Alright, alright, alright ...

Continuing on my preventative maintenance quest ....

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Well, somebody's going to have some fun!

 

I installed the FIWU and thermostat this weekend. Straight forward pretty much. Took my time so I couldn't give you a time frame. I wish I had the time (and patience) to do a write-up. I've done some for a few bikes, but that was some years ago. In any event, I took pictures and am open for questions if needed. I did resync the throttle-bodies simply because of the removal and as a precautionary if anything happened to get shifted by removing and moving things. I did find two of the lower clamps on the intake boots loose due to screws not being tightened down. I'll attribute that to whomever worked on it last. Things happen, this I know and it's always good to check where and when you can.

I also took time to clean the K&N air filter and re-oil. It was quite nasty, but not the worst I've seen.

Bike starts and runs great. Now, she used to upon cold start-up idle upwards of 2500 rpm sometimes higher before settling down about 2 minutes later to the set idle of 1200 rpm.

Now, with the new FIWU there is no high idle on start up. It's pretty much the same 1200 rpm right from the start. Since I still learn about the bike little-by-little, my question is if that is normal? Was I just used to the abnormality of high idle? Is the assumption that there is now proper balance between the starter valves from open to close?

Thanks for any input!

Here's some process pics:

 

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Third last pic..... would that not be your adjustment for fast idle on the end of the FIWV? When cold of course...

 

That was me removing the plastic cylinder from the cradle with a flat head screwdriver. The nut is preset at the factory and recommended to not be adjusted.

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The wax unit is intended to hold the starter valves open when cold, and drop them back to rest on the idle adjuster screw when warmed up. I'd suggest that if the cold idle is only 1200rpm then the unadjustable nut on the wax unit shaft needs to be moved to open the starter valves a little more. This is a bit of a topic on the ST1300 owners forum as well, and in spite of the "factory-set" nut position, owners report cold fast idle anywhere from 1500 up to 3000 as delivered.

Of course if your bike is starting and running happily at 1200 then you could leave it as-is, but that would be increasing the warm-up time.

 

The 06 should idle at about 1200 when warm. I have read somewhere I don't recall where, that a wax unit is pre set and they put some sort of paint on the screw to avoid people adjusting the unit after factory set. The adjustment for the idle on the 06 is black plastic knob on the right side. Pull the knob out, adjust as you need to and push the knob back in.

Your bike looks pretty clean for an 06. Wished mine was that clean. Then again it has been ridden in some real shit weather over its life.

Maybe I should change my thermostat before I head up to Alaska this summer. Mine is original to the bike and it is very high mileage. Odometer has turned twice now so I am probably due for a new one.

Carry on!

 

Warm idle is fine and at about 1200. I'm just noticing after installing the brand new FIWU that the cold idle is just about where warm idle is. Yet with the old FIWU the cold idle seemed really high. Again, maybe not a problem, but I like to be comforted. Anyone wanna snuggle? Lol!!

Yes too, in the factory service manual there is a sidebar that states not to adjust the nut on the top.

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Perhaps when cold, move the starter valve lever manually... if it speeds up, and you like it, you'll be turning that nut.... rules can be broken if it's not right... if Honda was so intent you can't adjust it, it wouldn't be a nut, it'd be something more permanent. It's just a fast idle after all......

 

Yep. I may have to do that. I did it slightly with the old one a few months ago. Starting her this morning the idle was low, about 1000. But I knew the idle was set right, so I just temporarily kept the idle up around 2000 until the temperature read over 100. She idled fine after that and the ride in to work was great. So adjustment will be needed it seems.

 

PS - Further continuing with preventative maintenance, I ordered a new fuel filter, return filter and FPR.

 

That "return filter" isn't a return filter, it serves an anti-splash anti-foam function for the bypassed-and-returned fuel flow from the fuel pressure regulator whenever the fuel level gets really low in the tank. This helps the returned fuel to (quickly) pool in the lowest part of the fuel tank so the fuel pump pickup can reliably grab it.

 

Yes I know. But it's labeled as a fuel filter return. Just calling it by it's given name. LOL

 

Tidied up under the tank a bit. Originally I had just taped off the end of the tube coming from the bypass control solenoid after disconnecting it from the flapper valve diaphragm. Now it's gone along with the solenoid too. Gone is the vacuum can too. Also removed the entire pair reed hoses and solenoid and capped off at the valve covers and intake box. ... Yey me! ...

Next, moved on to replacing the fuel filter and return. Found a little bit of junk below the mesh and under the pick-up screen, but nothing to write home about. Then went on to replace the fuel pressure regulator. No news there; straight forward replacement.

Lastly, I installed a Pro-tek lowering link. I have used these before, hell I've even made a few back when I had my speed shop. Now I am 100% flat-footed which is my comfort zone. Before, just by flipping the triangles I got it to where my heels were just barely on the ground; but this still squeezed 'the boys' a bit at the seat. Now, I have better stability and not so much pressure at the crotch, LOL!

Pics ....





















Sure looks purdy without all that emissions crap .......

 

.... and the lowering link. The beauty of this is the adjustability, and without removing it. Also, you're not stuck with just one ride-height. I forgot to mention too, I'll be modifying the side-stand to accommodate the height difference too.




Comparison to stock link (not adjusted obviously):

 

So after a couple days of riding (just to and from work), the lowering link is a success. I was going to modify the side stand, but I found a seller on Ebay willing to let his go for $20 shipped. Really well done too with welding spot on. Great deal. Bike now leans better after being lowered. Very happy camper here.