Bulletproof 1993 w/38k miles just sat 2.5yrs now rough..

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by cruiserandmax, Apr 17, 2020.

  1. cruiserandmax

    cruiserandmax New Member

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    I've had a 1993 that has been absolutely bulletproof since new. In 2008 at ~36k miles I stopped using it daily, put it on a tender, and started riding it about every 3-4 weeks. I did that for about 8 years (including changing oil when needed), and it basically held up fine- I would just choke it up each time for a minute or two and then go and it ran fine every time...

    About 3 1/2 years ago I stopped the regular 3-4 week ride and just left it on the tender... I went to start it last week and it cranked fantastic but took a while to actually start with full choke. When it did start is was BARELY firing- very rough... I let it sit choked for 10-15 minutes and it ended up aroun 2000rpm sort of smooth. When I twisted the throttle it sounded like it wanted to die for a second before going past that point and revving up smoothly to any RPM above 3000.. If I turned off the choke it would quit. So I rode it around for about 10 miles at high revs with the choke full on.. At the end of the ride it was idling closer to 2500 with the choke on- but still when I turned off the choke it would die.

    Today I siphoned out as much of the old gas as I could (~3 gallons), added ~5oz of fuel cleaner, topped the tank with 91 octane, got it started and rode it with the choke on for ~30 miles at highway speeds... Afterwards it was idling (fully choked) at closer to 3000rpm. But it STILL would quit if I turned off the choke... Should I continue trying to ride through the new tank of gas and fuel cleaner? Or is there something else I should consider at this point?

    It runs "fine" with full choke, but will not idle without the choke (I can turn off the choke while riding at speed with no problem)..

    I'm thinking this is mainly old gummed up gas ... ?

    What do you think?

    Thanks if you read this far!!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2020
  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    Sounds like you need to clean your carbs. The fuel additive that you have put in the gas probably cannot clean a jet that is completely plugged because it needs to flow through the jet in order to clean it.
     
  3. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    Just want to check - did you try and start it with 3 1/2 year old fuel?

    Anyway, you are pulling the carbs off. The bike is still bulletproof, it’s just badly stored.. fairly easy to fix, dump all the fuel, pull the carbs, I’d ultrasonic clean them though yo may get away with just cleaning the jets.
     
  4. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    You need a full carburetor service, trust me I have a tiny bit of experience with these bikes. If you really wana do it by the book, invest in new carb/insulators (rubber manifolds) and buy a new t-stat with associated o-rings. Your gona have to invest in trusy OEM Honda Carburetor overhaul parts, each carb needs two kits from your trusty honda dealer. I would fire in four new thunder plugs while your at it back ones are easy piesy, fronts you have to undue an 8mm bolt and tilt radiator forward. If you wana do it on the cheap, you may be able to use a heat gun to remove the carburetors and heat them up again when you install them. Probably a good idea to remove them when they are hot. you should also invest in a factory service manual for this make/model.

    Nice to invest in a carburetor synchronizer tool tool. I like the Morgan Carb Tool. Shameless plug but it flat oot works, anywho you should really post pictures of your ride. I have a soft spot for gen3 bikes :mech: btw, I have a 91 with 82,000 miles (almost a one owner bike) and a 93 with 30,000 (bought it with 15,000 miles for $500 in 2014.)
     
  5. hondaman219

    hondaman219 New Member

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    I did my carbs last spring. Ditto to ridevfr. The vfr carbs are not the easiest to work on. I added remote vacuum lines from the intakes. They suck to get to so it makes carb sync easy. I only have to remove the LH mid fairing. The RH lines end at the cutout in the fairing for easy access. You need to have the air system delete or just use the vacuum lines at the air valves. Also honda did not have hose fittings for the rear cylinders. Just a screw plug. Add them before you put the carbs back on.
     
  6. cruiserandmax

    cruiserandmax New Member

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    Thanks guys- Sounds like the carbs are definitely clogged up and in need of a thorough cleaning. Not something I think I can do myself so I’m gonna take it to a shop.

    I appreciate the advice!
     
  7. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    nice to find a shop that has older bikes being worked on, its kind of a feel thing. You could do ok at a dealership if you had an old timer that had a love for v-fours. Probably gona work flat rate and get 25-30 dollars an hour, dealership labour could be $100/hour not cheap. Could be a 4 hour job or more, really the devil is the details, I never rushed carburetor rebuilds as I enjoyed it beyond what I was getting paid.

    If you could find an independent shoppe and actually get to speak to the mechanic thats gona work on your steed, that would be ideal. Its a difficult process to synchronize the carburetors and requires some experience. I love these bikes and have done the carb balances beyond numerous times and its still challenging. Anyway, good luck and pictures of your bike are good btw - PEacE
     
  8. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    Where are you located? Someone here may be able to recomend a shop or mechanic.
     
  9. cruiserandmax

    cruiserandmax New Member

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    I am in San Francisco. I've worked with O'Hanlon in the city here once before- they are independent, been around a long time, are regarded highly and work on older bikes fairly frequently.

    It's possible I could take this on myself- I've done more basic things in the past- I've done break pads, replaced the front brake master cyclinder, and oil changes myself. I've got both the Honda and Clymer manuals.. Just in looking through carburetor work the assembly is very complex- though time is on my side right now.

    Assuming all I really need right now is carb cleaning- is synchronizing something that I need to do? Is it fundamentally part of the disassembly/re-assembly of the carbs? I'd be more inclined to try and tackle this if all I had to worry about was the disassembly, getting gunk out of holes, and re-assembly..

    I will get some pics up of the bike in a bit..

    I do appreciate allthe knowledge here.
     
  10. cruiserandmax

    cruiserandmax New Member

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    Cosmetically I was always partial to the stock screen- but the lip on this one really does help get the air just up enough for me to keep my head from getting wind smashed.
     

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  11. dbuzz77

    dbuzz77 New Member

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    i agree with these guys you should clean your carbs but if you want to try it, use a bunch of seafoam. i had a v45 sabre and it would only run on the choke so i dumped a bunch of seafoam in and let it idle for 30 min and i could take the choke off.
     
  12. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    honestly, if you want to waste time and money then stick it in. Problem you have is getting the seafoam to the areas that need cleaning. Thats why you will need ultrasonic cleaning. Your bike is pretty easy to fix but its one of these tasks that once you have done it is a lot easier.

    Points to note:
    Its a 27 year old bike.
    You are jumping into a rabbit hole.
    you will 'NEED / WANT to replace the carb inlet rubbers
    you will 'NEED / WANT to replace the carb gaskets.
    you will 'NEED / WANT to replace the jets.

    getting the carbs on & off is a really easy job. You could then send them to someone to be fixed - your bike will never have run as good...
     
    skimad4x4 likes this.
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