Can you Go back to dinosaur

I hate to start an oil thread, but I was told by a Winger that once you switch to synthetic oil you cannot go back to Dinosaur oil. Is this true?

 

From All About Motor Oil:

If switching to synthetic doesn't matter, I don't see why switching *FROM* synthetic would matter either.

Edit:

To be completely clear, oil is oil. Synthetic oil lubricates stuff. Dino oil lubricates stuff. Dino oil breaks down faster. Both have additive packages that do stuff. Both lubricate stuff.

 

my understanding of synthetic oil is that it doesn't break down as fast, like godefroi says.
since i switched to synthetic i have yet to top oil up between changes unlike dino oil @ 5-6000 miles oil still looks clean compared to dino oil I'm now stretching oil changes to 6000miles instead of 4000.

 

what about clutch action? I was afraid to switch from regular oil because the manual appeared to say to stay away from anything but. I thought this might be because of the clutch. I know I had a dirt bike once that the clutch only worked well on one type of oil.
The manual says not to use "energy conserving" oil, that would be synthetic right?
first post here btw.

 

I've been back and forth in all of my vehicles. No problems.
If you change your oil religiously at 3K mi, I think you are wasting your money on syn.
That said, it's not that expensive if it gives you some inner peace to do so.

 

Your clutch wants you to stay away from "friction modifiers", which it doesn't like. "Energy Conserving" oil has friction modifiers in it. No motorcycle oil does, and commercial diesel oil doesn't. That's why the Rotella-T synthetic works well.

Seriously, you should read this: All About Motor Oil If you don't know what friction modifiers, additive packages, or "Group III" oil are, you need to read that.

For example, did you know that most "synthetic" oil isn't synthetic at all? There are very few oils that are actually synthetic. AMSOil is one of them, and Rotella-T isn't.

 

That link has graced these pages many times and is a great resource.

I have run Castrol GTX dino NON ENERGY CONSERVING. That is the key for your clutch.

Regularly changed name-brand oil is more important than pedigree IMHO. Frequently changed expensive oil is like throwing money down the reclaim station pipe, IM (less than) HO. I'd like to know who really makes Honda oil, and what the margin increase is for the manufacturer, Honda and the dealer compared to that companies standard label.

I agree that for the price Rotella-T is a great option.

 

my winger buddy uses Amsoil synth and just changes filters every 3000 miles and changes oil and filter every third time
so 0 mi --- oil & filter
3000mi --- filter
6000mi --- filter
90000 mi --- oil & filter
what do ya'll think.

I'm still runnning dinosaurs, cause I'm a chicken. LOL
If it aint broke, don't ficks with it. ( intentional misspelling)

 

What am I missing?
Turn the bike upside down? Quick and odd shaped fingers to plug the inlet and return? Drain and pour back in with a top-off?

9K mi with the same oil!
I'd rather use cheaper oil and change it with every filter.