Bent Rear Axle

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by pjc, Mar 24, 2008.

  1. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    I thought I had a bent rear rim so today I took off the rear tire. Put the bike on the center stand and put it in gear and still the brake caliper wobbled. It looks as though the axle is bent. What would it take to do this? I cant remember hitting anything. The bike has 7000 miles, could have been this way when I bought it at 3000 miles. The bike never vibrates while riding. Might end up taking it to a dealership... not sure. Any advice?
     


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  2. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Brake caliper wobbled? I'm having a hard time picturing that one. Everything tight? Hmmm....

    MD
     


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  3. VermillionX

    VermillionX New Member

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    Thats what I am thinking. I would take a look and make sure all of the bolts are tightened down on the caliper.
     


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  4. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    Um... Do you mean that the rotor was wobbling? That would indicate a bent hub, something that it EXTREMELY difficult to do. I don't think anything in the back would be considered an "axle", because of the SSSA configuration.

    Maybe Evel Knievel was the previous owner???:usa2:
     


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  5. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    Hopefully I can explain better. The caliper wobbles because the rotor looks as though it is bent at first glance. Rotor is actually straight. Everything is tight, double checked that. Where the rotor bolts to the axle, that looks to be bent. I am calling it an axle, not sure if technically that is what it is. The rotor mounts to a plate that has a shaft and looks like it runs through the SSSA. Hope this makes sense. If it was just a warped rotor it shouldn't make the entire wheel wobble when spinning. When the wheel is not turning you cant move it side to side. There is no play and nothing seems loose. The bearing seem to be good, no grinding noises or anything out of the ordinary.
    I can't imagine how it happened. I haven't hit anything or done anything that I can think of. I guess it could be possible to have been like this since I got it.
    I might just be crazy. Thats a possibility. Hopefully someone else can give me some advice... not on being crazy.
     


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  6. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    I think your rotor is bent. Smack the begees out of it with a "DEAD BLOW" hammer where the bend is. You need to find out exactly what is bent before doing anything, though.
     


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  7. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I'm thinking this may be a "gotta be there" situations. Last gasp ideas from me
    - Pull the rotor off and look around.
    - Check the torque on the monster axle nut on the left side of the bike.

    Still a head stratcher....

    MD
     


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  8. waldrm

    waldrm New Member

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    wobble

    Rear tire may not be beaded properly on the wheel
     


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  9. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    This is a SSSA from a 90-97 bike, please review and let us know what's f'ed up/wobbling:

    [​IMG]
     


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  10. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    As of right now it looks like it might be part number 5. Not the rotor, the other part. The rotor and wheel both wobble, and they are both bolted to the same part. As I find out more I will keep ya'll posted. I was hoping someone else had encountered the same problem before.
     


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  11. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    I can't imagine #5 being bent, unless it has been wrecked. Have you checked the bearings?
     


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  12. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    Is this bike a rebuild??? I'd think that a low-side that ended up with the rear wheel striking a curb might "adjust" that axle for the worse. One of the downsides of a SSSA...

    Take the rotor off and lay it on a piece of glass or otherwise perfectly flat surface to verify that it is not warped. This is so we can rule out the rotor as being the issue.

    I imagine that if part #5 was indeed fuxxored, that you would get a NASTY vibration from the rear brake any time it was applied, or at the very least, a shiny spot on the rotor where it hit the pads on every rotation.

    I would also wager to say that if part #5 was indeed bent, that it's not the only part that will need replacement. I'd think that new rear axle bearings are in your future as well, unless it's just the flange portion of that part that's tweaked.

    We'll need pictures of the following to make a determination:
    rear rotor (both sides)
    rear axle/hub (straight on and in profile)
    Rear rim where you suspect it's bent (probably opposite the wheel weights)
     


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  13. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    VT Viffer... You mentioned just the flanged part being bent. That is what I am thinking it is. I will try and get some pics soon. I am in the middle of building my house and got other jobs lining up so the bike is not number one, unfortunately.
    To take the rotor off, #5 needs to be pulled out? The big nut on the left needs to be removed and then #5 should pull out? That is what I am seeing on the 6th gen.
    Easter Sunday my dad rode behind me and said at low speeds he could see the tire "wobble" (best way to describe). There is no vibration on the bike. My cousin has an 07 RWB and when I ride it, it feels no different then mine. Hopefully I can get a second opinion this week some time. We have a few guys around here that work on bikes, nearest dealership is 70 miles.
     


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  14. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    That's what I am thinking, too (bent flange). I have a hard time believing that the axle itself could have gotten tweaked, considering it's size and construction.

    I think that you might NOT notice that anything was awry with the bike from the seat because of the "rounded" shape of motorcycle tires and the fact that they probably compensated for the wobble naturally. I think it would be a VERY big problem in a high speed lean or even going in a straight line at high speeds. I'd bet the tire is out of round at this point, too, since it's been a while since you got the bike and are just noticing the issue.

    [​IMG]

    link to site: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...r800-interceptor-interceptor-abs-2003/o/m2791

    Above is an 03 Interceptor parts schematic from bikebandit.com. Unfortunately, this is gonna be a relatively expensive repair no matter how you look at it. You will have to replace #4 at the very least ($133.71), and I suspect that maybe a bearing or two might be toast. I would also be concerned that there may be a glazed spot on the rear rotor and that the rear pads might also be negatively impacted by this problem.

    You will need to remove the gigantor nut on the left side of the bike, and then use a dead blow hammer to pound the axle/flange out through the right side of the bike.

    The question still remains, however... HOW DID THIS HAPPEN? If the motorcycle was involved in an accident so severe that the rear axle flange was bent, what else was damaged? What else got replaced? I would take the bike to a reputable Honda shop and have them do a full safety check of the bike.
     


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  15. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    VT Viffer... The flange being bent is what I was kinda thinking the whole time. I guess my choice of wording wasn't the best... my wife will tell you the same thing. I assumed it was part of the axle. Believe it or not (becuase of my inability to describe) I am fairly good at mechanic work. Not very familiar with bikes...yet. Wondering if this is something I should tackle myself.
    Anyone want to donate to the "PJ needs his bike fixed" fund?
     


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  16. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    I guess technically it is part of the axle. My bad for originally suggesting that there is no "axle" on a SSSA bike.

    I wouldn't hesitate to tackle this job myself, but I have a bunch of tools and a dry garage at my disposal.

    You will need to find the mystical 46 mm (1.81 inches, whatever that converts to in SAE) socket to get the Jesus nut off the axle shaft. Probably the assistance of a large friend to sit on the bike while you loosen this nut (tire on the ground), too. You will also need a big ass hammer to pound the axle stub/flange out of the hub.

    You will also need an assortment of Metric hand tools to transfer over all of the usable parts to the new axle/flange assembly. When installing the new part, I would try to get it in without pounding it with a hammer on the flange, to prevent what we're fixing in the first place. There are splines that need to line up on both sides, and I don't know how much of an "interference fit" these parts are. In other words, it may just slide in with a little bearing grease (fingers crossed), or it may need to be pounded into place.

    The benefit to doing this yourself? Knowledge gained, and several hundred dollars' worth of labor $$$ still in your bank account. If I was anywhere near you, I'd offer my assistance.

    Until it's fixed, however, I wouldn't ride it.

    -Matt
     


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  17. pjc

    pjc New Member

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    Dont think I have a 46mm in my arsenal of tools. I worked at a shop where we did car audio, tvs, alarms, etc. I have a good selection of tools and now I build cabinets and do woodwork so more than enough shop area.
    The bike was near flawless when I bought it. It came from a Powerhouse Honda dealership in Houston. The bike shows absolutely no signs of ever being down. Can't imagine how it happened. I might try and get a closer look in the next day or so... first time to get a 46mm. Thanks for your help..

    PJ
     


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  18. eddievalleytrailer

    eddievalleytrailer Member

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    How long have you owned it?? I might take it back if not too long. I'd also run a Carfax Report on it. I'll bet that bike has a story to tell.
     


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  19. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    The biggest socket I've ever owned is a 36mm socket that was for the castle nuts on the drive shafts of a '92 Accord - and I thought that was a rediculous size.

    You may have to order the 46 mm online, and it's most likely a $30 tool. It's also held on there with 190 ft/lbs. of torque. We're talking biblical levels of torque, here. Got an impact gun? :biggrin: If not, a 4 lb. mini-sledge and a BIG lever will move it.
     


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  20. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    The equivalent inch socket is a 1 - 13/16. I bought mine at a local tool house for - yeah around 30 bucks.
    - A pipe over a breaker bar (use 1/2 minimum) will get the sucker off. Have a partner hold the bike still and have it in gear while you work on it.
    - Putting it back on it another story. Off the top of my head the spec is 154 ft-lbs of torque, you need a nasty big torque wrench. Holding the hub still is a lot of fun too. After a lot of choice cuss words and voodoo curses, I had to figure how to the thing still enuff to torque it. After pulling the wheel off, I ended up grabbing a 10 foot long plank I had sitting around and drilled the lug nut hole pattern in it. Then took it and bolted it down with the lug nuts on the hub. Hey that might work! Now I got a long ass lever arm against the floor to fight the biblical level of torque. (sorry :wink: ) It aint going no where. Did the job.

    Good luck,
    MD

    On second thought - theres no reason why the board trick wouldnt work on getting the nut off too.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2008


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