First Bike VFR 750

Hello everyone.
I wanted your opinion on a Bike I'm interested in.

First off, I am a new rider not even done with my driving license yet but there is an offer that's kinda hard to refuse.

A 1994 VFR 750 with 71.000 miles on the clock for 700€

My question to you guys is:
Will I be able to sell it for the same amount if it turns out to be way harder to handle than I expect it to?
Considering the mileage on it etc.
I still haven't seen it yet but the owner says he bought it a few months ago off a mechanic, and he himself is moving away and selling his vehicles.
He assured me though that everything technical is in check. Though it has some scratches etc, which I really do not care about.

Also would you recommend the VFR as a first bike? I am not one for speed. I only like the practicality of two wheelers and the culture. Also I have huge respect for motorcycles be it 125 or litre bikes. Initially I wanted to start on something much lighter and weaker to learn riding and maybe drop a few times but the price is just too good.

 

First time rider on a VFR750 to me is a no no. 71000 is plenty miles but these engines are very durable. Can you sell it for what you bought it for? Maybe... the mileage will be a factor to most buyers. My advice, get something smaller and hone your skills.

 

LaHonda

How tall and heavy are you?

 

That's a lot of bike for a newbie. Have you ridden anything on or off road?

 

f you know someone with more experience let him/her check the condition of the bike and maybe also check the frame number to make sure it isn't stolen or with debt and is roadworthy and registration taxes paid. If all checks good it seems an OK deal. Be aware that service and spare part availability may be challenging with an old bike.

As the good people say above: a bit ambitious as a first bike.

 

Thought there is a tiered licensing system all over the EU? You have to start out on a "learner bike" maybe not like the crazy brits make you do, but something that is easy to control and not over powered. Could be wrong though. Have any Mozart Balls? its' candy you degenerates!

 

I worked my way up from a 16hp 125 to a 90hp 750 in about two years when I was younger and even stupider than I am now. The only difference between these two was the potential speed that can things go wrong at, and the significant difference in height and weight, which really only asserts itself at very slow speeds or at a standstill. If you are a taller/stronger person, the weight may not be an issue as long as you have it front of mind. And power is only an issue if you don't respect it.

As to whether a bike will still be worth the same price in a couple of years, the answer depends on whether you damage it between now and then, but realistically depreciation is close to zero and the difference between 71000 miles and 81000miles is trivial, either way it is an old machine.

 

Well well well.
I went there with a couple of friends who own and know motorcycles.
Saw it and took it for 600€
Just gonna have to start slow and careful.
I am 5‘11 and 190lbs

Now I have a few technical questions.

Since it stalls when I put it off choke, I‘m going to clean the jets in the carb. Question is Can I take out the carbs without fully removing the tank? Can I just put it to the side?

Second question is about the fairings. I searched and searched but I can‘t find other rc36ii with the same fairing I have.
Normally it‘s supposed to be two red/black pieces but mine is only one big red piece + the black dirtguard underneath.

 

Aftermarket, painted cowls. Could be fiberglass or plastic. Likely glass.

In regards to your carb question, sounds like your next move is to get Genuine Honda Service Manual. You don't quite grasp what that job entails. Fuel tank removal is the very first of many steps. Undoing a fuel line and a drain line is the least of your worries, and you won't want the tank precariously hanging off to the side during what is needed after that.

Bike looks to be in decent shape if the left side looks anything like the right.

 

Yes Bike was fully warm and still stalled without choke. Does that rule out the idle adjustment?

I found a manual online. idk though if that‘s what you mean. Anyway I managed to take off everything without it.

I‘m not new to wrenching. Been doing simple repairs on cars the past 5 years. But Carburators are a new thing to me. I dont think it would take long to understand though

 

Happy old bike day
There are several good threads here about carb work. Apparently newer unleaded fuel degenerates quickly leaving a mess inside. Aside from that the old O-rings degenerate due to fuel composition. Carb cleaning and rebuild with new Viton O-rings is recommended (if not already done)

 

Tip #1 take the carbs and plenum off in one piece, do not attempt to separate the plenum from the carbs
Tip #2 remove all the jets but keep them with the correct numbered carb. Count the number of turn to fully seated for the low speed screws and don't lose the o-ring, washer and spring
Tip #3 The low speed jets are tiny indeed; may need a long soak/ultrasonic tank to clean, but don't go gouging them clean with pointy metal things
Tip #4 check the float heights are correct
Tip #5 do a bench test after reassembly to make sure they are leak tight

 

oh, terry, light poking with a wire through the idle jet is necessary to confirm hole is fully open, no enlargement done.

making a gauge to set float heights helps alot to keep measurements consistant

 

I agree with sm on a light wire thru slow jets... Not a problem.

I take an old cable and de-strand one wire. It's tiny and has a nice little curly to it that will poke thru and then contact the jet walls to clean... without changing the jet size or affecting proper flow.

Never an issue for decades. The slow jet is not like a main jet that can be an issue when dyno tuning.

Now... Poking something inappropriate that will drastically affect things... not cool.

 

Fair enough lads; I was parroting some bloke called Kevin Cameron, he probably knows nothing.

 

great writer, usta read him in the magazine. cant agree on this i guess.

 

Again, slow jets vs main jets. I think everyone can be right here.

While it is best to never hAve to poke a jet, we are talking a slow jet that provides fuel for basically idling. And we are not drilling or reaming.

I'm not buying new slow jets every time I come across one with a bit of crud.

 

Thanks a lot for the replies.

I still have a lot of research and learning to do before taking the carbs out, but for that I have time.

A question that is open after long reads is as follows.
If I shut the petcock and let the engine run till the carbs are empty, do the work, reassemble everything and try to start.

What is the best way to start the engine at this point?

Some people said the fuel pump doesn‘t work when ignition is on like cars, others said it works only when pressing the starter button, so keep cranking until it eventually fills the carbs with fuel and start or the battery dies.
Others mentioned a bypass of some sort, which doesn‘t really interest me though, since it seems a bit too complicated for my current knowledge.

How would you guys do it on your bikes?