1986 VFR RestoMod out of parts

Mocked up the front and rear suspensions to make sure there weren't any fitment issues.
Modified Fox shock fit like a dream, and the swingarm was nowhere near fully extended to fit up all the linkage. Really happy with the length of the shock.


Ready now to disassemble the chassis bits and prep the pieces for paint.


I have all the new fork bushings, seals and new tires. Need to modify the damping rods for the Gold Valves and soon I'll have a rolling chassis.

 

How's your project VFR coming. I've enjoyed reading your thread.

I've had my 86 VFR750 for about 15 yrs (second owner) and threw it on the track a few years ago, finally deciding the track is the better place to go fast.

The Ridge Motorsport Park, super nice track to ride.



Looking forward to hearing a continuation of how your build is coming,

Cheers,

Richard

 

Nice write up! Enjoyed the pictures while waiting for dinner.

 

Progress. Wheels wet sanded, primed, wet sanded again, and primed again.


Quick sand and wipe down. Lay some white and clear. F2 wheels are not fun to paint. New Michelin Radials.


Forks are rebuilt with Gold Valves. Here are the modified damping rods.



Rolling chassis so I can move it. I installed the frame and suspension with the engine on a crate. Now get the bike on the lift and remove the swingarm to install the rear headers.

 

I assume your using auto paint on the rims? How does that hold up to the brake dust and general mess you get on the rear wheel?

 

Been painting wheels for almost 30 years with my technique, no issues cleaning brake dust and chain grime. Finish stays nice through the years. It's actually high quality automotive spray cans.

 

Very interesting. Have you ever talked in detail about how you paint things?

I've never had much luck with spray cans. Why white rims just don't last.

 

It's really just the prep, as is with most things. On the wheels, there's a couple things I do that I've had very good results with.

If the original paint and rims are in good condition, I've found that the Honda paint is usually the best primer. The rims get completely cleaned and degreased. I'll take care of any dings and do some light sanding to rough up the lips and wide part of the wheels. A lot of rims will have some texture on the "spokes" that the paint will adhere to nicely. The final thing I do is a good cleaning with etching wheel cleaner, the stuff made for raw mag wheels. For me, this step has been the key for the paint adhering and being durable. The only reason I primed these F2 wheels is that I did a fair amount of work to them cleaning up some rash and dings and wanted to lay something down on the bare aluminum and do some more wet sanding.

The next step before painting... Install the tires. This may sound weird, but this has worked so good for me. Once mounted, you can fix anything that happened installing the tires and do another good cleaning. If you deflate the tires, they will pull away from the rim just enough to slide painter's tape down a little between the rim and tire.

There are a number of benefits I've found doing it this way. You don't fuck up your freshly painted rims installing the tires. You get the whole life of the tires for the paint to cure and harden before you do have to put tools on them. And, the paint feathers off nicely as it goes from the lip of the rim towards the bead. Nice in the future if the wheel goes on a tire machine, a lot less likely to get damaged with the head of the machine going around. Once re-inflated, the tire expands back out and meets your nice glossy lip. Also all of the bearings and new seals are already installed, so there's another process that you don't have to worry about fucking up the finish. Just peel the tape, bolt on rotors and install on bike.

I've done many sets of rims like this, and have always had great results. One of my 500s I did in 1989, the same paint job still looks great. No flaking though many miles and cleanings, still nice bright white. Used this method on 4 sets of race bike rims (now 5), and multiple tire changes and cleanings later, still good. Also did a set of 1000R rims in black (NOT fun to paint), and they turned out great as well and have been very durable against road debris.

I've gotten pretty good laying down paint with cans and can get a smooth, glossy finish that aids in cleaning and can withstand the use of wheel cleaners made for painted rims to help clean brake dust and chain fling. I used to use PJ1 paint when it was available, that stuff was great for me, but it is no longer being made and my inventory is pretty much used up. I've done quite a bit of stuff on different bikes lately with Duplicolor, and I really like it so far.

So... your results may vary, but this works great for me.

 

More pics of that 50 I need to re paint mine tune this carb correctly haha

 

P.S. your workshop looks a lot like mine (even the same color epoxy!) Except you have many more bikes

 

Slow progress lately. Been working on keeping our other bikes on the road.

But, I did get to spend some quality time with the sand blast cabinet. About 5 hours straight on Saturday, followed by a paint session into the nice afternoon/evening.

All engine covers blasted, cleaned and painted. Also blasted and coated the entire exhaust system.


Now I need to spend some time on the radiator and oil cooler (straightening fins and a light coat of paint), and shoot the subframe. After that, assembly should go (relatively) fast.

Obviously not making any track days this year...

 

They look great! looking back through this thread I thought I had a lot of bikes at 7.... you make me feel like I'm slacking!

 

Awesome pic of the parts. Love it.

 

The paint is metallic and has a slight bronze hue. The inspiration was a color I've seen on some HRC engines.

 

Finally got some more done.

Valves adjusted, new clutch installed and fresh engine covers installed. New o-rings throughout cooling system.

Coated exhaust installed. Subframe and Upper Cowl Bracket sprayed.


Next up is to finish the radiator and oil cooler, then install the rear inner fender and start running the wire harness. Going to get some more assembly done before I start on the brakes and carbs.

 

Nice. Those wheels are so clean and bright they are throwing off the white balance of your pics, that's how you know they came out good hehe

 

Yeh like the Sudco Pipe and all the other "eye-candy" nice clean work shop!! Cheers, love my airlift table btw.

 

When you say o-rings throughout the cooling system, is that rubber o-rings somewhere or metal clamps?

 

The o-rings in the V of the engine on the chrome pipes. There are 4 in the top pipe and one for the curved side pipe.

They are just regular o-rings. I replaced all mine with ones from the local hardware store.

 

Try Partzilla, they had all the rubber parts for my '83 restoration.