1986 VFR750F Upgrade Kit

Really good progress.



But man, the re-routing of wiring to compensate for the changes took most of the night. I will update with some pics when it is finalized. Really happy with the fuse box relocation, I took inspiration from the RC26.

I pulled the fork springs and increased the fork oil height to 120mm. The bars are going to be awesome on this bike and the masters play really nice and allow a nice downward angle before contacting the bars. Stoked.

I also "get to" drill new holes for the switch assemblies, as the location holes and tabs are about 20mm away from each other now. great

When that is all done the next step will be to figure out the routing for stainless brake lines. I'm pulling from "inventory", so the routing might get creative.

 

Front end coming together more.



Cockpit looks good. Everything fit pretty nice. (never mind the brake master window... it's stained)



Note the new fuse box location. It is mounted to the oil line at the bracket.



Use some coated steel wire clamps to secure it. It is very solid.




Clearance worked out good.



This all hidden under the inner faring panels anyway.

 

The ignition switch plugs into the fuse box so I had to get creative. I made a sub-harness that connects to the fuse box, runs behind the steering stem and out to the switch to connect on the right.



Lock to lock steering has no pinch points or tightness. You can see the main fuse box and left switch assy wires now running around the front and over to the main wire harness connectors. The right handle switch wires run behind the ignition switch and over to the left switch wires, where they connect together. It's quite convoluted when everything is designed to be plugged in below the fuse box on the triple clamp.

 

Nice job Captain!

 

Front end is done.



I bought some stainless lines off of a CBR900RR on eBay for $13. I knew they wouldn't reach up to the master, my plan was to use them as part of a 3 line system. Cleaned them up and did my heat shrink treatment. They would also be too long to use to as stock. So I flipped the splitter on the triple so the cutouts were facing up and looped the lines over the top. Worked way better than I thought. The upper line to the splitter was a short stainless line from "inventory" that worked out real nice.



The suspension travel works thru the loops on top, instead of into the radiator. Wiring and brake line routing ended up being very sano, without pinch points lock to lock.





Thought I was going to have to trim off the "gates" for the banjo fittings, but flipping the splitter put the lines and banjos in perfect position to not impede anything. Lucky as shit, but I kinda had a feeling it would work.



Oh, and with those loops going up and over, bleeding was gonna be a bitch, right? Nope. Rotated the clip on so the master was uphill and poured in some fluid. It just started bubbling out of the bleed port. Work the lever when I'm walking by and bubbles just keep coming up. I have a totally firm lever without even cracking a bleeder. I was shocked. Will bleed the level in the master down to just before it wants to suck air and soak up what's in there with a paper towel. Do any clean up as necessary with a q-tip and then fill with fresh fluid for a final bleed to ensure contaminants are minimized.

Rear line is installed.



Another line pulled form "inventory". A bit shorter would be nice, but really this works pretty fuckin' good. And $o is better than $70+.

 

Beautiful work Captain! I’m going to take your advice eliminating the handlebar stops now that. I have my front cowl in place and I can see where the levers will be on the steering stops.

TY!

 

Hi! Any modifikations to the 600F2 wheels, spacers or axels?

 

Well, the front wheel is in 600F2 forks, 1988/89 VFR750F lower triple and 1990 - 97 upper. So no modification needed there. If you are trying to put the F2 wheel in a stock 86/87 VFR front end, you have to machine ~5.5mm off of each disc mount, both sides. And machine the speedo drive and right spacer to be able to center the wheel.

The rear wheel and sprocket hub are unmodified. A 14mm left spacer puts the rear F2/3 wheel "centered" as stock. The F2 and F3 both come with a 14mm left spacer, but the F3 style is nicer with a bigger flange for up against the swingarm. The sprocket (usually) needs to move inboard 1-2 mm to get on chain center. If you use a stock style CBR rear sprocket, you can simply flip the sprocket and put the "dished" portion inward, effectively moving the sprocket over to the perfect spot for the chain. Or you can remove the studs and machine off that amount and re-install the studs to future/idiot proof sprocket selection.

The right side spacers all depend on what rear brake solution you choose. I have a sticky about this in the forum.

 

Tanx for rich information, this is very intresting! I want to use a CBR 1000SF front fork in combination with the F2 wheels, that looks very like the RC24 RK/ RC30 fork. any experience with those?

BR
Trond

 

Not sure what model the "CBR 1000SF" is, but sounds like they are similar forks to the CB1000 with the quick release axle drop-outs (that look like RC30 units). Not sure what diameter fork tubes the bike you list has, but if they are other than 41mm, the triple clamps you choose will change most everything regarding fitting the F2 wheel.

 

The CB1000 Super Four (SF) uses 43mm forks. I have been keeping my open for a decent set of these for years.

Triple clamp selection is going to be a challenge. You are probably going to have to look at 2002 - 2009 VFR or 2007+ CBR1100XX triples. The VFR triples if successfully made to adapt to the RC24 frame will have the same offset for trail, but a wider spread on the forks. You will likely need to go to a 1998+ VFR front wheel and rotors of you want that "6 Spoke" look. Or a RC36-II VFR front wheel with different rotors that have more "dish" to center in the calipers.

Anything is possible, it just takes more money and custom machined parts. Although not as "trick" looking as the CB1000 forks, the use of 41mm CBR or RC36 VFR forks is your best bet unless you are, or your buddy is, a machinist.

 

I am educated a machinist but lack the admitance to a shop because of life situation, but i have some contacts. But in earlier days i could make what ever I needed. Then the only question i needed to relate to is what chassis geometry i should pick if not the orginal? i think one should rethink caster and rake when using modern rim and tire dimensions. I would like a bike that is neutral on the steering in leaning angels.

 

The RC24 chassis can take quite a bit of changes without introducing instability or nervousness. Compensating for the smaller real wheel and larger rear wheel is not only needed, but extremely beneficial when accentuated.

One of my first builds (using much of this hardware) had a Fox shock that was +20mm and CBR-F2 forks much shorter than stock. On that first build I had CBR-F2 triple clamps modified to to take the VFR steering stem and adjustable frame stops.

Rock solid, no hint of head shake or twitchiness, hands off the bars going downhill no problem.




Later I switched to RC24-II (1988/19898) triple clamps that have more offset. RC24-II with another CBR600F3 lower triple I was working on.
F3 shares the same dimensions as the F2, just a lighter casting.



Still absolutely rock solid. With slightly more offset, just a bit "livelier" is what I can say. Both "neutral" in corners, the VFR triples initiate turn in easier.

 

Looks like it's doing 150 mph just sitting there ... drop the mic

 

Connectors / Crossover from two smashed mufflers. Cut off right at the weld, sandblasted, painted, cured, installed. Ready for a "slip-on" project.

 

Clean job Mike !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Clean job Mike !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yosh connecting pipes and mufflers trimmed and test fit.







Pipe ends roughed in with gasket compression slits and end holes.

 

Puuuurfect!