Restarting my project VF500F from 2016

Wow, that is WAY over my head. Good work going on here!

 

Nice progress!

So... are the zip ties temporary to train the fender in to a new position? Cuz, if not, just trim the side skirts and radius the fender. Had to do it on my 500 Race Bike. If done right, the fender can still look stock.

 

Thanks Jim, I'm sure you have the determination to finish a project like this after all the hurdles in your own 500 resurrection.

I plan to drill two holes per side and run black zip ties to pull the fender out, but wanted to make sure everything had clearance before I put holes in my nice original fender.

 

This felt like I was holding an olympic gold medal. I didn't want to put it down.

All my little intake valves are still intact. They are pretty cute. The boots were so hardened, even with all of the clamps off, I think I could have lifted the whole bike by them if I had a way to grip them. They sounded like golf balls when I threw them in the trash. Can anyone tell me what these two hoses that vent from the carbs do? As far as I could tell they ran back towards the coolant tank and just stopped, not connected to anything.

Now for the real good news: despite the ugly appearance of the outside of the carbs, the insides were nearly spotless. I only took one float bowl off since I haven't really read a guide yet but the jets were totally clear, bowl looked great, and there was only the tiniest bit of red sediment in them which rinsed off fairly easily. They must have been cleaned in the couple of years before I bought the bike. I think I'll just have to give them a cleaning and blast some carb cleaner through the passages, then throw them back together. What luck!

 

Those hoses just vent the carbs to atmosphere. They go back and down to nothing on 49 State bikes.

 

Pretty lucky on the carbs. As others may point out, the o-rings on the external fuel delivery tubes (between the carbs) may be dry rotted.

Mine did not leak until I pulled the carbs off the bike. When I reinstalled them one of the o-rings leaked like all get out. Had to do major surgery to get to the o-rings. I guess it is hit or miss if they leak or not.

 

I cleaned the rest of the float bowl sides of the carbs today. One small jet seemed to be a replacement but they were all 35s and the main jets were all 90s. I thought these bikes had bigger jets on the rear cylinders. Can anyone tell me what size jets my 85 should have?
I'm not sure I'm going to bother taking the top halves of the carbs apart, I don't want to destroy the plugs that seal the airbox so that I can get to the screws, and based on how immaculately clean everything is I don't think there's anything to gain. All the slides go up and come back down nicely. The chokes all move evenly and I can see the little brass pieces move out of the way through the holes. Unless the fuel tubes start to leak I think my best bet is to just put everything back together when I get my new boots, see if it holds fuel and try to run it. The next time I take the carbs off it will be to have them professionally rebuilt, I just don't think I have the experience to attempt separating them from each other and all that goes with that.

 

Fingers crossed that all goes well!

 

Nice 911 in there too, don’t drop anything on it

And never put petroleum products on rubber parts you will speed up their demise

Bit of special red rubber grease on reassembly

But enjoying the read keep going


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Thanks Waylander, that's dad's 87 Carrera. I assume you're talking about the boots? I plan to use some Super Lube Silicone Lubricating Grease per NorcalBoy's recommendation on those.

 

A little bit of heat from a hair dryer or heat gun on low helps with install/removal.

Don't pry unless you have to , then be extra careful

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

I have a 92 968 coupe to go with the VF1000

Make a nice pair in the garage
Silicone grease is just as good, but don’t use it on rubber brake parts like piston seals, it will contaminate the brake fluid


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Got some time in at the folks' today. I cleaned the fuse panel and hit it with CRC QD electronics cleaner, and cleaned and reinstalled all the fuses. I seem to have lost the screws for the fuse panel cover. Then I took the old fuel filter out and plan to replace it. Is there a good source for new hoses from the fuel pump to the filter and from the fuel tank to the pump? I don't think standard 3/8 hose could negotiate those curves easily.
Lastly I took the bike off the jack stand and put it on the ground now that the front suspension is together. I can't believe how low and small it looks with no tank, fairings or other plastics on it.

By the way, the two little red hoses in that photo are the ones I'm asking about. Anyway, I lifted the back of the bike up on a paddock stand and took the rear wheel off for the first time. The Clymer manual does not explain that procedure well... I just pulled the axle all the way out instead of what they recommended. Then I removed the rear sprocket from the old wheel and tried to install it on the modified cush drive. Turns out, I didn't take enough off the OD for the bore of the sprocket to slip over, so I'll have to turn it again to a slip fit. I just learned that a friend of mine has a lathe so this should be no problem. He may also have a mill that I can use to finish my rear suspension mods.
I meant to take a picture but I guess the camera didn't focus in time, but there is another concern with the cush drive. It seems to be 159mm total diameter while the inside of the F2 recess is only 156mm or so. Should I be worried, or will it bottom out in there instead of being perfectly flush fit like it is on the old wheel? I should have taken a depth measurement to compare.
Thanks for reading, hopefully more carb, rear wheel and regular maintenance updates will come soon.

PS Waylander, I've worked on most air cooled Porsches and 944, 986, 987, 997 but never a 928. I've ridden in one though and it was a great GT car that felt like it wanted to cruise at 110mph. Just as it was designed to do on the autobahn.

 

I used the VF500 cush on one of my wheel swaps using a VTR1000F wheel (which uses the same cush as a F2). But I converted everything over to 20mm hardware for the VF1000R axle. I machined the inner cush spacer down 1 mm less than the stock 500 piece to suck the hub in a little more and reduce the gap (and sdjusted all of my math on the remaining spacers accordingly to maintain wheel and chain center). So I think I'm saying it should bottom out just fine with a small gap.

 

I own a 968 not a 928

But it’s coming along nicely,

spent the day welding up the plastic indicator mounts


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Thanks Cap, I'll try to put it together without shaving it down first and I guess if it doesn't go together I'll know what to do.

Waylander, I guess I never learned how to read lol. Never driven a 968 unfortunately. A great car by all accounts though.

 

Today I got the cush drive chucked up in a friend's small lathe and turned both the sprocket shoulder down to a nice slip fit and the OD down to just under the size of the wheel's ID. That OD, as it turns out, doesn't matter because the mating surface of the wheel bottoms out before the cush drive can slip into the recess. In short, it doesn't work like the VF500 wheel but it does fit and will work fine.
As you can see from the photo, the last person to work on this bike used the larger holes in the sprocket to mount the thing. This seemed to work but I'm not sure it's the right thing to do. I have only just noticed this while looking at the picture so I haven't looked to see if the small holes line up properly or not. No idea if this is an OEM Honda sprocket or not. Anyway... here are a couple of photos of the bike with both wheels on:


I think it's going to look great with a taller rear shock and all the panels back on. I do wish I had been more careful with the paint on the front wheel since I scraped the crap out of it on the hanging front calipers. I haven't checked to see if the chain lines up cause I want to clean it and the sprocket first, or checked to see if the chain guard hits the tire, or anything really. I only had time to throw it all in there, take a couple pics and go. I guess one thing I pretty sure of is that the rear caliper hanger is spaced properly but I need to make a brake stay for it.

 

Good job.

Are the other holes the correct size for the VF500 studs? Usually those aftermarket sprockets have both size holes so it fits more bikes.

 

That sprocket looks just like the JT Sprocket I mounted. If it is, then the small holes will line up.

 

Nice progress, thanks for the update!