Eliminating Linked Brakes 6th gen

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by CaptGarvin, May 11, 2018.

  1. vVertigo

    vVertigo New Member

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    61F0A4AA-F137-4849-8680-A39569D6F25D.jpeg
    The F4i m/c makes a big difference but I’ve only got two pistons going until I can get a short banjo line to bridge all three, or the drill method. Solved cruise control problem by installing relay so cc can work around the led brake lights.
    But I’m a believer now, delink and braided lines have changed the character of the bikes braking to a higher level.
    Lights I ran before going all led might have been drawing too much thru one of those sorry connectors, pic is the connector from stator to rr, how did it even work.
     
  2. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    You nailed the "reasons why" of why the delink crowd have somewhat pushing you to go for the complete delink..... Its about character. That is truth. That is why many of us are stuck on VFRs, 5th gens, 4th gens too. (I know yours is a 6th. ) Its character. IMHO, the linked brakes numbed some character out of the bike. VFRs have that intangible quality of "soul" and character, and why I'm addicted and owned a version of them for the last 17 years...

    So, now on your future "to do" list, you will have to go with the complete conversion (F4i lowers + Honda calipers/MC) and upgrade the suspension with it too. Jamie Daughtry (DMr motorsports) is the go to VFR suspension guy. One ride after that job, and the light bulb should go off in your head - "oh, I get it now" The full character of the bike will be there.

    Again gang, above is the mantra of the delink crowd........ not knocking the others - still to each his own...
     
  3. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Highly recommend you search for the thread "The Drill" charging debug testing. You may as well fix what you need now in your garage. Or the side of the road...
     
  4. vVertigo

    vVertigo New Member

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    Already had the side of the road down soon after getting bike, melted fuse holder under seat, grounds failing at connectors after installing brighter halogen bulbs. Ran #10 ground wires up both sides of bike, and to rr, stator connector at time was ok. This was before I got the recall notice. Found the stator connector in bad shape while changing to led bulbs, getting good charging rates now even at idle after eliminating connector altogether.
    Fork change will have to wait, but love the brakes, especially being able to vary rear brake input if need them at all. Have to shorten rear m/c adjustment rod some more to shorten travel and still using only two pistons. Will adding third increase pedal pressure needed for same braking response, stay the same, or get better? Trying to get as much time getting use to delinked brakes before heading up to Dragon fo more drone video sessions. Thanks again for the input, Now that the bike has more character, just wish I had some.
     
  5. vVertigo

    vVertigo New Member

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    Had you tried just two pistons on rear before linking all three? Still looking to try all three instead on just the two outer using F4i rear m/c, but wonder what the difference in pedal feel, ie needs more pedal pressure, or hopefully more stopping with same pedal pressure?
     
  6. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    I never went just the two, Went full option first go.
    F4i, or in my case CBR250RR rear with three pistons feels spot on.
    Enough power without being too strong, but as much feel as you're going to get on a rear brake.
    I think if you just went 2 pistons with the F4i master, you wouldn't get as much power or feel, but you can try and see.
    At least it will still give you a better ratio then the stock one with 2 pistons.
    It is super easy to drill the third piston in, and then you only need one line.
    I don't know why people go hrough the trouble and expense of getting a link line when drilling is so easy. It's a 15 minute job.
     
  7. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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  8. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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    I would like to find out you drill the caliber,it seems like the best solution but I can’t work out how to do it, thanks.
     
  9. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    I removed caliper and backing plate (three bolts I think)
    Removed pistons using compressed air, then removed bleeder that's in line with the three pistons.
    Inserted a straight wire (very straight) through bleeder port to give you an idea on where the passage runs.
    Lined it up and drilled 3mm hole around center of piston chamber slowly until I reached the brake fluid passage.
    Then I bought a bolt (10mm from memory) and copper washer, cut bolt to length (very short) and plugged unused banjo bolt hole.
     
  10. CaptGarvin

    CaptGarvin New Member

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    I did something similar, was not as hard as I was afraid, and blocked second inlet as OZ VFR did. F4i rear master cylinder did the trick also, this forum helped me get thru this
    I can report that after nearly year of riding, and several weeks on the Dragon pushing limits that could not have done with linked brakes, it’s a different bike when riding aggressive, as said before the bike has a different character.
    The linked brakes probably saved my ass a few times in the early days, but as I learned to get more aggressive in hard turns, front end dive from hard front braking only, the anti-dive master cylinder causes middle piston on rear brake to actuate and causing rear tire to slip on occasion, and that didn’t feel good. Any rate I didn’t bother changing front forks, fine for me for know but who knows.
     
  11. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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  12. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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    Thanks,I think I know what you mean but if you have any photos or diagrams it would be great
     
  13. CaptGarvin

    CaptGarvin New Member

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    Wish had some pics myself taking this on, but I assure you once you get caliper apart as OZ describes its somewhat obvious where you need to drill, you miss a little should still open into flow channel, just don’t go too far, you’ll see it, if not just send me the bill
     
  14. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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  15. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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    Thanks for that makes me feel more confident about doing it.
     
  16. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    Sorry Bruce, no pics but it's pretty easy.
    Once it's apart you will get the idea.
     
  17. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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  18. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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    Thanks,with the help you and others have given me I’m ready to have a go.might as well answer the Delkivic
     
  19. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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  20. brucethebarstard

    brucethebarstard New Member

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    Sorry don’t know what happened, I was going to say that I was trying to decide between new headers and refurbishing my original ones.
     
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