Barnett Clutch Install, Now bike dies when changed from Neutral to 1st

***UPDATE! SOLVED!***

I have a 99 VFR and as far as I know it has never had a clutch job done on it. At least not in my ownership.

I just replaced some really REALLY cooked clutch plates with nice Barnett ones that I had soaking in oil for at least 30min before install. Also, the kit included springs and friction plates were also installed.

When I start up the bike, everything is good, the bike only starts in Neutral and the clutch lever feels nice, but i cannot rotate the back tire with the clutch lever held in. Also, when I put the bike into 1st (lever pulled in, kickstand up) from Neutral the bike stalls and the engine cuts out.

As far as I know, the clutch is spinning in its basket because with the handle pulled in i can gently pull the clutch shifter up and feel the basket rotating.


Any ideas? I think i need to do a clutch hydraulic flush job, but if you know of something else, please let me know.

Pic related, its a clutch plate that I took out (second from last) it is supposed to have plating on it.



***UPDATE! SOLVED!***

 

Clutch is obviously not disengaging, what history is there on the bike, have you just got it ?

 

Ive had this bike for a little over 4 years, Ive necver done a clutch job on it until yesterday. I cant tell you when the last time the clutch was changed by the previous owner, he wasnt very forthcoming with maintainence info.

also, the speedo was changed sometime before i got it so even the mileage is a mystery.

 

You should be able to put the bike in gear with the engine off, pull the clutch in and you should be able to roll the bike. Sometimes clutch plates stick when cold and need to be broken loose (hence the usual crunch when 1st is engaged for the first time). However if your clutch is not disengaging at all, then maybe there's an assembly issue?

Is the clutch slave cylinder properly bolted down?

 

Now bike dies when changed from Neutral to 1st ?

Hmm sounds like the kick stand is down. If you are on the bike the moment you put it in gear she dies, yep side stand, or a switch issue

 

but i cannot rotate the back tire with the clutch lever held in. Also, when I put the bike into 1st (lever pulled in, kickstand up) from Neutral the bike stalls and the engine cuts out.

 

I tried to roll the bike in 1st like you suggested and I almost dropped it. In other words, it barely worked. Clutch is still acting the same after rolling 2-3"

As to the assembly, I have an idea that relates to that. When the new clutch springs were installed, I noticed that the new barnett springs were larger than the old springs iI removed. Upon further research, I found out that the old springs were longer than Honda spec.

Old springs: 1.87in
Honda spec: 1.66in
Barnett spec: ???in

Im going to pull the barnetts out and measure them before I reinstall the old springs. Should be done later tonight.

 

stands are both up and sensors work fine, I think the main symptom is the lack of a turnable wheel

Yes, that's what I said. Now what are you saying?

 

I've never really had much luck trying to turn the wheel with it in gear clutch pulled in, just to much friction. In fact even when push starting it takes a bit to get what ever to loosen it's grip. so thats not a surprise to hear you say that. But Hmm ....somethings a miss DoH! I take it you are doing this on the center stand? if so even at an idle it should drop into 1st even though the clutch may or may not work, it should still start spinning the wheel with a clunk.

 

Yes, that's what I said. Now what are you saying?[/QUOTE]

I was referring to post #5 where you had already stated these facts

 

I was referring to post #5 where you had already stated these facts[/QUOTE]

Okay, Gotxha.

 

With my bike in gear and the engine off, I can easily roll the bike with the clutch in once the plates are free.

I doubt the springs are a problem, if they're longer that would just mean the hand pull would be stiffer.


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What do you mean by "once the plates are free"?

 

If the bikes been sitting for any time the plates stick together. It takes a little jolt to break them free. Once free I can easily roll the bike clutch in, in gear.


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Plates should not be stuck together because they have only just been put in. You will have to take some measurements on the push rod in the slave cylinder to see how much travel it is getting and how much clearance there is when the slave cylinder is bolted up to when it makes contact to the rod inside. You really need a vernier to take these measurements

 

I reckon all wet clutch plates will have some stick, just from the cold oil film between them. Once they're moving against each other this mostly disappears.

 

Maybe the stack height of the Barnett frictions+steels is larger than stock, which would cause a problem. Or maybe the clutch hydraulics need a proper bleeding ?

 

UPDATE!

Problem solved!

Barnett friction plates are not all alike. It turns out that one friction plate has a larger opening than the rest, this was not known to me, in fact, I had to wait until Monday to call Barnett and hear them first get very confused and then discovering that I was unaware of this. After they told me that this plate should be in the back deepest in the clutch basket, everything came together easily.

Below is a stack of the plates with the unique plate on top.

 

BB says, RTFM ain't dead yet.