Purolator Pure One Filter???

Will be doing my first oil change on the VFR this weekend as I just cracked 200 miles. I know its not called for till 600 but I'll feel better doing it now and again at 600. I have read that the factory oil filters are not the best and seem to remember lots of people liking the Purolator Pure One oil filters. Looking for the part # for a 6th gen. I had this written down somewhere but cant find it any longer.

I plan on changing oil with factory stuff now but will switch to synthetic at the 600 change. Is this ok or is it too soon to switch to synthetic?

 

Check out this LINK. It lists the part numbers you are looking for. At 200 miles I would use regular dino oil. As for synth at 600 miles, IMO you would be fine. A LOT of people wait until you hit the 1K mark but, again IMO, you motor is broken in at 600 miles.

Action

 

The user manual states that break-in is at 300 miles. I wouldn't go with synthetic until at least then. It certainly is not a bad idea to change your mile now to get any foreign material out of there.

On my new '07, I did oil changes at 300 miles then again at 600 miles. I switched to a semi-synthetic at the 300 mile mark which is break-in.

 

About 2.5 inches long.
• Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.

• Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.

• • Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
• Purolator Pure One PL14610
• Carquest 85356
• Carquest Red B4620
• wix 51358



go with the 3.25" filter

 

i was just wondering whats wrong with the factory filters? i just did my oil change recently and used a factory filter, i know its expensive for a filter but i figured since they built the engine they would know best on the filter.

 

I'll put this bluntly ...........

factory filters are over priced garbage !

 

It's there a difference as far as performance goes between the 2.5" and the 3.25" long filters? Or it's just a matter of likes?

 

the 3.25" filter will .....
a) hold a tad more oil
b) has more filter media

 

Make's sense! Thanks for clarifying! :biggrin1:

 

I was considering using the purolator but if you read the filter specs the purolator kicks open the bypass valve at 16 PSI. Though all this is normal for filters. I read the Honda filter bypass valve opens at 8psi. This suposedly allowed for the oil to flow before warmup in order to lube the engine. Bypass valves are there to allow oil to flow in the event of a clogged filter but it looks like Honda is using it to reduce the effects of dry starts. Until I can find out more information, I am going to use the factory filter.

There is so much research on the web regarding OIL and FILTERS. infact the purolator seems to be the best if you are going to go non-factory. Honestly I had already bought the purolator and before I had the chance to use it I read a Honda cut sheet on there filter that changed my mind. I will look and see if I can find the info I am refering to and post.

 

It looks like you are going to have to make up your own mind. Filters and Oil will get many MANY comments.

After my above post. I went to look for more info on filters. My guess is that you can't go TOO wrong with your choices on the market. The OEM is probably fine and the Purolator is premium.

The purolator offers superior filter media and the difference in bypass PSI is about 7 PSI. My guess is that it is not that much considering that the tolerance for these CHEAP valve systems is probably 10%.

Your post has made me re-think using the Purolator.

Long story short. It is your Bike and your wallet.

 

Fill the new filter by hand about 2/3 full of oil before mounting on engine to save dry-start bearing knocks....(only a little drips out)

oil pump must fill the dry filter before any oil is pumped to critical engine bearings.......
or spin engine over on starter alone until oil light goes out before running

 

Has anybody heard anything bad about Fram filters?

 

The bad about the Fram filters I have heard/read is that the media is poorly constructed. The media is not quality and is held together by a cardboard / paper cap. The hypothesis put forward is that the paper has a higher likelihood of collapse and thus clogging the filter. Other filters use a metal cap and offer higher structural integrity.
Also, the anti-drain back gasket is not up to the quality of the other filters on the market.

 

Thanks, bitterpil. It is time for oil change #2, and I was going to get a Fram, as I have used them forever. I'm glad I asked! At one time, they were about the best, but times change...

 

Good thoughts on here. I was out yesterday and stopped at dealer to grab some oil. While I was there and to save myself a trip looking for the Purolator, I grabbed a factory filter. Im looking through the parts section and can find no 10W40. So i go to counter and parts guy tells me that Honda is no longer making or recomending the 10W40 for the bikes and that the 10W30 will lubricate better anyway. Can anybody else back this up? Im guessing that when I change the oil again at 600 I will switch to synthetic and will go to 10W40 for the high summer temps. Why would the factory now say to use 10W30 and not make 10W40?

On another note, I have changed all fluids and filters on my Harley for many years now. Its very simple and usually takes me about 20 minutes total to change the oil. I certainly hope the Honda gets easier. What a pain the butt to get the filter off. May have been because the factory had it on so tight. Anybody have any tricks for removing the filter? I did it by just removing the left lower fairing and loosening the inside fairing, but what a pain. They think all people that work on these things have small hands or what?

 

Find a CAP wrench for your filter size that will fit a ratchet set. You will need about a 6" ratchet extension. This will help you get the filter off easily. You can also try the Pliar type filter wrench. Get some simple green or other degreaser to wipe don the exhaust when you are done replacing the filter.

If you have a T handle Hex wrench it will make taking the lower faring off but not really needed.


I get my 10w40 at the local auto parts store. I buy a case +1 qt which will cover two changes. Most of the time it is kept behind the counter. It will cost about $8.00/qt. If you switch to synthetic (real full syn) you can probably go 5K between changes or twice a year.

 

The 10w40 is a multi-grade oil it is meant to poor or flow like a 10W oil when Cold and poor or flow like a heavy 40W oil when HOT. By steping down to a 10w30 means that you will be getting 30W protection when hot. Not sure you will lose any protection but I wouldn't say it lubricates better. I would guess that friction might increase and thus heat. Just because Honda doesn't make (re-sell) the 10w40 weight doen't mean that the oil isn't available. Castrol made Honda oil anyway.
If you do not live in a particularly cold climate, you can use a 15w40 because you will not need to get down to a 10W poor when cold. Some guys even use a 20w50 supper bike oil.


There are LOTS of opinions on oil and lots of sites on the subject.

 

K&N filters are good too. I like the nut on top so it makes removing the filter a little easier.

 

I have used Honda Pro GN4 20W50 oil for the last 7 years (since purchasing the bike) and the factory oil filter with no issues whatsoever.