My RC24 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Wheezy, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    hahahaha speed light. the man keepin your bikes down.

    Well done dude! Sounds just like my 700hundy bike.

    I believe if your bike is idling evenly you are fairly synced. Once you get up in the revs it shouldn't matter.

    I do have some left over parts after my '88 750 resto mod. Hit me up if you need something, I just might have it.
     
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  2. rc24dk

    rc24dk New Member

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    Thanks for sharing your story.
     
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  3. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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  4. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    ^^ like the lad sez, if it idles nicely and smoothly at 1000 rpm (or maybe down to 800) your synch is fine.
     
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  5. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Right, super important decision. Wheel colour choice!

    My bike’s colour scheme is the blue and grey. To keep costs down I’ve decided to keep this but I hate the white wheels. They’re going. So quite like the silver grey wheels, like in the interceptor here probably my favourite.
    [​IMG]
    not my VFR obviously, but hopefully in a few months it might look a bit more like this!

    Or, I was thinking of satin black? What do you boys think?

    Any other good choices with the blue grey scheme?

    Hopefully taking the rear wheel to be powder coated, next week.


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  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I'm a big fan of pulling colors out of the graphics for the wheels. I say something close to the grey / silvers on the bike. Or maybe go a shade or two darker for something a little different that won't show road grime / brake dust as badly in between washings.

    The Blue / Grey VFR is super classy, I'm always blown away when I see one in person.

    The UK version with white wheels is just strange.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2022
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  7. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    My VFR800 had a really nice grey color … I think that would look great on that bike


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  8. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Thanks mate. Yes, the white wheels just don’t work with this scheme. They look fab on the red scheme, though. Ok, think that’s the decision made. Will have a chat to the paint shop and see what silver greys they have (a lot, apparently!).


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  9. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Little late, but I vote for a non-silver metallic grey.
     
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  10. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Here’s my colour label. Is one of these numbers the grey?
    [​IMG]


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  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    None. That should be the Blue. Just go look at samples, you'll know which one you like. Bring a side panel that has the Blue and Silver on it.
     
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  12. cknight

    cknight New Member

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    BMW non-metallic silver looks good and cleans up nicely. You've done well.
     
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  13. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I shoot pretty much that color (in paint) on A LOT of parts. I've always been a sucker for charcoal metallic. I do my calipers and master cylinders in it, and many wheels.
     
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  15. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I’m getting ready to take the wheel to the powder coaters and removed the hub, only to find that there are 5 of these rubber components in the hub (not shown in the service manual exploded diagram, though). Obviously 2 are broken. I’m going to need a whole new set, aren’t I?
    [​IMG]


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  16. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    DE69E65C-8724-4928-B47F-49560A0B5EF9.png Those are cush drive blocks, they should be solid, those look OK

    Part #2
     
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  17. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Cheers mate. Will need to replace 2 of them as the small piece of material that connects the 2 separate parts of the block have broken.


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  18. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    The connector piece doesn't do anything really, except telling you how they are installed hanging over each web. Being broken does tell you the rubber has seen better days.

    Ultimately, yes, replace them (5) at some point. But if you don't have excessive play you are fine for now.
     
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  19. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Agreed with Capt. the break doesn't mean much for function. I would be concerned if they were cracking apart. When you do reinstall you can check, for lack of a better term "back lash" of the cushes. I just place the cushes into the wheel and insert the sprocket hub. Lay the wheel on the ground and try and rotate the sprocket hub. You may get play or you may get nothing. If the sprocket hub can be rotated more than a millimeter or two without rotating the wheel, then they are pretty worn. It is still not the end of the world, but put it on the list of parts needed.
    This is my process, but it worked well when I was racing. Others will disagree I imagine. :)
     
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  20. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Cheers boys. I think I’ll put these parts in the ‘not essential but replace next year’ category.

    The rear wheel is at the powder coaters. I’ve given them the small side panel to match the grey from that. Quite excited to see what it will look like when done. Will be nice to be spending money on some bling instead of seals, washers and gaskets! Hopefully will be back with me by Wednesday. Need to order the new bearings tomorrow and I’m going to start having a look at the top fairing which has a small piece missing by one of the mounting holes. I have a cunning plan.
    [​IMG]
    The electrical tape is there just to stop the crack getting worse.


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