My RC24 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Wheezy, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I bought this bike off my dad for the princely sum of £1. It used to belong to my brother but an electrical fault saw it stored away for the last 15 years. I’m hoping to work on it over the winter to have a summer fun bike. I’m aiming to use this project to practice and learn some new spannering skills. I have not got the indoor facilities for a full strip down and rebuild, but I’m hoping that I can improve the bike over the next few years, while it’s a runner.
    The V5 document has it as an ‘86 Gen 1 although first registered in ‘87 in a different country It’s a UK C plate registration. I believe that the colour scheme is possibly for the Japanese market?

    0ED0454E-053A-4398-8D04-7EC86E5DCDA9.jpeg
    Hoping to record the work that I do here and get some advice and info along the way.
    Thanks all.
     
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  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Yes those front indicators and the "cam gear train" fairing text most likely make this a JDM model. The instruments should also have a speed warning light that illuminates at 80 km/hr. The colour scheme was also used (I think) for US market 87 700s but they did not get a centrestand as standard, Japan probably did.

    Good luck with it, I'm working over a newly acquired 86 750 at present too.
     
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  3. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Hi Terry. Thanks for that. Yes, it has a speed indicator light on the dash, although disconnected.


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  4. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Good luck with the rehab. I arm wrestling registration issues, since my bike is from the UK originally...looks like you are missing your Government frame plate as well. I believe that is what those two dots (broken rivets) on the upper frame are. Please correct me if I am wrong.
     
  5. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Not quite sure what you mean by ‘govt frame plate holder’. In the UK we used to have to display a tax disc but that’s all gone online now, so we don’t have to display a physical piece of paper like we used to. That might be what the broken fixing points are for. All we have to display is the standard number plate on the rear of the bike.


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  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Frame off eBay

    vfr_plate.jpg
     
  7. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok, now I understand. TBH, not sure why that would no longer be on there or what happened to it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2021
  8. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Lets just say i got hosed at an auction house. cheap bike doesn't always equal cheap bike in California. :( VFR700F?
     
  9. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    RC26. Tariff beater from the Reagan era to save Harley. Large tax on bikes greater than 700cc. So everybody just came out with a 700 (698). Having a hard time coming up with the MSRP, but if you wanted the 750 you paid about $800 more, and in 86, that was a lot.
     
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  10. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I owned two 700's and a 750, can't say there was a lot between them in terms of performance. on road AFAIK the only changes made were to to the crank (shorter stroke) and conrods (longer to make up the height difference); pretty sure the rest of the motor is identical, as is the frame/body/running gear.
     
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  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I think the pistons were slightly different too, I've read a few times of people putting the 700 pistons in a 750 to bump the compression for a cheap race mod. But it could be the same false story being repeated.

    They are different part numbers for STD.
     
  12. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    Why is there no VIN plate?
     
  13. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Got me. People do weird stuff. I am thinking someone put my bike together with...uh...junk yard parts maybe? ;)
     
  14. sean p

    sean p New Member

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    Evening all, must be the season for projects! Recently picked up a 1986 rc24 import all original and in good condition runs fine but wants the carbs cleaning ( cant wait) but interestingly mine has no vin plate either just the two little rivets- very odd
     
  15. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Hey Sean. Start a new project thread and post some pics!
     
  16. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    totally, I would like to see a new project thread fo sho. Maybe you got the brother bike to mine. lol
     
  17. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    So I found my VIN plate finally. :cool:
    IMG_2629.JPG
     
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  18. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Stage 1 complete, in that I’ve finally had the bike delivers to my house.

    [​IMG]
    Genuinely don’t know where to start. T


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  19. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Not sure of your situation and knowledge, but I picked up my bike without a whisper of info so....
    I started by pulling tank, air box, oil, coolant and plugs. Make sure she turns over using the starter (just a tap on the starter, not lay on it. Helps with second person to verify piston movement).

    Cleaned, measured plugs and reinstalled once I verified non-seized engine along with no weird firing issues. Next was fuel pump with out tank. I had a small fuel can resting on the frame with the incoming fuel line from the pump submerged in the fuel can. Once I had solid verification of fuel pump action, next was to actually fire up.

    You can use almost any type of carb/brake/ether vapor to jump start a long time sitting bike. Just spray a little above the intake boots while hitting the starter and the carbs will suck in the vapor, it seems to always help me.

    From there it is all about carb action in my mind. Does the choke work? Will it idle without choke or with choke. Throttle response to small blips..etc.
    Does the temp gauge work? Exhaust leaks? that kind of stuff. My clutch didn't engage so I had to bleed that just like a brake line using the same brake fluid.

    Lights? Do they all work. Bulb vs wiring?

    Just my way of going through an unknown bike.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2021
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  20. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    You can download a manual from the other VFR site:
    https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index...6-service-workshop-manual-in-eng-deu-fra-esp/

    Looks like the first thing you need is a battery (YB-12AB), new plugs DPR9EA-9, oil filter (Hiflo HF303 or similar), 4 litres of 10W40 oil, 2.5L of coolant and plenty of patience. I'd suggest draining the tank and carbs of any old fuel before you try to start anything. New plugs and fresh fuel will at least take those items off the "why won't it start list". You can take off the right side access cover and put a socket onto the crank end and turn the engine over with no power, a little oil down each plug hole first wouldn't be a bad idea.

    I bet your carbs are badly gummed up, and the float bowl gaskets won't be re-usable so order new ones before you start, and maybe new inlet rubbers as well to make refitting easier. I'm on the fence about jets, the pilot jets are so tiny and easily blocked that new ones might be a better bet than cleaning old ones.
    With power, you can remove the fuel pump connector at the adjacent relay and put a jumper across the terminals and that will cause the pump to run, pretty obvious if it working if you discharge it to a bucket.

    Good luck, there's plenty of helpful souls here if needed.

    I've bought items from Wemoto who operate in UK and Australia. Boonstra Parts in Netherlands has a good 2nd hand selection too.
     
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