VTR 2fiddy parts bike

Took out the NSR!

 

stock headlight is weak and yellowish, lacks confidence, anemic.

headlight bulbs need updating on 250s since they are not as white or bright as newer bulbs, safer probably and more noticable.

 

Great news Rogue!! That's awesome. She gonna "rip".

 

yeah, lights are my least concern..hahaha
But yes a group buy for the Hawk, VTR, and the VFR750 are needed. They are all "dim" like me.

 

Is this a filter?




Just destroy to get stuff out of tank?

 

If it is metal, no. A "strainer", if present, is plastic.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/ho...90/VTR250L/Frame/FUEL-TANK/93337/F_13/2/23945

 

It is plastic and I kinda figured it was like item #5 on the part diagram. I just didn't want to pry to hard. Looks like the best option for clearing out debris. I just can't get much to come out of there.
I figured I would start with some lube or heat to try and free it from the tank itself. Open to extraction methods. Brute force is fine too. I have yet to locate the petcock for this tank anyway.
Thinking out loud..heat and wedging a pick or tiny flatblade in there.

Thanks!

 

I would proceed under the assumption it's not coming out intact, and even if it did you would not be re-using it. Likely the screen portion has crumbled or torn.

 

Agreed. Just taking a little precaution before I destroy.. Thanks dude!

 

You guys are making me miss my 250s.

 

push it through and remove it, replace with new. need that filter working or youll be doing alot of carb cleans.

 

UPDATE: ish

I pulled the old strainer and currently running it through another round of evaporust. Should be much easier to get the gunk out. I cleaned the exterior and the white paint is good, but not great. Sounded like white wasn't the OE color so I am debating on repaint.

The larger question I have concerns the engine. The paint is corroded (?) rough, but still black. Should I pull the engine and repaint with limited experience and tools or send it out to be repainted (thus a sand blast and repaint)? I know nothing about officially painting things nicely. LOL

Thoughts? I can upload pics this weekend.

Oh and forks are rebuilt, coolant system 50% rebuilt.

 

If you are going to paint the crankcase, it is easier if you are also going to paint the crankcase covers.

With everything in place, clean, degrease, clean, degrease. Now do it some more.

Remove the crankcase covers, valve covers, starter, water pump, coolant pipes, etc. Do all your gasket scraping, crankcase and covers. Plug starter hole, water pump hole, water pipe holes. "Install" the crankcase covers with just 2 or 3 donor bolts without gaskets. Install valve covers with masked bolts, no rubber gaskets

Paint the engine with satin black engine paint. Remove covers and prep and paint them in your choice. Reinstall refurbished starter motor, cooling system and restored valve covers and crankcase covers with new gaskets.

Def some work, but depending on what level you're going for, worth it. I have done it MANY times.

 

That being said, some of the Engine Black restoration products are supposed to be pretty good. I have never used them, as they must be temporary.

 

"Paint the engine with satin black engine paint. Remove covers and prep and paint them in your choice. Reinstall refurbished starter motor, cooling system and restored valve covers and crankcase covers with new gaskets."

I had a feeling I would be doing it this way. The CC cases are worse and very exposed to sight. I did this to my 400's minus the satin black engine paint. A good detailing got the block clean enough to still look nice. This little guy is another case since the carbs were missing the entire time. Gives me hope that my mind was already considering this road. I like the look and I don't think OE guys are going to complain too much.

 

The "satin" mellows out after some heat cycles and washings. I find it is more resilient than flat and more closely matches the factory look after said cycles.

 

Valve covers are sand blasted and ready for cleaning and paint. The OE paint practically flew off of the aluminum. hahaha

I am going to do a clearance check on the valves. I found these specs:

• Intake:
  0.10 ±0.03 mm
  0.004 ±0.001 in

• Exhaust:
  0.22 ±0.03 mm
  0.009 ±0.001 in

I don't plan on keeping this bike so I won't be getting a manual. Any help is appreciated!




Also have been working the tank with evapo rust. It is getting much better. Need to work on different angles to reach filler and sides.

 

The VTR250 manual that I have specifies 0.17 mm intake and 0.22 exhaust. This is for the MC33 (1997?), the one that has a trellis frame like a baby Ducati Monster. The very first VT250 from the 1980s specifies 0.10 and 0.15mm

 

Thanks T dawg! This is a 1990
just to verify 10/15mm +/-.03mm ?

 

or .007" + or - .001"