Average clutch life? 1994 VFR 750

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by NateV8, Jun 12, 2019.

  1. NateV8

    NateV8 New Member

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    Hey guys, I think my 94 vfr clutch is starting to slip. I had it out a few weeks ago and in 3rd around 6.5k rpm I cracked it to wot and it felt and sounded like I hit a bump and it jumped a few hundred rpm quick and then came down a bit but running through 2 gears it felt soft, like it wasn't pulling as hard as it should. a few times I tried it and every time above 6k and 3 gear or higher it just feels soft. I went up +2 teeth on the rear last year.

    It has 108k km, so just over 60k miles. I have no idea how long they are supposed to last but like I said something doesn't feel right when I go WOT now above 6k rpm in 3rd gear and up.
     
  2. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    There really is no set time for life expectancy, in miles or KM's. It's more the operator. The harder you are on them, the quicker you have to replace them. However, they don't last forever. Pull the plates out, frictions and steels, check them to see how flat they are, check the thickness vs. the factory limit specs, and check for signs of overheating. Also, check the free length of the springs vs. the factory limits. Replace whatever doesn't fall within tolerance. It's up to you to decide if you want to replace anything that's still within the service limits. Oil can effect clutch operation but I'm not even going to think about opening that can.
     
  3. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    change fiber plates and springs b4 it gets worse
     
  4. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Hi, over 60k mi sounds quite good to me. Unless it's a second set.

    My '90 has 64k km on the meter and it works fine when I totally let go of the clutch lever with though and start my pulls smoothly. Any abrupt clutch and/or throttle use makes the clutch slip.

    My left hand is getting used to the clutch pull, so I might try a shim under the spring first, before changing the spring and plates. I think the spring should be a tad stronger from factory..

    Riding on the storm
     
  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    If it slips once, it's time to pull it down and inspect it. A fully functional clutch should not slip, at all, ever. Unless the operator is intentionally making it slip or using the wrong oil. Once they start slipping unintentionally, it means something isn't correct. Like I said, pull it apart, perform a visual inspection and measure the service limits of the components. If I was going to go through the effort of tearing it down, I would just buck up and replace it, especially with that many miles.
     
  6. NateV8

    NateV8 New Member

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    What do you mean wrong oil? Like a near end of life clutch only ever subjected to mineral oil gets introduced to full synthetic oil and so it starts to slip as the synthetic just points out the weaknesses faster of the near end of life clutch?

    When I get out this week I'm going to hit the highway and in 5th just go wot from 4k rpm and see if it jumps at all. If it does I will replace everything.

    If it doesn't jump in rpm but starts to feel like it isn't accelerating as hard all of a sudden as it climbs rpm would that be a fuel mixture problem?
     
  7. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    You say you think you have a clutch problem in the your first post, I tell you how to check it. That is the end of my participation. Good luck, I hope you figure out what it is.
     
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  8. bk94si

    bk94si Insider

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    Automobile oil can cause slipping. It has anti-friction additives that can cause problems in motorcycles.
     
  9. COS_VFR

    COS_VFR New Member

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    You should also check the master cylinder to make sure the fluid is good and the return port is not clogged.
     
  10. NateV8

    NateV8 New Member

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    Well thanks for the help with what to check for the clutch, I'll check the master cylinder too. I pumped out the old stuff and put new fluid in this spring but sometimes the clutch feels slow to engage so maybe something is sticking.

    Automobile oil will not cause slipping in a properly working clutch, it just points out faults in a failing clutch but is never the cause, this is old news though.
     
  11. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Some do claim that automobile oils with "fuel conserving", "ESP Formula" and the likes on the labels, have extra friction reducers in them (teflon, silicone, etc.), that can shortly ruin a wet clutch in a bike. I'm not sure, but would't test it out on my bike.

    Automobile oils that don't have these, seem perfectly okay in my view. I'm just using the same Motul bike oil the previous owner used.

    Riding on the storm
     
  12. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Doubt that the fluid has ever been changed, it's almost black. Can we get a repair kit for the main and slave cylinders to swap seals and make them work as new again?

    Riding on the storm
     
  13. bk94si

    bk94si Insider

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    Yes. I just put new seals on mine a few months ago.
     
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  14. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Maybe this is relevant or not, but here goes, with pics.

    I assume your clutch life is greatly affected by the condition and maintenance level of all the accompanying parts. Mine were a rusty mess, so I guess the clutch held up very well, all things considered. See for yourself. (Sorry, clutch is not apart yet, but was starting to slip at 65k km (40500mi).

    Now that the master and slave cylinders have been cleaned up, it might actually hold up just fine. But being so deep in anyhow, a new clutch it is. I guess stock springs and steel plates, with maybe EBC aramid friction plates? A mech recommended adding one extra plate to make it firmer, is this possible, and helpful in some way or useless with new parts?[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
  15. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    A workshop mech recommended to clean and use the original clutch bleeder screw, it is slightly different than brake bleeders that might not seal well.

    Also, i swapped the black mushy brake and clutch reservoir bolts (M4), to nice new stainless steel ones. No more praying and cursing when opening the lid.[​IMG][​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
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  16. NateV8

    NateV8 New Member

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    That's pretty grungy looking.

    The weather has been pretty terrible here for the last month and I've only been out a handful of times. I did get to test the bike in 6th though, from 4k rpm WOT to 10k rpm, did it 3 times in a row and no slipping, pulled fine all the way to 10k. As for the clutch engaging slow, that also may not be a problem because I haven't noticed it now that I've been looking for it. Maybe I'm just crazy and looking for faults as this bike is a 94 with 107k km on it.
     
  17. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    What a nasty looking "slave" totally grundge-ah-fied. :mech:
     
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