5th Gen Spark Plugs & Fuel Filter

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by KC-10 FE, Jun 7, 2009.

  1. KC-10 FE

    KC-10 FE New Member

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    My plugs & filter had 13500 miles on them so I figured I would change them.

    Level Of Difficulty: Plugs 2 of 10 & Fuel Filter 5 of 10
    Foul Language Level: PG
    Time Required: 3 Hours For Both Procedures

    Tools Required:
    Honda Maintenance Manual
    1/4" ratchet (3/8" is optional)
    torque wrench
    extensions
    8 & 10 mm sockets
    #2 phillips & #2 shorty phillips
    needle nose & slip joint pliers
    oem spark plug wrench
    oem shock spanner & spanner extension
    rags
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    Ride the bike until your low fuel line is flashing. It's much easier to handle the tank when it has 5 lbs of gas in it as opposed to 35 lbs of gas in it.

    Starting with the plugs, remove one of the fairing lowers, the inner fairing splash panel & seat. I removed the right side since I wanted to check my coolant level.
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    Pull the oil cooler mounting bolts with a 1/4 ratchet, 2" extension & 8mm socket. When the bolts are removed, it can be moved down slightly.
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    Pull the plug boots & insert the OEM Honda spark plug wrench from your tool kit. I cannot stress this enough, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, TRY TO REMOVE THE PLUGS WITH A NORMAL SOCKET. It will not pull the plug out & you will hate life until you get the plug out. Look how much is left sticking out of the head. The spark plug wrench is nearly 6" long. Place a 10 mm socket on the spark plug wrench & pull the plug out.
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    The old plugs don't look too bad. All four had similar deposits.
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    Make sure the new plugs are properly gapped to .8 - .9 mm. All 4 were properly gapped right out of the box. I used the exact same ones that came out, NGK CR9EH-9. Snap a new plug into the spark plug wrench & screw it in. After the washer contacts the head, turn it 1/2 turn & then torque it to 108 in/lbs.
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    Reinstall the plug boots, feeling for the "click". If you don't hear & feel a click, the boots are not seated all the way. Remount the oil cooler & you're done with the front cylinders. At this point, you can replace the fairing & splash panel if you want.
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    Moving to the rear cylinders, since I was going to replace the fuel filter, I removed the tank completely. It is possible to change the rear plugs with out removing the tank, but it's much easier with the tank out of the way.
    For the front, use a 8 mm socket with a 6" extension.
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    Thread one of the 8 mm bolts back in & slip the OEM shock spanner & extension over it, then prop up the tank. The manual says to open the tank before you remove the vent lines.
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    Hit the vent lines with a dab of DW40 & pull them off.
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    Pull the blue & white electrical connectors.
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    Remove the rear tank bolts with a 10 mm socket & 2" extension. Cover the rear of the bike with towels, close the filler cap & flip the tank over.
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    Remove the main fuel line banjo bolt & return line. You will need a 8 mm allen or socket & needle nose pliers. I reinstalled the bolt so I wouldn't lose it or the crush washers. You will get some spillage here, no matter what you try. Dry the fuel up as much as possible since gasoline will eat the foam padding.
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    Remove the tank & set it on padded/covered work area.

    With the tank out of the way, the rear cylinders are a 3 minute job. They are replaced in the same manner as the front. Imagine my surprise when I discovered the #3 cylinder plug was only finger tight.
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    Moving to the fuel tank on my work bench, here's how the new OEM Honda parts are packaged.
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    Remove the fuel pump assembly tank bolts. One of the bolts has the wire loom on it, remember where it was.
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    Wrestle the fuel pump out of the tank. It requires quite a bit of maneuvering.
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    I use a cookie sheet to keep fuel off my work bench. Using needle nose or slip joint, remove the 2 fuel lines from the filter. Use a #2 phillips for the screw. The screw took quite a bit of force & nearly stripped.
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    To remove the filter, pull the lines off & the clamp actually needs to be bent a little. Replace the filter in reverse order of removal.
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    Remove & replace the pump assembly rubber gasket. As long as the little nubs are lined up, it will only go on one way. When you reinstall the new gasket, if the little nubs are not past the notch, they ARE NOT installed correctly. Make sure all 6 nubs are fully seated.
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    This is what the gasket looks like when the rubber nubs are not fully seated.
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    This is the gasket fully seated correctly.
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    Reinstall the fuel pump assembly into the tank. Just like removal, it requires quite a bit of wrestling. Take a close look under the edge of the base plate & make sure the gasket is seated correctly. Torque the bolts to 120 in/lbs.
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    Place the tank, upside down, back on the towels on the rear of the bike. Reinstall the main fuel line & torque it to 192 in/lbs. Replace the fuel return line. It is entirely possible to install the main fuel line backwards which will cause it to not line up properly when you flip the tank back over. Make sure you line it up with the metal "U" on the bottom of the pump. Flip the tank over & prop it up on the shock spanner again. Reinstall the rear tank bolts. Reconnect the electrical plugs & vent lines. Put a death grip on the tank & start the bike to check for leaks. The rear bolt will keep it from falling off, but it's a good idea to hold the tank to prevent bending anything.
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    If you don't see any leaks or smell any fuel, replace everything in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace the forward tank bolts & replace the fairings.

    Ride bike while enjoying life.

    KC-10 FE out...
    :plane: :usa2:
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2009
  2. btay67

    btay67 New Member

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    I'm getting ready to do the same so thanks for the pics and instructions!
     
  3. SierraVFR

    SierraVFR New Member

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    Very Nice tutorial! I am getting ready to install some CR9EHIX-9 in my 94 with 22 K on it.
    Helpful for Sure
     
  4. jimlowe

    jimlowe New Member

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    brilliant!
     
  5. Stubbsy

    Stubbsy New Member

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    excellent! really helpfull just about to do my plugs!!!
     
  6. nookiaz

    nookiaz New Member

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    Thanks for the tip, as I was thinking of doing the plugs change later this spring...
     
  7. RVFR

    RVFR Member

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    What a perfect write up ;) even if it is 8 years old, it's still relevant.
     
  8. shadowhawk100

    shadowhawk100 New Member

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    Oh no... I'm planning on doing this and all the picture are broken :Help: ... Any chance this forum page can be restored?
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Those pic links are probably from Photobucket --- getting that fixed is not gonna happen since PB screwed everyone who was using it and demanded big bucks to continue. - I got caught in that too. -effe them.
    And then KC-10 --- wonder what happened to him?- Seemed to be a good guy...
     
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