86 VFR 700 - Rt side cowl air duct

Does anyone have an airduct from a right-side cowl they'd be willing to part with? Specifically, the small black air duct that attaches to the vents on the side cowl. I removed mine years ago after 2/3 attachment points cracked. It seems I lost the air duct during my move from NY to SC. Getting close to finishing up on the 86 and I'd like to add that piece back on the cowl while I'm still working on it. Pic of the damaged attachment points on the 86 and the air duct I'm looking for on my 87. Thanks fellas.

 

I'm sure I have one you can have.

I also know a technique to repair the damaged posts which includes new inserts for the fasteners, if you are interested.

Will get back to you shortly.......

 

OK, here is one you can have that should be the correct duct for that (right) side. Please confirm it's what you're looking for.

Also, pics of the plastic replacement posts, inserts, and fasteners I use. (sorry for the blurry pic) If interested, I can elaborate on that repair work and include these parts with the duct. You would need a couple tools to do the actual work though plus some PlastiFix.

 

These are plastic posts in a variety of sizes......these are what I use as replacements.



Cut off the old damaged post with a Dremel w/plastic cutoff disc. Then use a tool to heat up the insert and when it is hot enough, push it into the post so it is just below flush with the top. Then, attach that post to the duct and set the duct onto the fairing where it is supposed to sit. If you're lucky, you'll have at least one remaining existing post you can use to get the duct in the correct position. Very rarely do you get a fairing with all 3 posts destroyed. Then, make a visual note of the angle - of the fairing where the post is sitting - so you can trim off the bottom of the post so it will sit flush.

Once that is done - you are ready to attach the post to the fairing. I use PlastiFix. It always comes out a bit sloppy but no one sees this part of the fairing so as long as it's a strong bond - you're good, IMHO.

 

The method I use above will result in a duct that can be removed, just like they came from the factory.

I've seen plenty of scenarios where someone tries to 'glue' the duct in place. OK - I guess it gets the job done. But the ideal scenario is to be able to remove the duct using fasteners, if needed. If you take the fairing to a paint shop for example, you can remove the duct beforehand. It's just the right approach.

You can use any kind of a heat source to heat up that insert. I have an actual insert tool that is like a soldering iron thingy. But you could also just screw in the fastener, hold that with pliers, and put a butane torch on the insert until it's hot enough. It doesn't have to be red hot, just hot enough to melt the inside of that post it's going in.

 

Thanks Baz, that's the piece I'm looking for. Throttle side air duct. Your attachment idea looks like a great idea as well. I'll PM you for further.

 

PM message received, thanks. And replied to. Happy to help return that beautiful bike to proper order!

 

The stuff I use is PlastiFix by Polyvance and I buy directly from them. This is a link to their smaller size "kit" which should suit your needs. They have the option of Black, White, or Clear. I would choose Clear, myself:
https://www.polyvance.com/products/plastifix-kit-small?variant=46286559871215


There are other companies making this stuff and here's an Amazon link for one called Plastex...also a smaller size kit but they will send you all three colors in this kit and it's less money:
Amazon Kit

Go watch some You Tube videos on how to use and then figure out which kit suits your needs. You will have everything else you need from me.

I'll let you know when the duct ships this week.

Cheers!

 

Baz,

Thanks for all the advice yesterday, as well as helping me out with the air duct. Above and beyond, brother.

I watched a few videos on You Tube from Polyvance. They actually repair a side cowl from an 86 750. Their product appears to be the gold standard for ABS repairs, so that's what I'm going to use. I'll post photos of the repair when I tackle it.

Today's agenda :
New plugs, fresh Amsoil, new coolant, getting done today. Fresh carbs, new TourMax fuel pump, new fuel lines , fuel filter, and OEM air filter going on as well.

Hopefully I'll have it running this evening.

 

Greetings Brian. Had a busy week but your duct will be in tomorrow's mail. I will PM your tracking # when I get back home.

I'm excited for the rebirth of such an iconic machine and the sentimental aspects, of course.

 

Thanks Baz,

I got her running this morning. It fired right up and purred like brand new. I was all good and smiley until I saw fuel leaking from the bottom of the tank. The fuel ran along the fuel line, and on to the coolant overflow bottle. I've isolated the leak to the outlet on the tank where the fuel line attaches. The metal outlet on the tank visibly appears fine, and I couldn't observe any holes or cuts in the fuel line. So, although I know where it's coming from, I couldn't find the leak. After briefly investigating, I noticed once the petcock is closed the leak stops and the engine will run until fuel starvation. Open the petcock, the leak returns. But only while the engine is running. Other than the fuel leak, the motor ran like new and I was happy to hear that V4 sound come out of the pipes after such a long sabbatical.

I'll get back into it again tomorrow or Saturday and figure it out.

 

Not sure how you proceeded to attach your fuel lines but......I've learned the best way to do it is to attach all lines to the tank first......then after the tank is installed....attach them to the fuel pump.

If you do it the opposite way you are trying to work in a very confined space and the clamping portion is a bit tricky.

MUCH easier to clamp the tank fuel line(s) first.....get it nice and snug and secure.......THEN do the fuel pump.

The fuel pump should be pulled off it's bracket to do this. It will still have the rubber sleeve on it - you're just pulling it off it's bracket. Then attach the fuel lines. Much easier this way.

You may already have the line going to the carbs attached, which is fine. But the one coming from the tank - to the filter - and then the pump - that should be done last.

Hoping this helps solve the leak!

 

FYI, I got so frustrated trying to figure out the proper way to do these fuel lines I took advantage of Joe Nelson's (V4 Dreams) fuel line package deal and bought about half a dozen of them for my bikes. Since then I can't tell you have many I have pulled off what was there and replaced with these. Never an issue with these. Cut the correct length and the lines are the proper diameter.

I realize you have the fuel pump modification, so your lengths might be 'slightly' different. But just wanted to share my experiences on the issue of addressing these damn fuel leaks and figuring out the right setup.

No financial affiliation with Joe - just a satisfied and grateful for the help customer.

 

Baz,
Like you, I also reattached the breather line and fuel line to the tank before I put the tank back on the bike. I quickly realized there's really no way to be adjusting clips or clamps once that tank is on.

I used the stock circlips to seal the lines to the inlet ports. It leaked pretty good that way. I emptied the tank, inspected the fuel port on the tank found and found no visible cracks. The fuel line also appeared damage free. I ditched the OEM clamps and used fuel injector clamps to seal the hoses, then re attached them as I did the first time. It still leaked. Further analysis showed it only leaks when the petcock is on and the bike is running. If you turn the petcock to off and let the bike continue to run. the leak stops. That tells me the leak is at the attachment point of the tank/fuel line and being drawn out under vacuum of the fuel pump.

Joe Nelson definitely puts together some good items. He helped me out with obtaining (2) Frankenstein seat bolts a while back. Since then, I've closely followed his maintenance section on his website. I followed his recommended fuel pump modification and it works well. Because of the modification, the length of the lines now differs from stock. I measured twice and cut once, which I thought worked out well with fitment. I guess we'll find out soon.


I've got family in town all this week, so I won't get back to it until next week. I'm confident I'll find the leak. Then onto the air duct attach.

 

I wonder if this has anything to do with your fuel line?

I don't know what else is left.

 

I'm going to use another piece of fuel line when I pull it apart again. I'm leaning towards a problem with that fuel line that I just didn't see.

 

I know you'll get it figured out.

With all the bikes I have been dealing with - I just got tired of having gasoline leak issues with these lines and elected to make an investment to resolve (at least) this aspect of the fuel system.

Here's a set of lines, for example, I just replaced on one of mine and the kits I bought from Joe. One less thing to stress over!

 

Today was a nice quiet Sunday around here, so I decided it was a good day to work on the air duct repair.
I took my time and it took me a little over an hour.

A big thanks to Baz for all the help in getting this repair completed. I really appreciate all of your time and effort. Baz supplied the part and the attachment points. He gave me some great information on how he has done this repair. Also, his suggestion on the Polyvance product was spot on. It' great stuff and really easy to work with. Thanks again, Baz!

Here's a few pics on how the repair went. I'm confident it's a permanent repair.


Using a Dremel and course sanding wheel, I filed down the studs.


Studs ground down. I left the small vertical fins to assist in ling up the new studs. I sanded the area a little better before I started with the cement



I ground down and angled the new studs with the Dremel



New stud, angled to fit


Pre fit before cement



studs cemented in place



cemented in place

 

Wow....NICE work and photos, @Prime Target !

Glad it worked out.

You do much neater work than me too....lol......