.
    Thank you for the advice
     
  13. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    There's slight movement from the head bearings when rocking the forks back and forth. There's no binding in the handle bars, so hopefully the bearing nut just needs adjusting. I had to order that special socket from ebay for that nut 'it's shipping from the UK'. I hope it doesn't take to long to get here. The wheel bearings and rim are good to go. Tire pressures are on spot 'front 36, rear 42 cold'. The rear suspension was springy, I was going to adjust the spring tension but the tool kit was MIA. The chain is at it's end, now I have to order a chain and sprocket set.
     
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  14. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    check your FSM: it indicates that steering head bearings should be serviced at 16,000 miles........i believe.
     
  15. larry tom

    larry tom New Member

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    I guess he skipped that inspection.
     
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