94 VFR750 valve check/synch/service...anyone done this themselves?

Hey gang-
I'm about to roll over 50k on the Viffer 750, and was wondering if anyone has done the valve check/synch/service themselves. Looking for the PITA factor of doing it myself. Brakes/clutch fluid and oil are fine, so it would only be the valve check and the synch perhaps.

My first choice would be a lister in SoCal who has done this a few times themselves, and would like to make a few extra bucks doing mine on the side while I watch/help. Your garage or mine...I have tools and have done this many times on my inline fours, but not on the VFR or the VF500. I would have it stripped of plastic/tank and cool when you got here if that were the case to be efficient with your time.

Second choice would be a local shop you like that you've had yours done at before. If so, who (tech's name) did the work?

Thanks for the tips, gang...
-greg in SoCal

 

Question, Was the 32K service done? what was the results? Most of the VFRs I've seen and have heard once the initial set in has taken place very little wear shows up, My 32K service showed no valves out of limits, in fact all where way close to perfect. Gee couldn't have been the oil and changes? one exhaust was like on the edge of needing fooled around with, but really wasn't that off the limit making it worth the trouble to mess with. Like others here that do or had done the 32k valve check, the majority found little or nothing out of limits. My take is the 48K service is a waste of good money unless you hear something that makes it worthy the time and money. That said I only had a very competent shop do mine, yes, way PITA, lots of little things to go over, IMO this is one place you don't need a problem, let the pros do it, if the one that would help or do this is an expert with these motors then of course.

 

I am currently in the process of doing the valve inspect/adjust/carb synch job myself. The job requires a ton of time. I am guessing one long long day would be good or a day in a half over the weekend. My bike just rolled over 22.5K miles and I found that all of my intake valves were within spec (just barely) and that all of my exhaust valves were out of spec. This is to be expected as the exhaust valves get hotter than the intake valves and therefore will stretch more.
I have found that this is a great time to change oil, spark plugs, and coolant as all of these have to be drained or pulled (in the spark plug's case).
I made the mistake of splitting the right side crank case open thinking that the timing mark was in there....it is in fact not the case and now I have to wait 4 days for a new gasket. If you don't do this, then you should be able to do the job in a long day.
I am a big believer in doing everything at least once. I will tell you this, however, after doing this job once, I may pay for the next one. It's a major pain in the ass, but you will gain an appreciation for your bike. Let me know if you have any questions....a good manual should guide you just fine through the process.

 

my 91 had the last service done at 30,000. 40,000 miles later I decided to check them. All were within spec and the cams looked good too. V four motor is pretty much bullet proof. Carb synch on the other hand was a demonic MO-FO. I have specialized carb screwdrivers with fancy bevel gears with right angles and chit and I might has well used them as pry bars. I ended up using a socket with a knurled adapter on the end and burned the chit out of my knuckles. But you know what, when its ur ride your willing to sacrifice a little skin. So all said and done, at 70,000 plus the bike rides as good as it did when I bought it with 5,000 miles. Cheers

 

You know, I don't know. Bought the bike @ 33k. PO had no idea about the last valve adjustment. It's not making any valve train noise that I can hear, but I'd like to make sure and sleep well @ night if I can...

 

My bike wasn't making any noise either (of course when you are drooling over the sweet purr of a gear driven v-4, a lot of other noises become inaudible). I figured that since my first valve interval was at 16K and I was at 22.5K, then I should at least inspect them. Glad I did, as all exhaust valves were out of spec. I realize that the specified gap range is something insanely small (.22-.35mm I think, which is roughly .005 inch). My worst exhaust valve gap was out by about .07mm which is roughly .002in. This is about 40% out of tolerance...I figured I should adjust at this point. Since I didn't have a shim kit I had to take my buckets and shims (do NOT separate) to the shop and exchange them (this is one reason it took me so long to do the job. This took over an hour to do). I am willing to bet that I will have to adjust them one more time until they finally settle in and the gaps stop changing.

 

Oh. I forgot about the dreaded shim swap. My experience with my inline fours, is that lots of folks say that shops will swap shims, but I never found one that did so. Every shop near me insisted I buy shims. Which I had to do. Bastards.

Thinking ahead, those of you that had to buy shims for this bike, did you buy OEM? Or is there an aftermarket supplier? I assume they are not the same as my inline fours....THAT would be far too easy...

 

My valves where never out of tolerance on the unit. I think there is a company called, HotCams - they make kits with the appropriate sized shims. You know, Not on my own ride, but on other peoples bikes I have used a waterstone in a parts washer to shave off some clearance. Follow up with the micrometer and its the same as buying or swapping shims. Of course you use a figure 8 so you dont score up the shim. Just a thought. Coulda swore that the exhaust was .007 and intake was .005 but I might be confusing my Kawasaki. Anyway...Hey WG we got a 12 month riding season and I pick and choose where I wana split my lanes depending if I am gona wait more than one light change. But I am kinda envious though of the Golden State : ) just dont rub my nose in it.

 

Hey, I lived in SoFl for a while...you guys certainly do not have a 12 month riding season. 10 months out of the year it is insanely hot and humid. And it dumps 2" of rain once a day or more. The winters are nice and dry, but the rest of the year it may be bearable if you feel like you GOTTA ride, but it ain't CA. To me, riding a motorcycle in South FL is pure, straight misery 90% of the time.

Oh, and I split lanes there too. Until I got pulled over too many times, and happened to get the same cop. My "I'm from CA...here's my CA license...isn't splitting legal here too?" schtick didn't fly twice with him...

 

Yeh WG things can be pure misery in paradise I guess. Coming from the komi-state of New Joisey and doing maybe 150,000 two wheel miles there, I can tell you that south FL is paradise. I used to ride 12 months up north with an arsenal of winter clothes; electric vest and gloves and multiple socks etc. Worse cold I experierenced was when the condensation inside my helmet froze. I will spare you the details of some other painful parts freezing. Best piece of winter apparel I owned was a Hein Gerricke thermal suit, it had fake fur in the ass and infront of the shins. Warm as toast, better than the Aerostich suit I owned. I have been to California, never road a bike there but you guys probabably have us beat, I ride here and I dont see any bikes except on the weekends. I still dont understand it, oh well I am a two wheeled freak thru and thru. btw we live in a sub-tropical climate so its a bitch or maybe a beach? anywho...CHeeRsS