Stray7Hundie Rebuild ?!

So I saved (maybe?) this 1986 VFR700 from the junkyard. $500 for a titled runner. 47k
Starts, idles and runs, although there is a knock. Adding oil took the knock down quite a few notches, but I will do the valves this weekend since I am still waiting for my parts from the powder coater for my 750.
The frame is pretty damn nice (compared to mine) and it is running a beat OE exhaust. The fuel tank needs a paint job, but is 95% damage free and 100% rust free.
This just might be a part out, but for now it will join the herd of "waiting for love".
No uppers or sides, only rear plastic and a seat that is a good pan, but would need upholstery.

Behold!! Stray7Hundie

 

Not bad for $500! Shit I would have picked that bad boy up !


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So i got this far in 20 mins from the above picture. I was concerned the subframe was bent since the bike had seen the ground on both sides, but to my amazement, the seat lock cross-member was within 16th of an inch in height so apparently the morons that put on the aftermarket blinkers not only killed the rear tail light (drilling through the red lense) assembly but made the bodywork sit crooked. Small win.
Need a new tail light lense.
Next is to remove all the smog equip. I saw in another Gen 3 post, Capt removed all the gear. I will need to figure out what to plug and what to leave. I imagine it will be similar to my Hawk, but I shall see.
I actually started with the exhaust because it looked super janky. Apparently, someone cut off the original exhaust for maybe a slip-on. Only to put the OE back on with some sort of sleeve and exhaust wrap. Since I will be purchasing a welder soon (hopefully) this looks like a perfect experiment for my skills.


I will in the meantime, use some steel clamps along with the exhaust wrap to put it back together for tuning purposes. It is so loud I cannot hear the internals run. Aiming for valve adjustment by tomorrow afternoon. Obviously, a coolant flush since I need access to the front valves.
This bike needs a lot of love, but I am not going to replace everything if the engine doesn't sound good internally. I guess we shall see tomorrow. Nite peeps.

Oh and i decided to pull out the Airtec upper (RC30) and see how it looked sitting over the current headlight. F me, if I can get that to fit well..shit just got real.

And I am still holding out for nearly the entirety of my 750 metal back from the powder coaters..bastards.

One more thing..lol. Since I went with F2 wheels on lil red, I can use the 17" OE front on this guy if I don't part out.

 

Good luck with it, hopefully the engine can be saved

 

Yeah I would have nabbed that too. Cool.

Also, no-go on the front wheel. The disc mounts on the Euro wheel are too wide for the 86 forks / triples. That's why you don't have to change triples or machine the F2 wheel to fit it up on the 88 VFR.

You can however bolt up a 600 Hurricane front wheel and your rear Euro wheel for a matching set of period correct 17"s.

 

Oooooo
behind schedule today, I think with a beer I can do the valves tonight.

torn boot anyone?

also is the an easy to plug and not plug for cal smog?

 

Thanks capt. minimum invested until I fire the bike up again. Nobody wants a hurricane wheel except for me
Might have to do insulators just to fire up. Lol

 

Hmmm
One oily and the other slight water corrosion

 

De-Cal is very easy on these.

On the carbs, 4 vents that you can just pair up and connect to each other, and 1 oddball vacuum port that needs to be sealed with a quality plug / cap.

There's a larger port on the Airbox that gets plugged too.

 

Yes a good quality plug not superglue like some ex owner of one of the bikes I bought did.... Mike I sent you a PM

 

Didn't hit me until I pulled all of the plugs, but both of the "uphill while on kick stand" plugs were corroded. the other two were oily. just coincidence or head gasket leakage? There is a little buildup down in the holes of the two corroded, but not insane. These felt a little too easy to remove as well. No anti-seize was present.
When I do a manual turnover of the engine it does make more sound (mechanicals in motion) than my 750 in the same state of disrepair. But they are different engines so 1-1 comparison may not be fair. Front left, rear left exhaust valves were almost -.002 tight along with 2 intake (dont' have my notes on me) -.001+ tight.
I need to find the torque specs for the adjuster nuts. They were hardcore torqued when I got to them. I set them to 105in lbs. I think that may not be tight enough, but my hodge podge of manuals don't have any listings.


One a side note I picked up this set of gauges at a garage sale.

 

Adjusting Screw Lock Nut

TORQUE: 21-25 Nm (2.1 - 2.5 kg-m, 15 - 18 ft-lb)

 

^ so pick a torque based on your feelings that day? 21-25nm

 

Most of the time I find the torquing of the lock nut a dance involving me applying some opposite pressure to prevent the tappet from moving while tightening or compensating and allowing for a tiny bit of movement, that I just snug them where I know they are good. I bet I'm pretty fucking close.

Rotate the engine over a few times after each one. Re-check. Then a quick sanity check for tightness on each one before I move to the other head.

New-to-me-bikes always come with them apparently tightened with a 4 ft breaker bar.

 

Plug these bad boys ? #1 intake tube is connected to another tube going to rear #3 intake

 

I have 4x tubes that each come out of the in the same place on each carb connected together and sealed.

One one left over solo tube . Plug? Small nipple near the table surface.

 

Awe yah, now that looks familiar. Plug for sure. Probably for forcing fumes into the burn cycle. 2 plugs coming up. 750 has screws in all of those now that you mention it. The other two intakes are plugged. Stupid question.

Thanks for the reminder Terry.
Poor 750 just waiting for paint parts. So lonely on the ground.

 

That bike looks to have all the extra tubes for emmission control; the big ones may be heading to the cannister. If they are float bowl overflows, they probably need to be open to air.

 

Someone pulled the canister and left the rest. I cannot find the can anywhere. Wtf.
Now that I re-read capt plug post, my brain cells are clicking. My apologies, I hit a Red Bull on the way home in excitement. Lol

 

No, you're fine. You should still have a main vent hose coming out the back of the carbs. That one just needs to be open and pointing down. Or with a small crankcase style vent filter.

The one remaining that you figured out is vacuum and needs to be capped. The 4 identical ones that were still connected together can be capped off as you did.

The two on the crankcase right below the carb boots are vacuum and that "T" can be capped. Or the ports can be connected together with one piece of that hose. Or you can install a small pan head screw and alum washer like the other 2 have. These are your ports for synching. That open "T" would be a problem.