How-To: PAIR removal for 5th Generation

I live in Canada and have a 2001 in Silver. Just removed the pair and snorkel, replaced plugs and it has a Jardine RT-One pipe. Added the Givi D200S windscreen. My question is what do the vacum hoses 1-2-3-4 do? and can i just plug them. BTW the bikes runs smother and the throttle is better as well. Thank you for the detailed posting of the pair removal.

 

I know this is an old thread but...
Last night I removed the PAIR valve assembly and the Flapper valve from my 01.
Plugged the open hoses and air box port and took it for a 18 mile ride...the difference is night and day.
I know some reported little improvement after making these mods. Maybe I had a problem others didn't.
My bike was sluggish off idle and coughed when I would gun it. I put up with
poor performance for several years and now I have to get used to a bike that is "normal" .
Thank you to all that provided this info!

 

Angus, the vac hoses are already plugged.... onto nipples molded into the airbox as holders. You use those hoses for a starter valve sync, and when done, plug them back onto the nipples for storage (plugged).

 

Is there any way to get these pics back on this thread? I'm hoping to tackle this and a few other things on the '98 and '00 soon, and the YouTubes has all kinds of conflicting information.

Snorkles have been done. I haven't done the flapper yet (trying to hunt down facts on that one too). Pair also gets rid of all of the unnecessary plumbing, right?

 

I tried the flapper deactivation and it did nothing for me or my VFR...made a bit more noise at low revs from the airbox but I couldn't detect any operational benefit. The flapper just closes one of two openings to the airbox below 5500rpm so it won't make any difference above those revs. The PAIR elimination makes good sense by getting rid of some unlovely tubing and solenoid.

 

Real maintenance is all done on the '98 with just the PARI delete left. With some research, I see many saying it does nothing but make it more tidy and others have night and day experiences. i'll probably give it a go this weekend on the '98. The '00 has aftermarket slip on and an air filter, but nothing else. It does have the factory O2, cat, etc. I bought a spare kit. Is it okay to perform the PAIR on the '00? again...read a lot of mixed reviews.

Thanks all!

 

Mixed reviews, either felt better or didn't notice a difference. I have never read about, or experienced, negative results. For me, if I am just getting rid of a bunch of un-needed clutter and shit, it's a win.

I think the difference in results has to do with if the units are failing or not. My ST1100 was bad, terrible decel popping on a stock bike. When I was done and took apart the units, the diagphrams were just goo. Bike ran SO MUCH better. And all that stupid plumbing was gone.

I don't own a bike that this shit has remained on. Buh-bye.

 

Thanks, Cap'n.

 

Re: photo's not showing, If you click on "Reply" you can see them in the reply box,... kind of. The photos were hosted on Photo Bucket, and they have their logo covering up each of them. Yet, you can see most of what you need to see.

 

This forum's image proxy is broken, so even image uploads to Imgur don't work...
Anyway, here's the OP with images (attempt #3).

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I've got an 2001 VFR800 and I couldn't find any How-Tos on removing the PAIR, so I put together this How-To and hopefully someone else will find this useful.


1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the two front bolts on the gas tank.

3. With a hammer/wood, or something of sufficient strength to hold the tank up, tilt the gas tank backwards and put the hammer/wood between the tank holes and frame.

4. Remove the connections to the two breather tubes that are connected to the gas tank. They should come off fairly easy. One is on the left side of the bike close to the gas tank pivot, and the other is on the right side of the bike, and runs down into the frame with a white/clear elbow joining the two hoses.

5. Disconnect the two electrical connectors (the white one is for the fuel pump, the other is for the fuel gauge).

6. Tilt the tank back down onto the frame.

7. Remove the two rear 10mm bolts attaching the gas tank to the pivot.

8. With a table or milk crates (something with sufficient strength and height) to the
right of the bike, lift the gas tank off of the bike and place on the table. Careful not to rest the tank on the plastic faring or rear cowl. This step allows you to work freely in the airbox/intake area without the gas tank obstruction.

9. Remove the back five screws from the airbox. Loosen the front two screws and the hose to the diaphragm on the top of the airbox. Remove the screw to the PAIR valve mounting bracket arm (gold), and remove the airbox cover.

10. Remove the air filter.

11. Remove the four plastic air inlets. I used an electric drill with a phillips end to zip them out quickly.

12. Remove all four intake vacuum hoses from the airbox. There should be two per side. These are used in the California models, but in non-California models they just are plugged.

13. Remove the large crankcase ventilation tube from the rear of the airbox. It runs from the top/front of the rear valve cover to the airbox.

14. Remove the plastic electrical connection to the solenoid, located directly below the hose just removed.

15. Remove the vacuum tube going into the bottom of the solenoid.

16. Remove the two screws and the self-locking nuts holding the two coils for the rear cylinders to the airbox. Move the coils aside.

17. Lift up the rear of the airbox and remove the two rubber hoses attached to the bottom of the airbox.

18. Remove the electrical connection to the airbox temperature sensor, located to the side of the two rubber hoses.

19. Now the airbox can be lifted up even higher. On the front/right/bottom of the airbox, remove the vacuum hose attached to the solenoid. You will need some dexterity to remove the hose.

20. Remove the large PAIR hose connected to the front of the airbox.

21. Remove the final vacuum hose on the front canister of the airbox.

22. Remove the airbox bottom.

23. This picture shows the PAIR hoses running on the left side of the motorcycle, the PAIR solenoid, and the pair front two PAIR hoses.


24. Disconnect the rear PAIR hose from the PAIR reed valve cover shown in this picture:



25. Disconnect the front PAIR hose from the front PAIR reed valve cover.



26. Remove the bolts from the left faring, enough to remove the PAIR electronic solenoid connection.



27. Disconnect and remove the PAIR assembly (hoses and solenoid).



28. Now you will see the PAIR reed valve cover clearly on the front cylinder.



29. At this point, you can either replace the PAIR reed valve cover, reeds, and plates with a PAIR replacement “kit”, which is just a flat piece of aluminum, or insert vacuum caps to disable the system. When installing the kit, be sure to clean up the mating surfaces and you may want to apply some silicone seal to the surface. To install the kit: With an 8mm socket, remove the PAIR reed valve covers.



You will now see the reed valves, with an orange/red gasket around them. With a screwdriver, you can pry out the reed valves.



Then, with needle-nose pliers, remove the metal plates under the reed valves.



Clean off the perimeter of any carbon, put silicone seal down, and then the reed cover plate. At this point, and this is recommended, you will want to ensure the covers are not leaking. Move the tank back into position, connect the fuel pump, and start the engine. Feel for any leaking of air coming from the perimeter of the metal plates.



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Maximum 10 images per message... Read on below:

 

30. If it is leaking, you may run into the situation where the machining of the PAIR casting is not perfectly flat, or if you do not want to buy the flat PAIR aluminum plates, you can still disable the PAIR system. You can simply cut the hoses coming out of the PAIR reed valve covers and put a vacuum cap into the hose. This will work because the reed valves prevent any gases from escaping and blowing out the vacuum cap, so they will have suction only, and very little. I bought this at Advanced Auto Parts and it fits snugly in the hose.

Vacuum caps:



Vacuum cap in PAIR hose:



31. Now put it back together in reverse order (airbox, vacuum hoses, coils, intake inlets, filter, airbox top, tank) and you are done! Be sure to keep disconnected and plug up the vacuum hose going to the diaphragm on the top of the airbox.

 

BTW, in case you're looking for a pair valve removal kit, I bought this one.

 

I didn't want to say anything, but that was way more complicated than how I did mine.

 

Thanks, i hadn't seen that thread yet.