1999 vfr 800 running issues

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by vanvfr, Jun 1, 2019.

  1. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    Hi there. Im back to fixing my vfr800 running issues. Decided to strap a gopro and ride around for a bit last night to capture the problem. Heres an example of it happening:



    You can see that the FI light comes on, the revs drop to zero and the power stays on. It only happens when warm and its random. Sometimes im not able to restart the bike at all so I have to call a tow truck. Ive already done the following maintenance:

    -fuel pump replacement (https://vfrworld.com/threads/5th-gen-fuel-pump-recommendation.55570/#post-588144)
    -oil/filter change
    -battery swap
    -checked for any blown fuses
    -valve clearance check
    -checked for burned wires/grounds

    My next step is to read the FI codes and see what the bike is saying. Ive got two questions:

    1. Anyone have a feedback to whats going on
    2. Ive got a hold of a 2001 with a blown motor. I see that some parts arent easily swappable (ecu/harness/no manual choke) unless the whole thing is swapped. Anyone know what else isnt easily swappable?

    Im also thinking if i cant find the problem I will go ahead with swapping the 2001 harness/ecu to the 1999. I would do this because the 1999 has a clean title and is 2 years older so can get collector status sooner.
     
  2. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Hi - you need to run thru your charging system... Its not unusual for funky instruments to be a hint.
    If you dont have a multimeter go buy one....
    2 guesses - either the R/R is out right dying or the stator has a leg going out while hot...
    Anyhoo, its a good idea to upgrade the charging system anyway... the stocker will eat it on you.

    Check out testing -- "The Drill" post 9 --- at least confirm or eliminate the system is good/bad. Then maybe the starter solenoid is another maybe or the orange ground block mess....
    https://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277/page-7#post-484470

    GL
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2019
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  3. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    Already got a voltmeter so good. Also thats what the green light at the top left at the dash is for. Its an active voltmeter so its showing 13.2+ volts when running so gtg. Measured while idle and revving and not too high either. Its got an upgraded reg/rec too.
     
  4. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    So I read the codes and there were a ton - 12,14,1,2,9. Decided to clear them and see what pops up after a ride. Rode to where the parts bike is and it died 4 times on me. Read the code and only 1 popped up again - 14. Injector 3 itself or its wiring problem. Hope the parts are interchangeable so its an easy swap to test.
     
  5. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    The voltage seems low to me..
    Ignore what you have done & do the drill. - hot & cold.
    Post the findings.
     
  6. Kenneth Nødset

    Kenneth Nødset New Member

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    13.2 volt is 0.4 volts over a fullt charged battery in good condition. You green light should be orange I'd say anything below 14 should be inspected and you should be 14.4+ when all is green.

    However it seems that you have an unrelated problem as you get the Fi lamp.
    Dropping the rpm like that could be a trigger problem not counting correctly and ECU shuts down.
    Read the code and post, that is where you should start your search!

    Edit: saw your new post.

    Ohm it at 13-14.4, if ok
    swap injectors around and see if the problem moves with the injector.

    I don't think you would experience engine shut down on a mechanical failure of one of the injectors.

    All your codes could very well be ground issue or ECU fault.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2019
  7. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    One of the first things I checked was the rec/stator. They tested fine and saw no issues and they were upgraded. Had a mechanic double check a while ago too and it was good. Charging system doesnt seem to be the problem. Also it is a healthy 14v when measuring on the bench. I said GREEN = 13.2 + (plus, meaning 13.2 or greater). The light is just a quick way to see if its dipping while riding and if something is seriously wrong.

    The real problem is code 14. Its injector wiring, injector or an ecu fault. Currently have the bike torn apart down to the injector in question. The connector on it was snug and no corrosion so that looks good. Compared it to a known good injector and it acts the same. Also used a motion pro injector cleaner to check its function. Still looks good. Currently testing the rest of the wiring.
     
  8. Kenneth Nødset

    Kenneth Nødset New Member

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    Test it while running with a led diode to see if it looses voltage suddenly. Better yet, put one on each injector and watch.
     
  9. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    Went through the service manual tests for PGM~FI MALFUNCTION INDICATOR 14 BLINKS (NO. 3 INJECTOR). All tests passed. The injector's resistance checked out and I compared it to a known good one. Traced the wiring to the ecu and didnt find a fault. Decided to put the bike back together. Swapped out the suspect injector 3 with a parts bike injector. So far the bike has been working. Getting the power im expecting and rode 260kms yesterday without a FI light/stall.
     
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  10. vanvfr

    vanvfr New Member

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    Looking back the #3 injector having problems makes sense. The bike was hard to start and its kms/tank were about half of what was expected. So for the next person who comes across this thread read the service manual and pay attention to the error codes.
     
  11. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    great result..
     
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