The VFR that wasn't but now is.

No concern really. It would be aesthetics, which I get.

I wouldn't consider a hose clamp kit an "upgrade" though. And I would want a bead on the end of the now cut off metal tube which might prove difficult to achieve.

I say proceed for now with stock. Buy a set of cheap OEM oil lines off ebay to experiment on at your leisure.... y'know... when you're actually riding this thing.

 

back to my cave. I have been warned.

 

Well, it has taken me nearly 7 hours to get carbs 2 and 4 clean, re-jetted, and put back together. Fitted the new fuel tube o-rings, clean the fuel "t", and add the fuel hose + clamps from v4dreams. I need to add just a touch of o-lube to the o-rings since they don't want to go into the carbs nicely. Rese the float bowls to 9mm as recommended as well.

I also have two springs and a small bracket I need to figure out where they came from. Life got in the way so they are marked from which carb, but I need to cycle through instructions and photos to figure it out completely.

Carbs 1 and 3 are tomorrow I hope.

FYI, toothbrush and fuel work pretty damn well as a cleaning method! Also using my sonic bath for hardware and whatnots. Here is what I got sitting on the bench.

 

There are two thrust springs that sit between the throttle shafts and are just held in by pressure. Threw me through a loop trying to figure out where they came from when I first reassembled a set of V4 carburetors.

 

There’s a photo on Joes site @V4dreams.com specifically about the springs and their position

 

Finally got them all together.
125 in 1/3 carbs, 128 in 2/4 carbs.
#40 all around.
New float bowl o-rings, new pilot screw o-rings, new fuel tube o-rings, new fuel line to 3 way fuel thing , and new old fuel hose (from the hawk project) for carb air breather.
.5mm washers under needles.
Reseated and fastened plenum, synced choke mechanism. Mechanically synced throttle position.



Only 1 part left over, not good. This bracket.

 

nice job. how long did it take ? loose piece goes on front right carb top at 3 o'clock position to anchor choke cable. (small clip missing, also missing lock tabs)

i think you have it right but the rotational position of the air funnels must be exactly correct.

 

The squirrel is righteous…


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The bracket sits on the front right carb, one of the vacuum diaphragm screws holds it in place, it is where the choke cable anchor fits. It is the inner most screw (closest to the left carb). Pardon my crusty carb top...

I read that you set the float height to 9mm; on my RC24 the specified height is 7mm. I'd have thought 9mm will be leaning things off quite a bit I checked my plugs yesterday after a good flogging and they had a great colour (everything bog stock).

 

difference in float setting may be compensated by change to larger main jets, 118 in 1986 vs. 125/128

 

S-man . Took about 4.5 hours to clean carbs 1 and 3 and put it all together. I am going to revisit my float height. I eared on the high side of 9mm. I don’t have any other hardware that came off the bike so I will fit the bracket and figure out what it needs to make it useful.
stupied question, lower float height means more fuel in bowl?

thanks for the photo and general help. I will try a bench leak down on Thursday. I did order new isolator boots from CSM UK so it would be nice to have those before I bother going onto the engine.

Can’t stress enough the appreciation for all the help. Cheers

 

9mm=less fuel in bowl than 7mm.

bible says 9mm for '86 carbs, 7mm for later, like yours. no real explanation why.

i've made gauges for 7, 8, and 9mm settings, helps alot for consistency.

 

Prepare to win. I used to have that book.
Good idea with the cards.

Found the official call out of 7mm in 50thVFR addendum. I will reset tomorrow. Thanks 50!

Squirel- those rubber intake velocity stacks (?) in the plenum have a cutout for each object on the top of the carb. 2 x single cutout for mini tubes and 1 x 2 hole cutout for outer edge large single hole. They can only go in one way mechanically. If you don’t pay attention you can easily misalign the intake boot and damage the seal it would seem.

 

Great idea with the credit cards Squirrelman. I used some digital vernier calipers locked at 7mm. I was a bit sloppy and had them set a little less than first up that and the plugs were a bit sooty. I reset them to 7-7.1mm and the plug colour is spot-on now, a little tan on the insulators.

 

I use this little nifty Honda tool. Works great on all my bikes ….


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What was the float height when you stripped the carbs?

 

For the most part they were lower. a couple around 5-6 and 8-9ish for the others. Kinda random. I usually position my carbs so the bowl lid face is horizontal or facing up and then measure (like picture 1). I have seen some measurements taken while the bowl lid face is vertical (picture 2). Which one of these is the most correct way of measuring for these carbs? I use my good eye and my millimeter steel rule to measure.

#1

#2

 

While #1 might be common, it's not what I would do.

The carb should be rotated with the float "hanging" to just where the float valve seats, but the little button is not depressed, for measurement.

In #1, the weight of the float can depress the spring loaded button "damper" different amounts and give incorrect / inconsistent readings.