No crank, no click

What could the problem be? Both likely culprits test ok.

 

The tests are not 100% conclusive. I have seen bad Reg/Rect test "good", and working units test "bad" (worked at a Honda dealer for 12 years). The best thing to do is to swap in another unit and see if the numbers change at all. I know that's not always an option for most people.

If your connectors are all good (not melted or corroded) and your battery leads are not corroded internally, I bet your Reg/Rect needs replacing. That is the most likely culprit on the 86 VFR.

This is all assuming your battery is 100% OK.

 

Yeah, I don't have the parts to do that lol.

My connectors were burnt and melted but I have since cut them off and directly connected them. Right now it's just wire nuts due to the testing but I plan to either crimp or solder them again next time I work on it.

The battery was new, just got it last week. Unfortunately was damaged in shipping and the breather tube snapped off so I'm waiting on another now. I guess I will find out if it was bad or not in a couple days.

 

i don't believe a stator will ever put out more volts than it was designed for so 70 AC volts is an excellent output, and it's the job of the r/r to reduce and control it.

 

I replaced my stock R/R with a SHINDENGEN FH020AA that I purchased from a breaker on e-bay.

With the stock R/R the voltage at the battery would drop from 13.2 at 3000 rpm to 12.5 at 5000+.
After installing the FH020AA, around 13 at idle, and 13.9- 14.3 at any rpm above idle.

 

This one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/REGULATOR-...N-MOSFET-Replace-FH012AA-FH020AA/162119233336

How did you do the wiring? If I remember right there are 4 wires exiting the R/R on the one I have now.

 

^^ $22 how long do you think that will last ?

 

Check your wiring diagram, the 4 wires out of the R/R may be duplication. Mofsets only need one power and ground.

 

Guess it depends who makes it, how they make it, and what parts they use. MOSFETS are dirt cheap https://www.mouser.com/Semiconducto...rs/MOSFET/_/N-ax1sf?P=1z0y3zrZ1yw76deZ1yw78j5 According to the data sheet it's 3 MOSFETs and 3 diodes https://www.ducati.ms/threads/mosfe...heets-anyone.157945/#lg=thread-157945&slide=2 You could make your own for $25, but that's a bit more work than I'm willing to put in.

This is why I ask, I'm not a mechanic. The price varies widely for that model, how do you know what is what?

 

Anyone?

As for the gas tank...I brought the tank home and everything that I can actually see looks really good but I can't get my camera in to the area that has the rust. It appears to be a very small crevasse. Would it be a good idea to use tank sealer like Kreem on the inside just in that one area? I can't figure out how to get the petcock and the tubes/screens out so if they don't come out doing the whole tank is out of the question. In the first image you can see where it's leaking on the outside. It bubbled the paint and I cleaned it off. Second image is looking in the top of the tank, and the other 2 are on the inside where the leak is from my endoscope.

 

If its leaking you'll need to seal it but personally I wouldn't use Kreem (never heard good things about it) I've used Por15 with great results. Good prep is key to success.

You'll need to coat the entire inside surface of the tank, if you dont it will peel off.

Ive successfully coated a VF1000R tank, you cannot remove the internal fuel lines from those either. I solved this by blowing compressed air through the internal pipes after I put the Por15 in. The other trick is that you need to be careful how much product you put in because once its in you cannot drain the excess off like you can with a tank where you can unscrew the petcock and pipes.

You need enough to coat the entire inside surface of the tank but no so much that you have pooling and too thin of a coat in the bottom.

 

this chit is better than POR i think:

https://motowheels.com/i-8678003-ca...bn4kn9E7Mb7VS9sjR4_i0ou2BRDMq-eBoCf7oQAvD_BwE

 

Link for Diodes

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/33063322227.html

 

Go to Roadstercycle. He talks about the "fake" units. Personally I want to do it one time and right. How much would you pay for a genuine working unit out in the middle of nowhere?

With the amount of bikes I have, I would love to stumble upon the cheap solution. But that solution is probably short term and repeating.

I had 4 1986 VFR stock R/R sitting on my bench yesterday, and not a "good" one to be seen. I installed the "best" one in the RC26 so I could at least do a few local shake down rides before winter. One is for sure toast, allows over 17V on every bike I installed it on. That one came out of my 86 VFR700FII and had ruined a new Motobatt before I realized it. The one that originally came out of the RC26 I hadn't soldered in yet and was just starting to melt the plug. That one might be ok after stripping the wires back and re-testing on the bike before soldering.

I am installing volt meters on all of my bikes now too.

 

Voltmeter is surely a good idea, if these things are so flakey
How about a shunt and a amp meter too


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Got a link to what you are using?

Thanks but I ended up buying this one a couple weeks ago because I could clearly see what it was labeled as. I see a lot of ebay listings that say it's an S3H-02 (including the first one I bought) but then when you look at the pics it's an IIIB-02 (reversed polarity) or they don't show the front with the model number.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicon-Re...or-Honda-31700-124-008-1976-2014/203100523125


I attached some pics of the bottom of the gas tank cleaned up. I'm assuming they put the putty on there because it was leaking somewhere.

Another question about the tank...straycat said it will peel off if you don't do the whole tank but how do you coat this tank without getting the tubes.screens out? The reserve screen is basically touching the bottom. Since it's in a small crevice do you think it would have a better chance of not peeling off and making a good seal?

 

On my vf1000R, I used compressed air through the external fuel line holes at various intervals during the coating and drying process to keep the pipes clear. its also key not to put too much tank sealer in them, you dont want a pond of sealant in there.

or


If the part of the tank your trying to seal is easily accessible with a tool/pick I guess you could try and seal just that one spot, and if it fails, pick it out and re-seal the whole tank (?)

In either case make sure your tank is super clean, or the crevice is super clean. you may need to use some suitable chemicals if you cant get in there with a reliable way to sand it clean. I went extreme on my tanks, used muriatic acid followed by a neutralizer and then the cleaners that came with the tank liner kit. Be VERY careful with acid's as they are very aggressive and you may open up more "holes" if there are some weak spots you're not aware of. Also be careful of what you breathe in or get on your skin. exercise caution.

 

That soldering is just horrendous, what a bodge up, and I thought the previous owner of my bike was a danger


VF1000F2F, in bits