No Power

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by kevlar750, Dec 13, 2020.

  1. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Someone cut the ignition wires on my '02, Red Sonja. I have since connected the wires but there is no power going to the ignition. I tested with my meter and there's nothing going to the wires. The main 30A fuse is good. The wiring diagram shows "main A" and "main B". Where is the second main fuse located? Is it in close proximity to the other main/battery? Any help please. I need to ride her! It has been almost 4 weeks!

    Thanx

    [​IMG]

    kevlar
     
  2. fink

    fink Member

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    A simple google
     
  3. Grum

    Grum New Member

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    Main Fuse A 30amp is what feeds your Ignition Switch and is the Fuse that's on your Starter Relay. Main Fuse B 30amp is located near your starter relay and this feeds all your EFI stuff, via the Engine Stop Relay. With the way those wires are cut I'd be surprised if they didn't touch frame and blow Main Fuse A 30amp. Are you sure this fuse is not blown?

    So follow the 12v path from your battery to Main Fuse A. Test the top of the Fuse with your meter make sure you have 12v both sides of the fuse (small metal test points on the top of the fuse). Have your meter black lead on the battery Negative Terminal. The solid Red lead from fuse A exits from the plug at the Starter Relay and goes to the Ignition Switch Bat1 and Bat2 connections of the switch OR just Bat1 depending on what version you have.
    Follow this path on your circuit diagram.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2020
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  4. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Thanks for the information. I checked everything around the battery area and found the second fuse, which actually turned out to be Main A. Both A+B fuses are good and have 12v running through them. I guess I'll need to tear all the plastics off and dig in deep!
    At least you pointed out the fuses to me so now I'm not going in totally blind.
    Thank you very much for the help. I'll re-post on here when
    /if I find and repair the problem.
     
  5. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    I know where the fuse box is located. I don't have ABS so only on the right side. That's the first place I checked; all is good there.
    Thanks for responding. 160 views and only 2 replies!
     
  6. fink

    fink Member

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    Please dont reply in blue its fecking hard to see. White or standard forum colour is much easier on our old eyes. :).

    Next step is to check the RED wire, that is the main feed from the battery is there is no power on that then the fuse has gone.


     
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  7. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Ok. Bold black from now on. I replied in blue on the other post before I saw this one.
     
  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Says Cookie Monster
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Grum

    Grum New Member

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    image.jpeg
    If you are completely sure Main Fuse A is ok..... (The 30amp Fuse on your Starter Relay)

    Then have you confirmed the 4P plug for the Ignition Switch is actually plugged in? This and the plug at the Starter Relay are the only connections between your Main Fuse A and the Ignition Switch!

    Note the spade connection for the Red wire at the Starter Relay can suffer badly from overheating and high a resistance connection, so have a close look at the Starter Relay plug/connector. See photo.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2020
  10. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    I will definitely check that, if I can find it! How close is this to the battery compartment? I have yet to disassemble anything else due to working too many hours. Your picture looks like it's near the battery. Those other wires going into the connecter look familiar.
    Thanx for continuing to assist me! You have been a breath of fresh air!
     
  11. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    disconnect the battery before doing any work.
     
  12. Grum

    Grum New Member

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    Mate you are confusing me. Are you referring to the Starter Relay, the 4p Plug for the Ignition Switch or the plug for the Starter Relay as to the closeness to the Battery?
    - Assume you know where the Starter Relay is because you stated you have checked Main Fuse A!!
    - If the above is correct then you should be able to easily see the connector ON the Starter Relay that houses the RED wire as per my photo!! It will also have the Yellow/Red and the Green/Red wires in this plug!
    - If you are referring to the Ignition Switch 4p plug then that is located not far away from your Ignition Switch!
    Please be more specific!

    I'm beginning to feel a little concerned as to your repair of these Ignition Switch wires! Have you matched them wire to wire? Have you properly soldered and sleeved or used heavy gauge in-line splices properly crimped?

    NOTE - I noticed your wires also have a Pink Wire this is a very important anti theft wire and it sends 9 volts to your ECM to enable it. If the ECM sees 12v or No volts on this wire the ECM will not fire up = dead bike! Something to be aware of. (There is a Zener Diode mounted under your Ignition Switch that supplies the 9volts to this wire).

    YOUR MAIN OBJECTIVE IS TO HAVE 12v ON THE RED WIRE AT THE IGNITION SWITCH.

    AND change your text color to white - Black or Blue is crazy! Too hard to read.

    And as Squirrelman stated - While working on the Ignition Wires have your battery disconnected OR at least Remove the Main Fuse A from the Starter Relay! As the Red wire is HOT i.e. unswitched directly from your battery positive terminal up to your Ignition Switch.

    Let's know how you how you get on.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2020
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  13. fink

    fink Member

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    This is spread over 2 posts as well.
     
  14. Grum

    Grum New Member

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    Hi Fink.
    Guess you can see I'm new to the forum! Why on earth would the op create this in two forums? Can sure confuse new members like me and to make a mess of diagnosing a fault! Strange.
    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2020
  15. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Ok.
    1 - I was using blue/black font because I had the light background; not default dark. Since has been changed. How about yellow? I like being different. Hey, I'm left-handed!
    2 - I posted in both forums because the first one wasn't getting any views, let alone replies. Will from now on stay in this forum. Sorry if that confused anyone. (really?)
    3 - Where the wires were cut, there is no voltage, 12 or otherwise, coming from the power source. I performed a quick connect for temporary and troubleshooting purposes. I will solder properly once this is solved.
    I understand how current works, whether it's AC or DC. Based on the wiring diagram, I know the "red" wire should be HOT where the cut was made and it is not! And, both 'main' fuses have tested good. If I'm understanding the diagram, that red wire supplies power to the clock, which is working and always has been working. My educated guess is that something went wrong AFTER it splices to the clock. Please correct me if you feel I'm in error. This is why I will be tearing things down starting tomorrow---in about 8 hours.
    Again. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to try and help me. Hopefully, for all of us, there will be no more confusion.

    Is this the 4P connecter you're referring to?
    DSC_0097 (4).jpg


     
  16. Grum

    Grum New Member

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    image.png
    OK. If your clock is working then that at least confirms your Main Fuse A is ok. Your picture shows the starter relay with the main fuse A to the left and to the right in the neutral coloured case is Main Fuse B.
    The 4p plug I'm referring to for your Ignition Switch will be near the Ignition Switch. It allows you to unplug the switch from the main harnes and remove the switch. If the switch isn't plugged into this connector it would explain why your clock is working and have no voltage at the RED wire at the switch. See attached drawing of Ignition Switch and the 4p plug. IS THIS PLUG CONNECTED?
     
  17. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Can this plug be accessed without pulling all the bits off? I see or feel no connectors in the area of the ignition switch. "Ignition switch" is where the key is inserted, right? Or am I way off?
     
  18. fink

    fink Member

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    The ignition lead can be about 12 inches long. Your best bet will be to take panels off. If you have a look at the front few pages of manual you will see the line drawings. In one of them you will see it shows the location of the ignition switch connector. From there you will be able to deduce which panels you need to take off.
     
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  19. kevlar750

    kevlar750 New Member

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    Ok.
    I found the 4P connector: it is near the R/R. It wasn't unplugged but it WAS very loosely connected. Someone must have done work on it at some point and they didn't 'snap' the connector in to place properly. When the would-be thieves cut the wires they probably pulled on the loom and the connection was lost.
    VFR 4P connector.jpg

    I secured connection and turned on the key. WE HAVE POWER!!
    I soldered the wires, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape and we are ready to do some more work. I will eventually cover the loom with proper wrap.
    VFR wiring repair job.jpg

    Now that she is 'naked' I can do some more work. I need to figure out why she runs so hot. Hotter than she used to by about 20°F! Also need to replace the chain and sprockets. I received the set via FedEx the day after she was vandalized.
    VFR stripped.jpg

    Chain and sprockets now replaced. Went with 44t on the rear and kept the front stock. now gotta clean her up a little. We'll see if my son wants to earn some money.
    VFR new chain & sprockets.jpg

    I want to thank everyone for all your help and patience. Without your input I might not have done this myself. At least not for quite a while. I would have lost my mind trying to figure out where some of these wires/connectors are.

    Thanx Again. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!
     
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