4G headlight problem - 1v drop from battery to plug

I am having an issue with my headlights on my 4G.

I have installed an HID kit, which has performed flawlessly for the last two seasons, but now is leaving me in the dark - literally.

First, the left headlight was periodically failing to stay lit, and now no longer lights up. The right one had just started to act up as well, and last night on the ride home, it failed to work - except when I was stopped and idling. As soon as I gave it throttle, my one and only remaining headlight went dark.

I got it home before nightfall, and started some basic electrical troubleshooting, my results are as follows (bike NOT running):
battery voltage: 12.7v
voltage @ LH headlight plug: 11.6v
voltage @ RH headlight plug: 11.77v

Close inspection of the headlight plugs shows that the connections are dull brass in color with a little bit of whitish corrosion present.

It appears as though there is a one volt drop somewhere in the system, and I believe that there is not sufficient voltage to keep the HID ballasts happy.

Can anyone provide some insight or a solution to this?

Thanks!

 

It appears you've already found the problem. Corrosion will have to be cleaned at all connections and kept clean with a little dab of dielectric grease.

:crazy:

 

OK, the connections in the plug are now sparkly clean and I still have the same exact readings.

I also pulled apart the nose of the bike (mirrors/windscreen/dash top) and swapped out the hi/lo relays as they are the same part. No difference.

What now?

 

Did you clean ALL the connections?

 

I've had it all apart and the only place where there was any corrosion was the headlight plugs. The relay connections still looked new, and the HID plugs are weather-pak connectors.

 

You need to work you way backwards checking voltage drop along the way. Check drop from the fuse to the ignition switch to the starter relay. Not a huge drop so may be a combo of connections given the age.

 

It could be ur h.i.d. ballist is going out

 

It could be ur h.i.d. ballist is going out

 

Don't over look the bulbs themselves. An HID bulb can do strange things when failing. Unusual colors one initial ignition, work briefly the go out, one may be a different color than the other, varying intensity, etc. If you have access to a known good bulb, try switching it out.

 

Also the voltage on the output side of the ballast should be very high, even after initial ignition. The output voltage can be high enough that automotive manufactures will specify not testing output voltages. If your input voltage is good then the problem is the ballast or the bulb. With an aftermarket system who's to say what are acceptable specs.

 

I have all along suspected that my problem is the HID units, but was puzzled about the 1V drop from the battery (+) lead to the (+) headlight plug lead that I discovered while troubleshooting.

I have already begun the return/warranty process for the HID kit, as I truly suspect that the LH ballast and/or bulb is totally faulty. The RH bulb still works, it just won't stay illuminated. I'm not about to test the output voltage on the HID's, as it should be in the 20,000-30,000 volt range - I don't care to mess with that!!!

Oddly enough (maybe another piece to the puzzle) - the RH HID will come on only if the bike is OFF or just idling. As soon as I give it gas, it goes out. Makes me suspicious that there is something loose in the ballast that doesn't like the vibrations of the Viffer.

Up until the point where I started having issues with the LH side, the bulbs illuminated simultaneously, warmed up at the same rate, and had a nearly identical color.

Thoughts?

 

Vibration could very well be the culprit. Many HID ballasts also incorporate some type of processor control unit. That processor could very well be unhappy with any vibrations given of by your VFR. Heat management could also be a suspect. Here's a pic incase your curious about what's inside a ballast.

 

In a simple series circuit, the voltage will drop after each resistive component is passed. Corrosion acts as a resistance, which will cause a voltage drop.

This is why Toe Cutter suggested the voltage check, to help determine where the loss is occurring in the circuit.

 

Ballast for $10 alex. Im still going with ballast because yes the ballasts dont like vibration and bikes vibrate more than care

 

I realize that all HID ballasts are different, but in a 'standard' automotive 12v environment, what is the min voltage to keep them happy?

With regards to heat management, my ballasts are located in the vee of my upper frame, where the air intake snorkel used to suck air from and where the PAIR ports used to be:

 

The specs are printed on the ballasts. It looks like 9-18V, but it is hard to read.

 

I do know on some cars they need a relay or something to regulate the power going to the ballast

 

All the specs I found regarding input voltage in an automotive applications are basically "battery or system" voltage. I wouldn't loose to much sleep over you measurements 11.6v & 11.7v. Is a 1v drop from battery to headlight plugs enough of difference to be a problem in 12v circuit? Considering your headlights are most likely individual circuits and measure within a 1/10v of each other. That is pretty close. If you still suspect an abnormal drop as karazy suggested check all your connections it that circuit for more corrosion. Check grounds as well. Any 4th Gen owners know factory specs for voltage at the headlight plug? Any comparison measurements?

With regards to heat management, Honda chose to mount electrical components outside the frame. There could be a million reasons for this. However realistically your ballasts are only inches from a hot motor. Anyones guess at best if there is sufficient airflow there for high voltage electronics to remain cool & not overheat. Keep in mind no aspect of your VFR was ever designed to have a HID lighting system. This includes the entire electrical system.

If your gonna go with another HID setup consider returning the bike to stock for short period time. See if you have any issues with head lights (any electrical) and proceed accordingly. It could have also have been a quality control issue with that particular kit.

 

Your absolutely right. There can also be several control modules or computers involved. Also many newer cars have processor controlled alternators. Meaning voltage is regulated in a manner that can more accurately regulate voltage & minimize fluctuations.

 

Just a follow up to this thread...

I just got e-mail confirmation that DDM is replacing both ballasts free of charge as they both tested as defective. I tested the whole system on my kitchen table directly off the bike battery. Both bulbs worked with the RH ballast, and neither would illuminate with the left ballast. If you tapped on the RH ballast after the bulb lit up, it would go out. So the ballasts were no good.

In the picture above, the ballast on the right hand side actually powered the left bulb and vice versa. The lower connector on the ballast driving the LH bulb was actually rubbing on the top of the carb, possibly making an occasional bad connection (?). It's also worth mentioning that the input voltage on the ballasts is 9v-16v, so 11.7 should get the job done, irregardless of the voltage drop from the battery.

I never did get to the bottom of the voltage drop, but as others have mentioned, it's not huge. I just considered it as a possible culprit.