84 Clutch problems

The clutch won't disengage. I have replaced the master and slave cylinder along with the hoses. I have bleed out the clutch. I replaced one of the bad connecting wires to the clutch. No matter what I do, the tire still spins. I am at a loss and don't know what else to do. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it?

 

warped clutch plates ?

 

I don't know. How would I be able to tell if the plates are bad?

 

pull them out and place on a flat surface like glass. if the bike has been stored for a long time plates my have stuck together, not a clutch hydraulic problem.

 

Any tricks to getting them off? I have a second 84, it is a parts bike and I tired to part some of that out. I couldn't get the starter idle gear main bolt off.

 

If this is a bike that has been parked up for a long time, maybe the clutch plates are just glued together by old oil.

 

Get it on its wheels with you onboard. With the engine off put it in gear get it moving and let go of the clutch lever quickly .The momentum might break free those plates.

 

Have you recently done an oil change? What kind of oil are you running? I went through this three years ago on my '86.

I rebuilt the clutch twice, bled it, serviced the master and slave, I even remachined the fingers of the clutch basket because I could see grooves worn in the fingers and I was worried the plates were getting stuck in the grooves and not separating.

Nope, none of the above, the princess was just pissed off about the modern synthetic oil I decided to put in. I cleaned the clutch plates off as best as I could, soaked them in Shell Rotella T triple protection and filled the bike with that stuff. Never an issue for 6000+ kms since. Unfortunately it's no longer made, Honda replaced it with Rotella T4 and I've just run out of my triple protection stockpile. Hopefully the T4 plays nice too.

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I was given this bike a year ago. When I got it, the bike didn't run. The battery kept dying and the bike wouldn't shift out of neutral/first. There was a bunch of oil caked on the out side of the engine and around the shifter. I cleaned up the oil as best as I could without taking the engine out. I then tore into the right engine case to find the idle gear not in position. I put a new gasket on then changed the oil using full synthetic. I bought a new battery then had to clean the carbs. I got the bike running. I can shift it but it is more like speed shifting. That is when I bleed the clutch and changed out the master cylinder. I like the bike but keep running into problems. I don't have the money to get it fix by an actual mechanic. I didn't think the type of oil would cause it stick. Is there anything else I should do/check? I don't know much about the bike or fixing it but I am willing to try.

 

If the bike is rideable and you live somewhere that can can just putt around and dont have to stop... get the bike running and rolling then snick into 1st or 2nd. Now ride around with clutch lever pulled in and do a bunch of on / off throttle lunges. The clutch plates will break free.

 

You may possibly have some other issues, but I can tell you for a fact that the kind of oil you run can cause exactly the symptoms you're talking about. Specifically modern synthetics. Go old school. If you can find some Shell Rotella T triple protection that's your best bet. I haven't been out on mine yet since changing to the new T4 but I'll let you know how it goes.

I remember I could get it to idle in neutral, but if I dropped it into first it would immediately lurch forward and stall unless I was giving it throttle.

Don't give up on this little bike. Mine has been a wonderful riding companion. I just blasted down from Ontario to Washington DC for the memorial day weekend and it never missed a beat for 2500kms of everything from stop and go traffic to mountain passes to freeway miles in the tornados that were sweeping through Ohio.

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I’m not familiar with the bike but assume it’s got the oil filler on the right behind the clutch

If you can see the clutch plates through the filler neck get someone to hold the lever in and prise the plates apart with a screwdriver, rotate for each slot in the basket, then try rocking the bike with the lever pulled in...it should free up

If not you have a warped plate, which I doubt

Sticking clutch plates are a trials bikes nemesis

 

Just wanted to come back and update: been running on the Shell Rotella T4 in the vf500 for about a week now, seems to run great! No clutch problems. Might be a good, cheap option for you OP.

Curious to hear if you got this sorted out.

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I really do like the bike. It is fun and has a lot of power. This bike is the style of bike I always wanted. I am just not in a position in life to have two bikes. Specially one that I could get in trouble with. So I am trying to get it in a good enough condition to sell. Maybe in a few years I can get back to this style of bike but maybe in a smaller cc.

 

Just wanted to come back and update what I found out about my issue I was having with this bike. I took the bike out and did some quick stop and go's like you guys suggested first. The bike did get better with not rolling forward as much. I then put the bike back on the center stand to see if the tire would still spin when you pull the clutch. The tire still spun. I was at a loss, so I did some more research. I found out that when the bike is on the center stand and you squeeze the clutch, the tire will still spin at low speeds due to drag in the system. I found that some tire rotation is normal. I am able to stop the tire when I hit the break. The tire will stay stopped until I release the clutch.