2002 smells rich when running 180deg. and it's 102 in AZ!

My 2002 VFR has a PC III non USB, K&N airfilter and Staintune exhaust.
Today after three years of running like a champ it barely idles when its hot.
When its cooled off at 70 deg. outside it idled much better than it did when I got to work today.
When I came home, once warmed up it would sputter and almost die anytime I pulled the clutch in. When accelrating it runs fine, holding around 5000rpm it ran with a slight stumble that is barely decernable.
It also smells a bit rich.

Is there a chance my PC III is toast?
A friend of mine had a PC II on a TL1000 Suzuki that had to be removed to pass emisions due to running rich. once removed he passed with flying colors.
Is there any way to test a PC III?
Any thoughts are more than welcome.

 

PCIII's have been known, albeit infrequently, to loose their maps. I'm not sure if there is a specific method of testing a non-usb other than putting the bike on a dyno and having it remapped. My bike ran rich after the PCIII was installed using a generic map and wasn't running well in general untill I had it dyno tuned/mapped. One more thing to check if you havn't already, would be your airfilter. Has it been cleaned and oiled recently? If not you may want to start there. I would also make sure that your o2 eliminators are in good working order.

 

The air filter has less than 1000 miles on it.
Do you ohm test the O2 sensor? Look for 330 ohms?
Is there a way I can reset it to a basic map of some sort?
I was thinking about eliminate the PCIII and se if it cures the problem.

 

I grew up in Tucson and it is VERY dusty there and 1,000 miles on a air filter is a lot.
Too rich -not getting enough air. I would just take the filter out and start it up and you will have your answer. Cheap.

 

You don't have to go as far as testing the sensors, just make sure that the eliminators remain properly installed and without any corrosion or the like. If you don't have the o2 elims I would install them before you do anything else, 6 gen ECU's and PCIII's simply don't get along without them and will usually cause any number of minor problems to occur. The fact that your PCIII is a non-usb makes it difficult to change the mapping. If you want to get back to a basic map then I would suggest removing the PCIII as you mentioned. However, returning to the bikes ECU mapping will often lead to a rich mixture when you have an aftermarket exhaust.

 

I removed the PCIII. Got it up to 170 degrees. Seems to idle better. Gonna ride it a few days like that and see how it goes.
Replugged the wires to the O2 sensors too.
Is there a way to reprogram a non USB?

 

Here is a link that offers a couple of differant options. While reading you should also notice another link for Dynojets troubleshooting site. Hopefully it will be of some help. My thought is that if you have the tuner you may as well be using it. They are of great benefit to 6 gens when properly dialed in. Do you know for certain if you have o2 sensor eliminators?


PC III Non Usb question - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org

This link is pretty informative as well.

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/26247/380521.aspx

 

I do have O2 sensor Eliminators.
From what I can tell from the ten minutes of riding the bike sucks without my PCIII.
It runs fine until I'm on n off the gas. It is no where near as crisp or responsive.

 

OK, I'm going to throw this out there for you, as I have been watching this thread since your initial post.

If I had to guess, the problem seems to be that the enrichening circuit of the stock ecm is receiving information from a sensor that is telling it that the engine is still cold and thus it continues to keep dumping fuel as if it was trying to start. It would basically be like the choke was on all the time. My gut feeling is that the wax unit might not be functioning correctly, the fuel pressure regulator might be going, or that a temperature sensor associated with this circuit has an issue, either the sensor itself, or that a wire has come loose, or is compromised.

I have not read through the service manual, but that is my initial diagnoses, based upon your explanations. If it was me, I would start there. I do not believe that it has anything to do with the power commander that you have.

I would be careful to make sure that raw fuel is not making it to the catalytic converter as this will cause it to glow red hot and basically burn itself up.

Just a couple things to think about, as your thread has yet to yield a solution to your problem.

 

What's a wax unit?
I will say the engine and outside temp readings seem to be normal.

 

Does disconnecting the PCIII erase the map program?
do I need and external power supply to reprogram a non USB PCIII?
I also looked up "wax unit" or tried.. its not in the Haynes manual index or technical terms index.

 

No

Where do you live? I would recommend finding the closest dynojet tuning center and go down and make nice with them. They should be able to help you out and explain things to make it an easier and quicker process than trying to do it through a forum. Plus you might make some new friends that could help you out as you progress with your machine.

Download the 6g service manual from this site, it is located in the specifications section here, it will really help you out now, and in the future.

I still stand by my initial thoughts as possibles:

Wax Unit and or starter valves associated with your throttle bodies
Bad ECT Sensor, connector or wire
Fuel Pressure regulator

It is a fueling issue, not ignition, not pc related...that is my opinion. I could very well be dead wrong, but that is where I would start. The fact that you disconnected the PC and you still had issues, tells me something else is causing your bike to act like it is not feeling well.

Get the manual downloaded, read up on these items, go to your nearest dynojet or factory pro tuning center and start getting to know those guys, it will help you exponentially now, and in the future.

 

I searched far and wide. I think you are onto something. On warm up the RPM used to drop when the coolant temp hit about 97 degrees.
I alrealdy removed the PC and it helped but it still seems a bit off at idle.
I'm thinking when I get home tonight ill start it up and listen to the engine and watch the temp. If it doesn't drop ill be on my way to happier times.