basic oil change for 1993 VFR

I have a 1993 VFR with about 34k miles on it. I bought the bike used @22k miles and have (shamefully) only had the oil changed once at a shop since buying it. I know that it insane and I should have been changing it more often- but it continues to run like brand new... I want to start changing the oil on my own (much more regularly), but I can't figure out specifically which filter part and drain washer part to get. Shopping though amazon there are multiple (different) K&N oil filters that seems to be selling for this bike. As for the drain plug washer nothing really seems to come up at all...

Can anyone recommend a specific oil filter/drain plug washer to buy online for 1993 VFR? I'm having trouble finding a specific filter for this bike on amazon, and no luck at all with drain plug crush washer.

Thanks for any advice!

 

Welcome aboard. Sure others who are closer will be able to help you with the filter (if I can find aftermarket ones out here in darkest Africa, they are readily available). As to the washer, why not just get one from the Honda agents (assuming you have one close) they are dirt cheap. Once you have the old one as a sample, you may be able to hunt around for one. Doesn't seem worth it to me though and I'm a notorious cheapskate.

 

Start by downloading a free copy (PDF) of the 90-93 VFR shop manual. There are several schools of thought on filters. Many choices out there and probably more opinions than filters.

Likely you will get multiple posts associating not changing your oil with some terminal disease, recommendations for type of oil and rambling discourses from dudes who change oil every 250 miles.

Hopefully you check the level once in awhile.

Try a Honda automotive dealer for those crush washers.

 

Welcome aboard! Great Generation Bike...Filter number from Honda is: 15410-MFJ-D01

Can't help you oot with the crush washer, it is a prudent idea to change them though, your friendly dealer will help you oot wit dat though.

Change your earl more frequently, its a sin and its cheap insurance too. Unfortunatly for me, I change mine based on time rather than mileage, at least on that bike...Cheers :vtr2:

 

The drain bolt is an M12 with 27 ft-lb torque value. The washer would be 14 to 16 mm outer diameter and 12 mm inner diam. and 1 to 2 mm thick aluminum or copper. Any auto parts place would have them and anything this size would work.

But you could just re-use the washer for now, the main thing is to get the oil changed.

The washer just acts as a gasket to seal the bolt head and any leakage past the threads. As long as you don't over-tighten the bolt and strip the threads it won't leak if you re-use the washer--just hand tighten the bolt and then go 1/4 turn should be plenty of torque to seal.

 

Thanks for the responses! I am on a mission to get it changed now.

Any thoughts on oil type, regular vs synthetic?

 

Thoughts on oil? As many as angels that can dance on the head of a whatever it was.

Many seem to be using Shell Rotella. I switched from Golden Spectro and no problems. I use a Scotts filter too. A little pricy but all stainless steel and ya just wash it and re use it.

 

Most AutoZones stock the Fram M/C specific oil filter, and as stated above, can match up a crush washer for you. Neither should be a concern.

Oil is a different conversation that people get super heated about, but the only thing you need be concerned with is that the oil is SAE-SM approved (for motorcycle wet clutch packs), and the weight. My local AZ has a motorcycle specific section (and I live in VT, which is the end of the retail road), and any 4-cycle motorcycle oil will be fine.

 

I have been using Motul semi synthetic since I bought the bike back in 06. 100k miles later it still runs like a top. But I am about to change to the Rotella semi synthetic. Simply because it is spec'd for the bike, it is far cheaper, and I can use it in my diesel truck too. The most important thing is to change the oil more often. Cheap insurance for a longer lasting engine. My advise to you is this. Rather than trying to remember when your mileage is due for an oil change, change it every 5,000 miles. This might be longer or shorter than manufacturer's recommendations, but it is close enough. Then change it on the 5K mark, ie 25,000 30,000, 35000, 40,000 and so on, give or take. Far easier to remember when to change oil. I do mine every 10,000 km which is close enough. I think the specs say 12,000 km.

As for the crush washers. If you are putting a lot of miles on your bike and changing the oil very frequently, you may want to get crush washers and faring clips from here for crush washers : Drain Plug Washers - All Washers - Bulk Hardware - Products : Bolt Motorcycle Hardware and here for clips: Nylon Rivets/Plastic Clips - Sport Bike - Products : Bolt Motorcycle Hardware They are one hell of a lot cheaper than to buy from Honda. The fairing clips are a better design too as far as I am concerned. They list the specs on the clips so you need to take a couple measurements of your existing clips to get the correct clips.

 

How much force should he use to reinstall the drain bolt, Randy, and what kind of tool setup works best ?


If the filter is changed i recommend hand-filling it or cranking the engine over with run switch off until the red oil light blinks off before pressing run. That way bearings don't run dry while under higher forces from combustion.

 

I just use an impact driver..LOL

In case you new to this site don't realize, I am joking. You will know when the crush washer starts to compress. That right there is tight enough. Don't ask how I know! Squirrel..........behave!

 

Tool: 17mm 3/8" drive 6-point socket on a 1' handle.

 

I always use the kill switch and pre-fill the oil filter on my Honda at least, Kawasaki, dont have this feature, and I believe other bike companies don't have this set up where the kill switch still will rotate the engine either.

Anyway, when tightening the drain plug, you will feel a subtle slip, (assuming your using a new one, you can get away with re-using if they are'nt deformed.) this is the final torque where the drain plug is tight, don't go beyond this.

 

I understand the theory of filling your filter, or turning over the engine without a start but I also believe there is, by far, sufficient residual oil in the engine to protect it while the new oil makes its way through the system. This only takes like a couple seconds of running. I have never filled my filter or turned cranked the engine first. But on the other hand, I am definitely not saying it is wrong. Mater of fact, it is probably quite correct.

 

OK Randy, in practice you're probably correct, but in theory, i think i got it ! I like to be as gentle as possible with Mr. Honda's magnificent creations. arty2:

On my '86 Radian--just a Yamaha, i know--i can hear a few rod bearing knocks if i don't load the filter first, and i can't begin to say how sick that sound makes me feel !

 

Wow, Radian, a blast from the past! I used to pre-fill some 919 naked bikes when I was wrenching for a Wonda dealer, no matter what I did, pre-fill or NOT, it still knocked! I pre-fill my earl fliters on my Honda almost all the time, 99% time, (When I was trouble shooting an electrical problem, I did'nt, Gawd Forgive ME!!!.)

the red idot light is a low sensor oil light, I could be wrong, the 919 used to knock like a MO-FO no matter what you did! That was a 900CBR motor I believe...Anywhoo, My old shitter bikes run 120 mph minimum every time they go ooT...High Ice-Hunchin :wave:

 

Sorry, during the WW2 efforts,they used to brake in the new air-plane engines DRY!


everything would be burnished quickly, ie fast run in time. No difinitive answer fer sure... Buh Bye

 

You dudes do what you think is right. I always use one of those Canadian made combination sledgehammer/torque wrenches.

 

EH??? :canada:

I have an official torque calibrated elbow validated by the secret society of the Canadian torque/screwdriver police. :wacko:

 

does this constitute a "thread-jacking?"

don't wana be one of them...