FI light blinks - 0 ; Engine operates normally

Hi everyone,

I have encountered a few electrical issues with my motor since I've had it (bad grounding, bad contacts injector plugs). As a result my motor unfortunately has been for 2 years of the for years that I own this one in the workshop. The engine currently just runs fine and smoothly, but my mechanic seems to be unable to tackle this one.

The current issue is the following:
FI light blinks - 0 (=continuous)
Engine operates normally

1. Blown malfunction indicator bulb
2. Open or short circuit in malfunction indicator wire
3. Faulty ECM

The ECM has already been checked, could anyone give me some help with 1 and 2?

Second: I had a currently non connected brand new Dynojet tuning kit mounted, it should not be a problem to have it tuned anyway, no?

Thanks for your help!

 

Hi Chetan

Are you saying that the FI light just glows steadily when riding? The bulb is obviously OK in that case.
The service manual says for a bulb that stays lit, you could have a short circuit in the service check connector, a faulty ECM.
An obvious question, is there a jumper wire in the service check connector?
Have you attempted to clear any previous fault codes?
If the Dynajet kit is installed, try removing it from the circuit.

 

Hi Terry,

Many thanks for your reply!
Correct, the FI light just glows steadily when riding.
Bulb is ok, but it is an AliExpress Led head lamp which might cause havoc, I should try that one as a possibility.
The ECM has been checked by a professional company 1 1/2 year ago for solving something which appeared to be a grounding problem, the ECM appeared to be perfectly fine.
The jumper wire has been used and removed for a reset several times and it is out now. An injector fault I managed to resolve by putting contact spray and leave it for an hour into the injector connectors,
All previous fault codes have been cleaned with the jumper wire.
The Dynojet kit is currently removed from the circuit, since it makes no sense tho have it working until it has not been tuned.

Hope that this helps for clarification, any new ideas are very welcome!

 

Have you had issues with the common earth block? This is where multiple earth wires join at an orange or blue plastic block, on the 6th gen that is in the nose fairing. That can lead to odd behaviour of dash lights. Is there any change to the intensity of the FI light when you use the brakes or blinkers?

 

Thanks again Terry for your reply!

It seemed that thais website was unreachable for a few days.
Let me get back on your suggestions in a few days from now.

Cheers,
Chetan

 

Update: I spoke to my mechanic, the earth block has been checked and been found ok. I will check on the light bulbs replaced by AE led's, which also could be a cause.

 

Heads up, don't wait for the ground block to be a problem. Solder it now. There are two parts to solder seperately. While you are at it add a ground from the RR to the frame like the old "Vfrness" was built for.

 

Thanks Max! Not entirely clear what RR stands for in this case? Do you happen to have some pictures/video's/links of what you are explaining to me? Is this one appropriate from a Swedish VFR rider?

 

RR = Regulator/ Rectifier
Looks are similar to this;

 

Ok got it and thanks again! It was not the contacts I mentioned before. there is a video here that explains the installation of aa Mosfet RR install that seems to be a good idea. I often find the voltage on my bike on the low end. Anyone could recommend this modification?

 

Hi Guys and gals,

I bought and installed a quality RR unit and contact sprayed all plugs I could think of, but my problem error message unfortunately has not been solved :-( I went from a permanent red light back to error 13 (injector 3). It was the other way around a while ago, I contact sprayed the electrical plug sockets of injector 3 and error 13 disapeared and got replaced by a permanent red light. The motor runs perfectly fine though.
Running an ground cable to the RR unit makes no sense according to the manufacturer, because there is no grounding on the exterior, that counts for very old RR units.

It is an annoying problem and I understand my mechanic now: Unmounting half the bike, trying out something and then rebuild, only to find out that it did not help!

Anyone who has another idea?

BtW: I replaced the fairing by a AE fairing in Interceptor colors. A friend dropped my bike a year ago and this was cheaper than having everything sprayed again. Quality is ok but quite far away from Honda. But now I can have it repainted eventually with no hurry. It is quite a job though.

 

The problem has finally been solved!
The culprit is my Carplay 7" screen AND Dynojet Autotune, which are both connected to the light group and pull too much juice.
They both need a separate switchable group.
Autotune needs to switch on directly upon contact, if you switch it off and on pulling current from your lightswitch, it might ruin the autotune.My mechanic did not read the whole manual unfortunately.
Carplay/Android screens are treacherous in how much electricity they pull.
It is well possible that if you leave your motorcycle run stationary with the screen on, switch off the contact and start again, that your bike won't start anymore because it depleted the battery too much.
Because of running regularly up to 220km/h on a testing bench for tuning petrol/air intake for 1h, the battery voltage went from 10,80V to 13,4V and by the end the Fi light went off.
My bike gained 6Hp but more importantly, it runs super smooth, picks up more briskly especially in the range where I am using it mostly (but still a delay at low rpm in 1st gear) and uses less petrol on the highway.
I'm a happy chap!

 

I'm glad you got to a solution Chetan. Would having a voltmeter mounted have pointed to the issue?

 

Hi Terry, apparently not, because I do have a voltmeter mounted with the famous bracket adapter for the VFR. With hindsight: of course you can see right away that the voltage is too low and it must have some cause! But my mechanic did not see it either, whatever one might think about that...
This thread is closed as far as I am concerned, thank you guys for your help again!