Hello everyone. I don't have any rear brake action while pressing down on the foot pedal. I have to pump the pedal several times (like I am priming the system) before there is any reaction from the caliper. I bled the brakes using a mighty vac pump starting with the proportional valve then the outer bleed valve on the caliper. I added 20 hg of vacuum on the outer bleed valve before cracking the bleed valve open and some fluid started seeping into the tube connected to the valve. Has anyone else experienced a bad bleed valve on a caliper before? Are the bleed valves generic on the Nissin calipers or do they have a different needle angle? Maybe I should remove the bleed valve cover and see if the extra clearance helps seal it?
i am going to a Honda dealer to compare the length of the bleed screw that was on the caliper to a new one.
If you get fluid from it when open and it don't leak when you shut it, it's good. You are aware of the linked system on these bikes I hope. You may need to bleed the entire system following the service manual instructions to fully restore you rear brake pedal feel as it also actuates one piston on the LF caliper as well as two of the pistons in the rear caliper.
Just finished bleeding the brakes per the Honda manual. Wow, there was lots of air coming out of the rear caliper front bleed screw. The fluid was very dark too. Changed the fluid out of the rear system and bled all of the calipers following the instructions. Used both the vacuum method in conjunction with pumping the handle brake and pedal brake levers. I even pumped the left front master cylinder that supplies pressure to the rear brakes through the servo proportioning valve. It all works as advertised! Love it. The bubbles and fluid that I saw coming out of the bleed screw was blow back from the bleed fitting adapter to the vacuum line. What a pain in the rear. Old school brake bleeding is a better method on these bikes. Lesson learned.
