1996 VFR750 Clutch bite point

Hi all,

Firstly appologies if this has been done to death, I searched the forum but didn't find anything immediately relevant, I've tried to title this post so others with the same problem can find it easier.

I have a 1996 VFR750. I recently picked it up, had the pleasure of riding it home then parked it in the garage where its sat ever since. It has an electrical issue, I'm hoping is an easy fix and this clutch problem which I'm hoping is also a simple fix.

The clutch problem is zero bite point, I can pull the clutch to engage gear and the bike doesn't try to pull away with the clucth engage but there is no lever travel before the clutch disengages. Its like a switch. I was able to pull away from junctions with a bit of commitment and more engine speed and changing gear under way was a bit jerky but the torque of the motor allowed me to get away with it.

I assume its a hydraulic clutch, so could be lack of oil, air in the oil or just needs changing. Clutch plates could be dead but its not like the clutch slips, there is just no lever travel. Am i missing something, could there be something more sinister? I've not started to explore the problem, just gathering potential intel.

 

Its hydraulic.

From your description I suggest that flushing and bleeding the system (its outlet is just behind the gear-change side footpeg) will solve the immediate problem which is probably a tiny bit of gas in the old fluid in the system.

But... Its a 25 year old bike. So the rubber components in those cylinders probably need replacing sooner rather than later.

That symptom could also be caused by leakage around the master seal. Now that you are pulling it all the way back the seal will be riding on any grit in the bore too, which won't help it.

BTW when you do refurbish the slave, as well as the obvious rebuild kit with its seals and spring. You should also budget for either a new piston or an hour of very careful crud shaving and polishing of the existing piston. Some kits don't come with the end-of-piston oil seal that keeps the push-rod centralised. So watch out for that too. Since it doesn't "seal" anything as such you might be able to get away with transferring it to a new piston.

Speed Tip: Using a genuine brass, NOT brass coated steel, circular wire bush on a dremel-like flexy extension will make cleaning the slave's bore and seal slot very easy. Genuine brass cannot damage the steel of the bores, but it scrubs out the crud in a few seconds and saves a lot of work with picks and polishing. Use the dremel extension with nylon spiral brushes to reach the end of the master's bore and clean it just as quickly.

But I'd start with a good session of fluid replacement and take it from there. A cheap vacuum bleeder makes the job really easy.

 

Thanks for that, thats where my head was but always good to have it backed up. Given my current rate of progress it will be the new year before i get around to doing it but will post back how it goes.

 

There is one component in the clutch system that is very often overlooked. It directly affects the engagement point and is designed to wear and must be replaced periodically.



This lives in the clutch lever. They are almost always oval shaped when I service them on new-to-me bikes or friend's bikes. They are not cheap for what they are, but they are essential. Not saying that's your problem, but everyone needs to verify the condition of theirs.

BUSH
22885-MB0-006

 

My 98 at 90,000km had a sudden engagement point until I replaced the fibre discs in the clutch. Almost to the point of being a bit embarassing to ride as a smooth take-off was getting difficult to manage. After the new discs, the engagement point was much broader and smoother and I looked more or less competent to ride. I used EBC parts, and added new springs while I was there but I don't think these were really necessary.

 

whats the clutch fluid look like? have you removed the cover? is it like mud in there? Fluid flush at the old slave cylinder (we can still say that right?) may be your solution. You could have clogged up clutch master too in addition to your other problems. Start by cleaning out the master and fill it with fresh fluid then do the bleed at the slave cylinder, see where that gets you. You may need a new slave cylinder, not expensive and worth it compared to a rebuild kit (which always never worked out for me.) Keep us posted